Do you think my HV battery is on the way out?

You can also recondition batteries and get way more battery health data by manually discharging and recharging each of your tenty-eight 8volt modules via 12v / 50w lightbulbs and rc hobby chargers for recharging... The RC chargers I've worked with are:

HTRC Touch Screen Dual Channel RC car lipo battery Balance Charger Discharger

and

skyrc imax b6ac v2

 

Not familiar with that tester. Be aware it may be just a generic car tester and not be able to pull hybrid codes. We see that alot when people go to an auto parts store here in the states for free diagnostics with a hybrid battery issue and there not able to pull the hybrid codes.

Usually if you have the red triangle of death on the speedometer screen or a car icon we call a turtle here in the upper left corner of the mfd its usually a hybrid battery failure code.

 

Also be aware you can force charge the hybrid battery. Just put the car in D like your going to drive away press on the brake and just gently press the accelerator pedal enough till the engine starts and then hold it there. Don't have to floor it just press gas pedal enough to keep the engine on. So your holding the car in place in d while pressing the gas pedal. Old hot rod days this was called power braking.

You will see on the energy monitor on the mfd the charging direction lines show charge going from the engine to the battery. You can charge up the battery pretty good doing that. Just sit there doing that and after about a minute or so you will see the charge rise. I do that alot when my car gets into purple bars when I'm stuck in traffic with the ac on. Its a common practice.

You have to do this forced charge with all electronics off especially the ac which runs on AC that is converted from battery dc to ac via the inverter. AC Runs on 200 volts 3 phase ac. Big big energy sucker from the battery. Hard to charge battery when there's a big load on it.

Just don't do it if your sitting right behind another car till you get confident in doing it. Because if you let off the brake by mistake the car will zoom zoom.

 

These cars are oil burners after 100k. So you should know the top dimple indicator on the dip stick is full which means only 4 quarts are in the engine. Never let the oil drop below the last dimple which means low on oil. Running any car on low oil could lead to bad engine damage. You should also check how much your car burns oil via the dip stick every 1000-1500 miles. Once it drops below the top dimple fill oil until the oil line returns back to the dimple. Keep track for the next couple thousand miles. Oil burning will increase and it's good know if it changes.

SM-J737T1 ?

 

Move to 40 weight oil it helps with the oil eating.

 

That is not a hard and fast rule. I very much believe it depends on how it was driven and how it was looked after over that 160,000 km. My 2007 has done ~207,000 km and its been 13,000 km since the last service. I've added 1.1 L since then and it is about 0.5 L down now. I probably won't add any more oil as it will be serviced in the next 2,000 km @ 210,000 km.

Although this is in the ballpark, it is not quite accurate. The engine is dry filled with 4.1 L (4.3 US qts, 3.6 Imp. qts), but when doing oil changes with a new filter you add 3.7 L (3.9 US qts, 3.3 Imp. qts) to get it back to the top dimple on the dipstick. At the low dimple mark there is 2.6 L remaining in the sump, so that is not much. I wouldn't recommend running the engine that low.

This is good practice, especially with a new-to-you car.

The amount of oil between the two dimples on the dipstick is 1.5 L, every third is 0.5 L. I have measured and scribed marks on the thirds with a centre point tool, which makes working out the quantity much easier. I tend to let the car drop down to at least 0.5 L before adding oil. I'm comfortable so long as there is oil registered on the dipstick above the lower dimple. If your car is like mine and doesn't use much, filling when it needs 0.5 L is pretty easy.

It has not been established this car uses any significant oil.

I have 2 Prii around the 200,000 km mark and am still using 5W-30 in them. They do use some oil between oil changes (maybe 100 – 110 mL per 1000 KM), but I don't consider them to be oil-burners.

I have used:

• Castrol Edge A3/B4 Full Synthetic Engine Oil - 5W-30, 5 Litres
• Nulon Full Synthetic Long Life Engine Oil - 5W-30 5 Litre
  
• Penrite Enviro+ GF-5 Engine Oil - 5W-30 5 Litre
• Penrite Full Synthetic Engine Oil - 5W-30 6 Litre is also good if on a good special.

The Nulon is available in 20 L and I have just purchased a 20 L bucket for NZ$123 on special.

All of the oils I have mentioned have been fine in my cars and all are good quality. Currently, I am leaning toward the Penrite Enviro+ or the Nulon; it just depends on the deal at the time I'm buying.

If your car does turn out to use a bit of oil, you could do a series of 3 (or 4) x 2,000 km changes using a good engine clean product when doing the oil changes. Just use a cheap SCA Oil Filter - SCO386 (Interchangeable With Ryco Z386) and some Nulon Semi-synthetic 5W-30 or 10W-30. (e. g. this is amazingly cheap at the moment: Nulon SS Advanced Protection - 5W-30 5 Litre.) The oil and filter don't need to be the best on these short changes. The aim here is to clean the oil return passages on the piston, which it seems is the primary cause of oil disappearing. Once you see improvement go back to good oil and a good filter.

Hope that helps.

 

Oh, I should add, if you don't see any improvement after 4 (or so) changes, it is likely that the oil return passages are not sludged up. So you are looking at engine wear being the likely cause.

 

1st you have to go into your phone's Bluetooth settings and pair the new device with pass code 1234 or sometimes 0000

Then you have to make sure you physically turn on bluetooth on your phone. If you let the Dr. Prius app turn on Bluetooth, most phone security settings will not play nice.

If all else fails, make sure you're buying a good OBD2 and not a junk one via this article: Hybrid battery diagnostic and repair tool for Toyota and Lexus

Keep at it... I had to buy and return a few OBD2 devices I bought online before I finally got one that worked.

 

There is something about the Bluetooth implementation on the iPhone. You need to select a Bluetooth dongle from the list in PriusCampers link that is iPhone compatible. Not sure about WiFi, but it seems to be less popular.

 

The picture posted is of a WiFi adapter. BT does not apply. My first adapter was WiFi, and it rarely connected. I returned it for the BluTooth version, which connects every time.