DIY 12V Battery Replacement Add'nl Info

Exactly! I tried to get her to bring it over so I could change it but could not work out the logistics.
She I give her the car every 3 years as usual, so I guess she figured that was just the cost of the gift.
If I had known it needed a battery I would have put a new one in before I gave it to her. Lesson learned for me! R&R the battery at 3 years.

Bisco! No wine, no bear, and limit coffee for me as well as red hot food! ARGH!
I need a robotic body to put this brain in and slip a one zillion terabyte chip in it.

 

bummer dude!

but you're going to live forever

 

Yeah, we're star dust.

I appreciate personally, how hard it is to get daughters to relinquish the car long enough for basic maintenance.

 

Okay so I replaced my 12 volt battery and now I have no audible warnings for my pre-collision. I need to reset the steering sensor to zero point calibration according to this thread... So how do you do get to the steering sensor to get it to zero point? Thank you.

 

Please update your profile with vehicle & location information.

 

The attached might help. Techstream is involved. There's a lot of links (broken) that may also be needed. There's also mention that just driving the vehicle will do the trick, it'll relearn??

Anyway, thanks for the heads-up: when changing 12 bolt battery, it's a good idea to use a memory saver. Only thing, my approach for doing brake work is to disconnect the battery, not sure how viable that is now, with 4th gen.

 

Interesting! Thank you for your input, Mendel Leisk. So, according to that file... "The steering sensor zero point can also be calibrated by driving the vehicle." ?? So now I need to disconnect the battery and reconnect it. Undo and redo the fuel door, unlock the back door and drive in a straight line at 22 MPh for at least 5 seconds or longer. Then eventually the pre collision audible warning will return?

 

Do you have the full manual? I'm not finding various text bits from the above, in the attachment. If you've tracked down the "by driving" method, that's great.

I would really hope a 12 volt battery disconnect doesn't "break" the car, to the point you must have Techstream.

 

Well, I have the full owners manual, but NOT the repair manual. I just retried the method... Wait a few minutes after off, disconnect battery, reconnect battery, open and close fuel lid, unlock rear door and drive in a straight line for at least 5 seconds at 22 MPH.

 

Ah, I see, page 356.

 

Yes, thank you... I see that. I wonder why it says it can be initialized by driving the vehicle straight for 5 seconds at 22 MPH or higher and says nothing about the gas lid or back door unlock. It's like the sonar audio function is turned off, and I can't turn it on. The RED "BRAKE" light comes on if I approach an object too closely but no audible pre warning. Now the lane change warning notification works fine. The car runs fine, just no pre-collision audio notification! And if I drive close to my garbage can for instance, I get no audible warning I may hit it. In other words, I just need the audio turned back on! What do you have to do to change a 12 volt battery? MAN!! Thanks a lot for your help, Mandel Leisk! Much appreciated.

 

I hope this gets sorted out, sounds like a pain, if you need Techstream every time the effing battery is disconnected.

Work around is to use a memory saver, but that shouldn't be.

And for DIY brakework, the usual drill is to disconnect the battery (completely), before pulling off calipers.

Maybe sound it out with dealership service department. They must be experienced with this by now, hopefully something simple works.

 

WOW. So every time you disconnect the battery you need the techstream? Unreal. So is there a special one that only Toyota uses or does your local fix it shop have the software for theirs? Any idea what that would cost at Toyota or can you borrow theirs?? HA HA! Thanks again.

 

Post #4 here (different Toyota vehicle) has a "paperclip" method:

How to do a zero point calibration via Techstream - ClubLexus - Lexus Forum Discussion

Something's not adding up for me: was this a thing in 3rd gen as well, or has the lack of peripheral sensor, radar cruise etcetera left me in blissful darkness, because I've disconnected my battery umpteen times.

Maybe the driving 5 seconds etcetera method should fix it, but something's else is preventing it? I'm stumped, hopefully someone with more brain cells can save the day, lol.

 

There are a ton of conversations here on PC about Techstream. I'd suggest using Google to do the search, though and put priuschat in the search because the forum software's search function leaves much to be desired.

But the simple way is to just use a memory saver. It plugs into the OBDII port and you connect it to a 12V source. Just be aware that the ends of the battery cables will still be live when you take them off the old battery. Don't let them touch anything that would cause undue excitement.

 

Thank you, Jerrymildred. I have an old OBDII scanner but there is no AUX input for a 12v line.

 

You can do a memory saver by hooking up directly at the battery, but safer is to use a jump pack with a special cord: it's an OBDII connector, with just the power pins. I use a Clore Jump-N-Carry 660, and there's such a cable that connects. Has indicator light to confirm good connection:

SOLAR ESA30 OBDII Memory Saver Connector - Clore Blog

Still, that will not resolve an existing issue. Also, if you want the car "comatose", say for brake work, you don't want to be using a memory saver either I think.

I looked a little further in the 2016 Repair Manual, found what I think is the "just by driving" link, mentioned in my previous attachment. As far as I can see, it's echoing the Owner's Manual instruction:

 

FWIW, here's similar 2010 Repair Manual (3rd gen) instruction:

 

ADDENDUM: Okay. you need to be sure that the PARKING ASSIST is in the "ON" position. I have all my tones for the parking assist have returned. Thank you both for your help! Very nice of you guys to chime in! THANK YOU!!

 

While doing the calibration, or just to activate?

That's good to know.