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Dashboard illuminated with too many warning lights

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Ambrosia5, Jan 13, 2016.

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  1. andrewclaus

    andrewclaus Active Member

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    You should not check across the fuse for voltage, as you did for ohms. Pull the fuse and check from each of the two terminals to chassis ground. One side should read battery voltage (12V +/-), the other side should read zero. If both read zero, there's a problem with the wiring harness upstream and that's what we're looking for.
     
    #81 andrewclaus, May 4, 2016
  2. Ambrosia5

    Ambrosia5 Junior Member

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    Oh goodness thank you for telling me! I dont want to mess up anything more than the problems I already have. I will do how you've instructed and post the results.

    Just to be sure

    Red lead to the where the fuse goes (fuse removed of course) and black to the chassis? Should read +/- 12v?
     
    #82 Ambrosia5, May 4, 2016
  3. andrewclaus

    andrewclaus Active Member

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    Yes, that's it. While you're doing that, inspect the fuse and contacts, look for broken and loose contacts as described in an earlier post.
     
    #83 andrewclaus, May 4, 2016
  4. Ambrosia5

    Ambrosia5 Junior Member

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    Ok bo
    I retested the 15A dome and got 0 on both sides. What harness is that connected to? I'll be checking the others now.
     
    #84 Ambrosia5, May 6, 2016
  5. Ambrosia5

    Ambrosia5 Junior Member

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    Just all the other recommended by Patrick Wong except the Power 30A which I cannot find. They all measured 0 on both sides. I find that very odd. I think the power 30A is hidden.
     
    #85 Ambrosia5, May 6, 2016
  6. ericbecky

    ericbecky Hybrid Battery Hero

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    Aha!
    Now we're getting somewhere.
    Dome light is always a good place to start with these types of issues.
     
    #86 ericbecky, May 6, 2016
  7. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    To reiterate, you should have your multimeter set to measure DC voltage, not DC current or AC voltage. The black test lead is connected to body ground. It needs to be connected to unpainted metal, for example one of the nuts on the coil tower behind the main relay/fuse box.

    The car is set to IG-ON, where all instrument panel warning lights are on.

    The red test lead is used to measure for voltage at the fuse socket. When the fuse is removed, you should be able to measure 12V at one of the two fuse socket contacts.

    If you are still getting zero volts at the 15A DOME fuse socket, then you have a serious wiring harness problem. The only other fuse between that point and the 12V battery is the 120A MAIN fuse which is located in the battery positive terminal. If any circuits are working, then that 120A MAIN fuse is OK.
     
    #87 Patrick Wong, May 6, 2016
  8. Ambrosia5

    Ambrosia5 Junior Member

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    Ok I retested. I guess I was using a painted portion for a ground. Now I'm getting 13.99. Does this sound right or no?
     
    #88 Ambrosia5, May 6, 2016
  9. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Yes. Now you need to test the fuse sockets of the other fuses I had identified in post #71, and see whether 12V is not present at any of the sockets for those fuses.

    The 30A PWR fuse is located at the relay/fuse box under the instrument panel, driver's side.
     
    #89 Patrick Wong, May 6, 2016
  10. Ambrosia5

    Ambrosia5 Junior Member

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    7.5A ACC 13.99
    7.5 A ECU-IG 13.97
    10A GAUGE 13.99
    20A FR DOOR 14.00

    I'll get to the 30A in a bit.
     
    #90 Ambrosia5, May 6, 2016
  11. Ambrosia5

    Ambrosia5 Junior Member

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    Ok the 30A was blown. Just replaced it. 13.99v running to it. Windows work. Passenger rear will not roll up. Lol
     
    #91 Ambrosia5, May 7, 2016
  12. Ambrosia5

    Ambrosia5 Junior Member

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    Driver rear window does not operate. Both front windows work good. Fob does not work. I did smell a small electrical burning so I immediately shut off the car.
     
    #92 Ambrosia5, May 7, 2016
  13. Ambrosia5

    Ambrosia5 Junior Member

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    The car blew the second fuse I just put it. So I think much power is overloading it.
     
    #93 Ambrosia5, May 7, 2016
  14. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Excellent troubleshooting work and good observation of symptoms. Now we have some clues that will be helpful.

    Since you say both rear windows do not work, my guess is that the power window master switch has a short which is causing the burning smell; or else the wiring harness that connects the 30A PWR fuse to that switch has a problem.

    See if you can detect the burning smell at the switch, located in the driver's door, inside panel.
     
    #94 Patrick Wong, May 7, 2016
  15. Ambrosia5

    Ambrosia5 Junior Member

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    Thank you for that information I'll be checking that wiring harness in a bit. Also I guess I wasn't clear. The burning smell was coming from the rear part of the car. I checkedthe 12V wiring harness and fusible link and the wiring to the brake box and nothing melting or burning.
     
    #95 Ambrosia5, May 7, 2016
  16. Ambrosia5

    Ambrosia5 Junior Member

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    I opened up the driver door. Noticed an exposed wire. Wrapped it with electrical tape. Cleaned it out. Did the unplug, plug in test. Only three windows work in IG-On mode. Last time I started it it blew the fuse and none but the driver worked. Rear passenger side inside door panel looked good no exposed wires, good connection. Behind the fuse 30A inside dash. Did the same unplug, plug in test. Still only 3 windows work. No exposed wires. Here are some pictures of inside the driver door and behind the fuse location. Also noticed there is wiring with a plug that is capped. Essentially goes to nothing. Any ideas what that could be. 20160507_165314.jpg 20160507_165620_001-1.jpg
     
    #96 Ambrosia5, May 7, 2016
  17. Ambrosia5

    Ambrosia5 Junior Member

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    Ok scary thing happened today. I was driving my car like normal. I smelled smoke again. FROM THE HYBRID BATTERY. I pulled over got my baby out and disconnected all power to it. What do I do. My first instinct is to pull out the upholstery and expose the hybrid battery and check the grounds for the modules. Any thoughts?
     
    #97 Ambrosia5, May 8, 2016
  18. ericbecky

    ericbecky Hybrid Battery Hero

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    OK, so something is clearly wrong in the battery area where you did your work.
    You'll have to dismantle everything again and start checking things.
    I would make sure there is not a high voltage leak/grounding issue before digging around too much back there.
    Then proceed methodically checking every connection. Maybe taking some pictures along the way.
    I had a HV battery done by a dealer mechanic who accidentally forgot to tighten some important connections. It created some orange which damaged other components.
    I've also seen eBay replacement cells which literally blew up, leaving chunks of plastic exploded inside the case. Smoke and residue inside the car.
    Hopefully the problem is self evident as you start to investigate.

    Good luck and post some pics if you want to.
     
    #98 ericbecky, May 8, 2016
  19. Ambrosia5

    Ambrosia5 Junior Member

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    I will start very carefully starting from the back and following the wires. Ill be taking pictures of each step and post.
    Thank you for the confirmation. When I get time I will be carefully checking all connections and grounds. I will post pictures of each step I take. I appreciate your quick response.
     
    #99 Ambrosia5, May 8, 2016
  20. Ambrosia5

    Ambrosia5 Junior Member

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    Ok
    I took the first step
    Ok I took the first step and began with the 12V and surprise surprise this happened. Ground wire snapped 20160509_122734.jpg
     
    #100 Ambrosia5, May 10, 2016
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