Crank generator or other solution for death 12V

hook the positive (red) to positive and the negative (black) on the spare to a ground point on the chassis.

 

correct set up, and you can just press the power button. if it won't go into ready, that means the in place battery is defective and needs to be replaced.

 

But really it IS because the battery is smaller and has less capacity as a "buffer" if the owner makes a mistake.
That is kind of the whole point of all of these 12 V battery discussion threads.

 

Except maybe for difficulty finding an appropriate connection point, it's exactly the same as jumping any vehicle.

 

posted above......
"couple of things you said just doesn't seem to jive with current automotive AGM spec's.
For one, the electrolyte is not "paste".
For another, I'm pretty sure that the pressure relief "valve" is set higher than 2 PSI.
And lastly, yes they can sulphate but won't do it nearly as easily or nearly as bad unless they are REALLY abused."

I don't argue with peoples opinions. I state facts and quote the references to back them up...

regarding pressure relief settings, it's a function of battery case design strength.. up to 10psi for steel encased systems, as low as 1 psi for some plastic cases.. Optima's unique plastic case design allows operation at 7-8psi....
From Exide Absolyte literature on their sealed AGMs..
link to Absolyte® GP literature..
"Safety vent - 3 - 10psi opening pressure, self resealing"
On these large steel cased supported battery systems, (which I have installed many), they can handle higher internal pressure than plastic cased batteries..

The 2 psi, (thought to be so low) would exert 288 lbs of force on a 1 sq foot of battery case surface area.. With the thin walls of most batteries even at this pressure, the walls bulge out, sometimes to failure when abused. Most plastic cased batteries must operate at lower pressure limits, or use a unique case design such as Optima cylindrical cell construction..

http://www.batterysystems.net/training/optima/images/optima/Optima_Sales_Training_Tool.pdf
"Cylindrical cells provide a superior mechanical structure to battery.... permits higher valve pressure, 7-8 psi, compared to flat plate AGM, 1-5 psi
• Flat plate AGM batteries can experience end wall bulge when pressure builds up on
charge resulting in loss of performance"

From Deka http://www.dekabatteries.com/assets/base/1927.pdf
quote from Deka..
"the electrolyte is a highly viscous gelled state" .....

Regarding the electrolyte, you apparently have never seen a sealed VRLA AGM that has ruptured the case. As quoted above, the gell electrolyte has a consistency of peanut butter and will not flow out of the battery even if the case has cracked wide open down the side of the battery exposing the electrolyte. This is one of several characteristics that allow them to be shipped by air freight where as wet cells can not be, unless very special packaging/prep is used.. The Optima batteries are air shippable-UN2800 exempt.

quote from Deka..
"Can continual undercharging harm a VRLA battery?
In many respects, undercharging is as harmful as overcharging. Keeping a battery in an undercharged condition allows the positive grids to corrode and plates to shed, dramatically shorting life"

Please post references for any futher opinions you have.....

 

You are making this much harder than it IS.
Either method will work.
Nothing in the car needs to be disconnected.
If you start it right away, disconnect one jumper lead as soon as you can after the car starts.
I prefer the "let it sit and charge" method because that way you can have everything back to "normal" before starting.[/QUOTE]

 

I have better things to do with my time.

Nothing you said directly refutes anything that I said.......because I was looking for information as much as giving an opinion that was only partly informed.

If you are going to post references, they should match the item under discussion a little better.....AND you should not bend what is said quite so much. As in: The actual electrolyte is NOT a paste but gets a pasty consistency only after being absorbed into the mat. Some automotive AGM batteries are shipped dry and you add the electrolyte and then seal it yourself. It pours like water.

As far as sulphation goes, that becomes a problem for two reasons: Low state of charge, created because a flooded cell battery self discharges at a rate about 8X as fast as and AGM does. Even then it only becomes a critical problem when the new compound accumulates in the bottom of a cell and shorts it out. In an AGM, there is no space for the sulphation to fall and accumulate; thus no real problem.

Facts and knowledge are wonderful things. Knowing what to do with them is even better.

 

Wow, we love talking about batteries!

I'm in the spare battery + jumper cables camp. After dealing with a bad AGM when we first bought the car, I like having a backup battery in the trunk. It's a conventional SLA battery from our previous car, so I can also jump a larger vehicle without risking the Prius electronics. I just give it a top-up charge once in a while.

Why has no one suggested a jumbo pack of long-life AAs and a roll of electrical tape? I can't be the only one curious... (Calm down, I'm mostly joking)

 

Sheesh, couldn't you search the forum before posting? I suggested 8 D cells, like, a year ago....



-Chap

 

What do batteries have to do with Priuses anyway?

But seriously, instead of carrying the spare AGM in the trunk, I should have just grabbed 2 of the spare HV modules off the shelf and carried them for jumping. They would be lighter to carry and a spare in case of HV failure out here on the road, long way from home.

And I'm wondering if, in a pinch, a feller could undo some of the bus from the last 2 modules in the HV and use 2 pieces of barbed wire or horn circuit wire to jump from that to the 12v leads...if the SOC of the HV was up, there'd still be high enough voltage to roll the ICE.

Chap's D cells sounds doable, smart phone battery anyone? Laptop battery would surely work...I've gotta play with this when I get home and see just how few mA will boot the computers..

Or if you broke down in Florida or near a produce store, the Professor's coconut batteries from Gilligan's Island.....(expecting to get censored off Priuschat here any minute now...

 

They give Prius owners a chance to compare the thickness of their references.

 

You're right, Chap, but the best option is probably potato batteries. I bet twenty parallel strings of twelve would do it. Technical questions on a potato battery! | PriusChat

 

If you have a Gen 3 without the solar roof, maybe you could make it up with a small potato plot.

Trouble is, I don't think the potato battery is using the energy collected by the potato. Seems like the energy you get out is what was put in during refining of the copper and zinc and won't be renewed.

-Chap

 

the professor was a genius.

 

RIP

 

he didn't make it back from the island? cannibal's?

 

died today. But now I think I've hijacked the 12 thread....

 

nah primes doesn't mind. he's a great guy.