Common 2G Problems, and What to Do About Them...

She idles aittle high though i think

 

With the car on it should be 14v on your 12v battery changing from the main battery through the inventory may have a open fuse or wire if it still just 12v I would check the white plug just about the 12v battery unplug it and look inside it green clean it or remove it and solder one wire at a time to by pass the plug and you have a water leak if it green on top of you hatch ware the top over laps the back cover with silicone some have been under the back strip a little there spring loaded pull lift.

SM-G965U1 using PriusChat mobile app

 

that's a sign of a bad battery. charging to full and discharging to almost empty. the worse the battery degrades, the more it will fluctuate up and down

 

Battery only goes to about empty AFTER GAS ENGINE DIES... Meaning it dies when it isnt supose to. It says fuel mixture to rich... Battery is fine other wise never hve a problem with it. If this cracrap keeps up with gas engine it may damage it though

 

What happened when you put the Prius in maintenance mode bypassing the battery and hybrid system
Is there 14v
note the 14v still coming from hybrid battery

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

is there movement in the inverter reservoir?

have you had the trouble codes read?

how many miles on her?

 

It reads 14 & i replaced that 120 fuse due to the prongs being loose. I have replaced a lot of parts chasing this problem and still have problem. But the traction battery charges better than ever since changing all the parts i have changed.

 

Over 340000 miles on her. Codes from generic code reader are p0720 and p3190. I honestly think i have a Short or ground issue. My door use to shock me every time i exited vehicle, but no longer does. Dash lights use to be possesed but are fine now. Horn still doesnt work but one day while driving just strted blowing and wouldnt stop for about a minute. And now the gas engine dies... Yippee.. Help

 

would be worth investing in tech stream for proper codes

 

You can get a static discharge as you step out the car given the right conditions. I doubt you have a short or ground issue.

P0720 is not a valid code for the Toyota Gen 2 Prius. It is valid for other Toyota models, so I would try and get your codes read with a code reader that can specifically read Gen 2 Prius.

P1390.

This is probably not much use as it is likely too general and possibly a result of the main problem given that it is telling you the ICE is failing to develop power.

P3190 - Poor Engine Power

DTC Detection Conditions:
Following conditions continue at a fixed engine RPM or a fixed length of time:

• Communication with HV ECU is normal
• Engine RPM is a fixed value or more
• Engine start mode is not active
• Target torque is a fixed value
• Ratio of estimated torque against target torque is less than 20%

Trouble Area

• Air induction system
• Throttle body
• Fuel pressure
• Engine
• Mass Air flow meter
• Out of fuel
• Engine coolant temperature sensor
• Crankshaft position sensor
• Camshaft position sensor
• ECM

Before doing anything else, I'd focus on getting a proper and correct diagnosis.

I feel there are other codes you are not seeing, and until you can read all the codes you are just fumbling around in the dark.

PS, just FYI, most of the battery discussion above is referring to the 12 V aux battery. You are replying about the HV (hybrid vehicle) traction battery. So, you are at crossed purposes.

 

Generic code reader can be worse than nothing because it can lead you down the primrose path and cost a fortune in the long run chasing ghosts. You really need a Prius literate code reader. Techstream is the gold standard and, if you have an old Windows laptop, is also just about the cheapest..

 

Ok i used a bosch this time and it gave me the following codes....

 

The air fuel O2 sensor and the back sensir we're both changed though so I don't understand why it's giving me codes on them but does that help any or is bosch still not good enough of a scanner? I just hate to spend $100 to go have Toyota check it with their scanner.

 

I have a brand new 12v battery in it though

 

Open circuit in main relay 2 is where? And the other thing is pertaining to the skid control right?

 

If you didn't disconnect the 12 V battery or use a scanner to clear the codes, they maybe from that original fault. What happened to the P3190 you reported before? Did that not come up this time? Is the engine running ok now?

Before doing anything else, I'd clear all codes and then see what comes back.

If the P1313 comes back check both ABS relays, primarily No. 2, in the main engine fuse box. The relays are identified using the legend in the fuse box lid and are not to be confused with the ABS MTR relays that are colored blue IIRC. If they check out ok, there are a few other things to check, but the relays are the easy ones.

If the C1253 comes back I'll see if I can find the workup and post here for you. There are 7 sub-codes (or INF codes) associated with that DTC. If you can retrieve the INF code from the freeze frame data, the would help narrow down the problem area.

 

Cleared codes and only ines so far that are back are the abs related. Plus misfiring.
What does 2 trip logic mean

 

Specifically which codes? And if one of them is C1253 , there are 7 sub-codes (or INF or detail codes – these are a 3 digit code in the range 132 - 140) associated with that DTC. If you can retrieve the INF code from the freeze frame data, the would help narrow down the problem area.

In what context?