combination meter repair - DIY

Did this repair, but now my hatch latch isn’t working. No sound when the button is pressed.

Car starts, dash works, all lights working.

I’m thinking I missed a connection somewhere, so I will take it all apart again tomorrow.

Anyone have any other ideas?

 

Whoops, tried it again and it's working now!

 

A missed connection seems likely since that was what you were doing before the hatch release quite working. I wonder if there are other things also not working now, but you haven't noticed yet.

 

Hey Folks,

I had the repair done by a guy from ebay. Got the board back today put everything back in BUT the car isn't working. Pretty much ALL the dash lights are on. When I scanned for the error codes I got back the following:

Trouble Code:
C0300

Permanent DTC:
C3F0A
P117F
P0A11
C3F0A

Pending DTC:
C0700

I must be searching in the wrong part on the internet because I can't find good explanations for the C-Error codes.
Please help. In the meantime I'll take the prius apart again and double check all connections.

Thank for your help in advance,
Chriz

 

Well... Problem solved!

I was just about to take apart the car again I realized that the orange battery disconnect on the traction battery wasn't locked all the way. I locked it fired up the car and lo and behold it starts and has no error codes whatsoever.

Simple as that!

 

I'm glad you figured that out. BTW - there is no reason to be messing with the orange traction battery interlock unless you are doing something with the orange high voltage cabling, or removing the high voltage traction battery.

 

Just did this. Since I had done the MFD a week ago it was a pretty easy go. Thanks to Matt at Texas Hybrid batteries. It came loaded up with the correct mileage and ready to go. Now the dash works and the hatch opens. Ahh, the little things in life.

Thanks to all for the posts. It helped a lot in doing this fix.
B

 

This repair sounds like its needed if the dash panel is dead. My panel is Lit but OD and Speed arent functioning. Is that still a replacement or is there a loose connection somewhere?

I just had a new Transmission installed and a New 12v. My inclination is that there is a loose wire somewhere.

 

Sounds like the harness for the speedo on the transmission was not or is not fully plugged in. I'm surprised the tech that did the work did not check that everything is working properly.

 

IT was working... It worked for the past 3 weeks. I stopped for gas this morning and when I left the gas pump it was not working

 

Because of the recent work, I'd be checking connectors.

 

Hey Phil where is that connector located?

 

Like any other issue with a G2 Prius the codes that the car has logged will tell you exactly whats the issue. You should have a red triangle which is a master caution alarm and maybe a car icon on the mfd. If so you need a OBD code reader. Its pretty much necessary on a old used G2.

I like my VXDIAG Prius OBD code reader. It runs on a laptop via its usb. Real easy to install. There on sale now for $69 and have full Toyota techstream software and work great. It will pull all hybrid trouble codes and tell you whats the issue.

Without the exact codes anything we tell you is supposition. It will save you alot of $$$ and time troubleshooting.

VXDiag VCX NANO for TOYOTA TIS Techstream V14.00.018 WIFI Version

 

any chance you can repost clearer images, please?

 

My $1800 Prius

The loss of the display and various other functions (like not being able to turn the car off) started not that long after I purchased my 2007 Prius in May of 2018. Disconnecting the positive on the 12v battery always did the trick to restore function, but a year later this was becoming more frequent and annoying. I ordered replacement capacitors from DigiKey. The only cap that measured poorly was the surface mount 100uf 16v (the prime suspect), but I replaced them all (10 in total) with stock values other than the 100uf 16v which I replaced with a 220uf 16v. I'd had very little prior experience with surface mount soldering so I watched a couple of YouTube videos and was able to get it done without too much stress. The through hole caps were no problem and the dash disassembly/assembly process was made easier than I thought it might be thanks to a very good YouTube video from Boulder Hybrids.

It's only been a week since that repair – but I'm assuming all is good since all is working well. We'll see.

Next came the hybrid battery failed cell replacement which was a much more serious problem. I'll comment on that elsewhere if warranted.

I average about 700 miles a week and love my Prius which has been getting 50+ mpg combined city/highway (better on the highway) during the warmer months and 46+/- mpg during the cold months in the hilly Pittsburgh area. A real cold spell (extended period of < 20F) drops the mileage closer to 40mpg (I park outdoors). Pump mpg – the display mpg is only approximate, but a constant reminder of how to drive more efficiently.

Cheers

 

Great story. I wonder why you doubled the capacitor value? I would have gone higher on the voltage spec. 16V in a 14.5V system is cutting it close. I have no idea if the circuit it's in runs on 5V, it probably does, in which case 16V cap is more than good enough. But why do they fail? Just a part not lasting or is there really something wrong with the value and that's reason for failure? Just wondering if you know why you went with 220uf or is it just the case of "more is better"?

 

The newer boards come with a 220 uF capacitor. See Matt’s post #34 in this thread.

 

Ah, I see. Thank you.

 

25v 105c caps would have been better long term but new ones will probably outlast the car. Doubling the 100uf cap is recommended... good luck..

 

I just undertook this repair, and wanted to sign up for this forum just to give a huge shout-out to everyone who contributed! I have a bit of electronics experience, but have never worked on surface mount before. I was a bit daunted, but decided to give it a go, and managed to make it work. All you really need is a cheap radio shack soldering iron with the tip filed down to a fine point, a pair of very fine tweezers, and a magnifying glass (preferably mounted above your work surface). I cleaned the blue crud off with alcohol, then peeled up each leg of the IC one at a time to get it off, which seemed to work just fine. Remounting the components is pretty easy, but make real sure each leg of the IC is soldered down, as I put it back together with 2 of them floating free from the board, oops! Its a very small component, and the leads on the back side are sort of hard to see/work on. The caps are easy, and I could definitely see some sort of residue that had leaked from the old ones. A mornings work and like 15 bucks in parts (and shipping) and the car is back in action. I ran into an issue with fuel gauge blinking at me once I put everything back together, but I ran through the procedure for re-calibrating it and now that works too. Hopefully the repair will hold up, but I will post again if it has a relapse this winter.