Cold air Intake? - Not a Joke or Noob question

it would help cool the engine compartment a bit. w/ stock exhaust, its not gonna do much for flow, might even hurt cause the exhaust gases will be hotter and want to expand more. i would not wrap a non SS header, and i'd want to do some research about whether SS headers could be damaged when wrapped.
might want to get a free flowing system before the header. also since the atkinson has reduced intake, it might not need as large of a header as a yaris to get optimum scavenging. stock header might be just fine. but it wouldn't look as cool.

 

<<I wasn't disconnecting the 12v battery during installation which is why the ECU wasn't 'relearning' - since the installation of the new setup, I've only had the CEL come on twice. 1st was time there were 2 codes...MAF and running lean. 2nd reset... only MAF... Now I've driven +30 miles with no CEL!>

You may want to 'clock' the MAF in 45 degree increments to move sensor air pickup in the airstream as it seems as if the airflow profile is not similar to what the MAF sees when it is in its original location under the air box and that built in kink that blocks one half of the passage leading into the MAF.

Long and Short term fuel trims could be indicators of changes resulting from the indexing.

As others have stated a sure way to fix the MAF problems that arise from changing the plumbing is to re-flash the new air flow curve into the ECU and if necessary raise the max A/D count that the ECU is kicking out at.

A different Toyota MAF off a Corolla may be one to try as it could callibrated to flow more air before maxing out the Prius max A/D count.

 

If you notice my previous pictures, you'll see that I moved the MAF location from the top of the pipe tubing to the side. This I suppose would be your 'clocking' - I moved it from 12'oclock to 9'oclock.

I don't know of anyone at this time who has 'Cracked' the Prius ECU...so flashing it as of now isn't an option. I don't even know if the AEM FIC will work but there is an 1NZ-FE tuning shop in LA that really thinks that they can make it work. The Camcon unit most likely worked but has been discontinued.

A different MAF I don't think will make much difference seeing the identical MAF is used in several Toyota cars including the Corolla. The 'maxing out' or 'out of range' comes from the ECU.

Here is a list of Toyota vehicles that use the same MAF part #22204-22010.

 

Thanks for the list of vehicles that use the sensor under discussion. Their seems to be a wide range of engine capacities.
Your list indicates that Toyota uses the same Dual Hot Wire sensor across their engines, the MAF Body Diameter must be different to keep the air flow from exceeding a certain value as the sensor should not exceed +5V.
In addition there is probably a software routine that monitors the MAF to see if it is broken, working in the range of +0.3 to +4.75V.
Maybe you could log the MAF Voltage , filtered or raw would work to see where the max limit is set to when the ECU posts the MAF failed code.
To get the best resolution on the MAF cuve the engine designers like to use as much of the MAF output curve as possible which is done by placing the high limit close to +5V.

Cold Air Intake 'arrangements' have been have been going on over the years for other cars.

On top

 

I appreciate the input and info, I will try to use the Torque app to log the MAF voltage - as of now, its the only way I have to monitor the MAF range. I don't currently have any CELs that simulate MAF out of range, but when I did have that problem it was always the same one - P0103: Mass air flow meter circuit range check (high voltage)

 

I have encountered MAF out of range too high, but on a different car.

Changing the 'air handler' at anytime means that the mass air flow curve will have to get re-plotted and should be reloaded into the ECU.
I do not have that ability to change the curve in the ECU but there are other options. I would have to design a data collection arrangement and build a MAF output Adjuster to re-map the new MAF Curve to match the curve that is presently flashed into the Engine ECU.

 

Has anyone ever used this??

TOMS (FMC) FUEL MAP CONTROLLER‏

Wouldn't help the MAF out of range, but might help the running lean. Other option since hacking the ECU isn't an option as of now, the AEM FIC...

 

Just got my CNC'd MAF housing as well as my 2" Aluminum Mandrel Bent Polished 2.0mm thick tubing - Now just got this welded all together.

 

Alot of posts and discussions about intake air temp. Like I told you in the very beginning you can lower the intake temp about 60 degree's by just bypassing the coolant loop on the throttle body. Disconnect both hoses and install a pex brass barrel and reconnect the hoses. Used to be engine temp now runs around 90 degree's. That almost 100 degree's cooler.

Of course don't do that if you live in a freezing climate.

 

Apologize for not remembering this comment. I looked up this posting: TB Hot water bypass | PriusChat Is this what you mean?

Do you have any pictures of this? I'd appreciate it. I'm a visual learner...as most can prob tell from all my :coolpictures:

Saw this one...do you have more?

 

Are you connecting the Red or the Blue?

 

I think you put the MAP on such a large pipe, which the MAP sensor from the original intake is not calibrated for this big pipe. The MAP sensor is under measuring the actual air flow, so the fuel map is completely wrong.
When the MAP is unplugged, the ECU will go into default mode and try to keep the engine running.

 

Agreed. Thats why I sourced a smaller machined MAF adapter to mount to the Aluminum Mandrel Bent tubing.

 

looks like the blues. i see one of the blue nipples isn't hooked up in his pic. it might work for you cause you don't have winter in socal. you could put a valve in one of the hoses if you lived in a colder place.

 

Current setup is (2) 2.25 aluminum U-shaped tubing hacked into various angles (4) 2.25" silicone couplings (1) 2"-2.25" 90 degree elbow reducer and a hacked up Toyota Yaris cold air intake MAF housing with the I.D. reduced to 2"

The new setup will be a complete Aluminum Mandrel Bent tubing intake with the correct MAF adapter and no Silicone couplings except for the one connecting the intake tube to the intake manifold. I currently have 3 MAF adapters to play with. First I will make a short ram intake, then I plan on welding up the Aluminum Mandrel Bent tubing for a cold air intake based off my current coupled mock-up setup. The third MAF I might sell.

 

Cool. Thanks for the help. What are the reds for then?

 

must be the idle air circuit. looks like its got some insulation over the hose in his pic. i've never been inclined to look at that stuff too close. i sure do like your cai, i trust there will be some hi def pix of the final product. i'm gonna be putting mine back on very soon. i got to change the rf headlight anyway cause its so yellow i can't see (or maybe i'm just 1/2 blind...)

 

Think I found out...

 

Thats my picture of the 2 hose clamps and the tie wrap. Thats my car. Its the hoses in the front. I think its the blues in your picture but I can't see them the pic is cut off. if you look at my picture again you can see the end of the pipe thats missing the hose to the left right under the tps. The other hose is on the other side. Really easy to pull off.
Go to HD in the plumbing/pex aisle and get a brass 3/8 inch barrel and 2 small hose clamps.
Been bypassed for 5 years now.

The throttle body is heated to 190 F when the car is running. And so is the air through it. Without a coolant loop the throttle body stays amazingly cool. And it seems to not have any problem with 35-40F degree nights. Been very cold here the last 2 weeks. I think it would be a problem to drive/start the car at or below freezing.

My initial reason to remove the coolant loop is its not needed in Florida and also wanted to take the heat off the throttle motor. That heat must really cook that motor pretty good. Thats about a $2500 day at the dealer for a new TB when that motor fails.

Car has been to the dealer twice since then and they never said anything about the bypass. There's so little coolant there you don't have to worry about inducing air into the ice coolant loop when you remove the hoses.
Just top it off a little when done.