Cold air Intake? - Not a Joke or Noob question

Now this is the kinda analysis we need to see around here! Thanks for sharing.

 

looks to me like the CAI really isn't doing much after all. stock or modded, the IAT reading is just a few degrees warmer than ambient at lower temps. i wonder if it would make a bigger difference during hot summer driving?

 

How are you logging this? I haven't quite figured out my Torque apps ability for logging. I only see two options for logging, scatter chart like the one below makes it really hard to follow and the line chart only lets u track one thing. I'd like to show MPH, Ambiant Air Temp as well as Intake Temp. Maybe I should ask this in the Gen2 Prius: Custom PIDs for Torque (Android App) with formulas | Page 17 | PriusChat Section...

 

Found some forums where Yaris owners were having the same issue CEL and 'running lean' with some aftermarket intakes - this was resolved by making sure the MAF was seated properly - some added or removed plastic washers to 'raise' - 'lower' the MAF into the housing. I will try this hopefully soon and report back my findings.

 

My current configuration:


Over my stock airbox configuration using the Torque app I'm seeing:
Stock Temp over ambient temp
1-30 mph: +12-20 degrees warmer
+30 mph: +8-15 degrees warmer

Custom/Cold-Air over ambient temp
1-30 mph: +8-14 degrees warmer
+30 mph: +3-7 degrees warmer

I wasn't disconnecting the 12v battery during installation which is why the ECU wasn't 'relearning' - since the installation of the new setup, I've only had the CEL come on twice. 1st was time there were 2 codes...MAF and running lean. 2nd reset... only MAF... Now I've driven +30 miles with no CEL!

 

i hope it stays off! that would be a good sign if the ecu doesn't mind your mods. next step would be a ram-air set up...
so the cai is helping a little bit w/ iat, but we still need to have that drag race.

 

Paper in the car, watching the Scan Gauge and the Prius outside Temps, then a spread sheet at home. Sorry.

 

Good stuff guys....!!!!!

 

So CEL came back several times. So for the weekend I'm back to the stock airbox. It seems to come back more often after reset when I drive 'easy' or when trying to maximize MPG - when I get on the throttle more often, it stays away. Both CELs came back - MAF out of range and Running Lean Bank1 - I am going to try a trick with the MAF adapter that MicroImage out of LA said I should try. Very knowledgeable bunch with the 1NZ.

I will document more of the intake temps once I put the CAI back on, but I've noticed that while driving over +40mph, I rarely saw the intake temp jump 3-6degrees over ambiant while at stoplights and cruising around town temps jump up considerably sometimes as much as 14 degrees. While I have the stock box on (but no resonator) I'll track the temps this way as well. Driving on highway looks obviously to have the most benefit from the CAI...otherwise temps are only 5-10degrees cooler pulling air in the fender over stock intake setup while at lights and slower speeds.

 

If my guess that the Atkinson cycle pukes intake air all the way back out the 'shorty' intake into the atmosphere, then when the intake cam retards to opening nearer bottom dead center less air backflows into the intake manifold.

http://techno-fandom.org/~hobbit/cars/vvt/valvetmg.png

 

if it does push intake air all the way out of the manifold, then the airbox is necessary.

 

Humph...snort. I sure hope not.

Its been done b4 with HKS Power Flow...

and GruppeM

With no mentioned 'CELs' ...don't see why DIY wouldn't work. . . I just gotta figure it out.

 

any info at all w/ those pix?

 

Nah, I wish. This are all posts from the minkara.carview.co.jp site under Prius - parts review - Intake. Google Chrome can only translate so much.

The HKS Super Power Flow - looks to be modified from the echo/vitz/scion when I cross referenced part numbers but only done in Indonesia.
70020-AT009
70020-AT017
70019-AT053
70019-AT058






The GruppeM intake - much easier to find info on - is fairly popular but only in Japan. Neither are very helpful.

 

Newly modified MAF housing...and MAF placement.

No CEL in two days!!

I have spoke to a fabricator about creating a mandrel bent CAI based off my design. (wish i had a TIG welder...hrly TIG welding is expensive!!) Once I can verify that this works, I may have him make several more in case others are interested in doing the same. As of now I have put on close to 100miles in 2 days with no CEL. Intake temps on Freeway (+60mph) stay between +1 - +4 degrees warmer than ambient temp while city/street driving (1-35mph) makes intake temps as high as +14 degrees warmer than ambient but still lower than stock air box temps that creep over +20 degrees at times..

 

Have you tried wrapping that whole shebang against heat? Notice how it's sitting right next to the header? You might see what a little more insulation could do for your temps.

 

You think that will help that much for slower speeds and city driving? I was thinking more that unless I pull from intake air from directly outside (ram air setup...don't plan on cutting holes in the bumper just yet ), I'm always going to get higher temps at idle and slow speeds. I honestly dont feel the tubing heating up so much...its just that the engine is producing enough heat to heat up the entire engine bay and down into the wheel well....once the speeds pick up, the hotter air is carried out bringing in cooler air.

 

Now that I think of it you're better off wrapping / coating the header itself, keeping the engine bay cooler.

After that, I think your best bet is to grab air from outside the car... the wheel well is a good start but a port to the exterior is even better. Can you say hood scoop (or fender scoop)?

 

what header? the exhaust is on the back side of the engine. i don't think a 6 deg difference over stock is worth wrapping over... might be worth wrapping the header if you live in a dry climate. or a SS header might survive wrapping, but mild steel doesn't like it. i wouldn't bother unless i really thought it would be cool as @#$% to have a wrapped SS header on my Prius. i got borla SS headers on my chevelle, but i'm afraid wrapping would ruin them.

i just happened to notice a wrapped SS header kit on ebay for like $90... damn. that might be cool as @#$%...

 

These thoughts considered... when I install the WeaponR or DC header..which ever I end up deciding on, since I live in SoCal (where a majority of the time its dry) would I benefit from wrapping either header? It might help keep the exhaust temps down in the engine bay (I've read as much as -30%) plus because the exhaust heat is kept inside, it should help the flow...Plus if you coat it with HiTemp Silicone it should keep any possible moisture buildup away from damaging the header.

DC is ceramic coated...prob not a good idea to wrap it unless you seal it with Hi-Temp Silicone.
WeaponR is SS - 1NZ header for Yaris wrapped and Sprayed.
.