Cold air Intake? - Not a Joke or Noob question

In short: switching from a restrictive intake and flat filter to a free-flowing, larger diameter cone filter (+3") - and tube unit causes the MAFs to read air mass in different amounts relative to engine speed, which seems to throw off the system, causing timing adjustments that aren't optimized for the new conditions; or something a good tune could straighten out. I'm hoping that my new setup (2.25" up from 2") once complete will be within the current MAFs parameters.

 

Anyone had any experience with the Greddy Emanage? Toyota 1NZ-FE T-21 Plug and Play Harness for the E-manage Ultimate $300...

Or doing something similar... "You clamp the MAF signal slightly above the max stock signal so that the ECU doesn't throw a CEL. When you clamp the MAF, you need another means to measure airflow above the MAF clamp. On the FIC the MAP sensor takes over. How much airflow the stock MAFS can read depends on the diameter of the MAF tube. A larger tube will allow the MAFS to read more airflow but you'll need at least an FIC or Greddy Ultimate to tune for such a change."

 

Doing more reading on MAF clamping using FIC software on this site: microimageonline.com - quite interesting what they have done with the Yaris 1NZ-FE engine!

 

The below - 2"-2.25" coupling with 2.25" MAF adapter and 2.25 conical filter -



FAIL! Car runs, runs with a tiny bit more omph than stock but the CE light comes on - and I get two codes: MAF out of range & Running lean in bank 1. This setup does run, however better than stock airbox and resonator but not better than the stock airbox, stock filter with all oem extra tubing, resonator and carbon filter removed. So far the best option for HP gain and maintaing at least stock MPG is the Stock box and filter with the carbon filter, resonator and extra oem tubing removed.

Still think I need to look into a engine management system of some sort. Something I will have to budget for. These puppies are not cheap.

Meantime, I'm running my old setup: Stock box and filter with the carbon filter, resonator and extra oem tubing removed. Will prob still running some tubing down to the fender to look for some cooler air. TBC....

 

you can try running the elbow and maf adapter in your pic, but add a long tube that will put your filter down behind the headlight. but it is likely that the ice really doesn't need and can't handle a larger diameter intake tube. maybe w/ free flowing exhaust and a reprogrammed ecu.

 

Various posters have been saying this for weeks... but some folks don't care for facts, reasoning, logic, etc. They just want to give away their money.

 

no, they like to tinker and experiment. and maybe money isn't the issue to them. look at the silver lining: after its all said and done, if any of this stuff works, we will know about it. and if none of it works, it won't have cost you a cent. but we's just having fun playing with our cars here, boss.

one more thing. there is no point in using tubing bigger than the throttle blade. the throttle valve dictates the maximum amount of air that can go into the ICE. a larger MAF adapter only causes air velocity drop, and that's not gonna ever be a good thing, even if it doesn't set the CEL. A larger tube before the MAF would be ok as long as it steps down gradually so as not to cause turbulence, which also isn't good. so ideally, you want your intake tubing to not cause any restrictions, turbulence or loss of velocity. an actual CAI might help performance, provided it does not cause any of those 3 things.

 

I agree with the size of the MAF adapter. Problem is most adapters are 2.5" and bigger. I just happened to stumble upon one that was 2.25" thinking that the extra +0.25" over the stock size 2" wouldn't make the ECU throw a conniption fit. Obviously, as its been stated before, sensitive sally reared her ugly head again.

I haven't given up. Although until I can locate a 2" MAF adapter, the Stock box w/ filter and some additional tubing down to the fender may currently be the best option. I have extra aluminum tubing that I plan on fabbing up a real cold air intake hear shortly. I have to take my headlight out this weeknd to finish my headlight vinyl wrap and may have some time to fab up the rest of the cold air intake plumbing. Just haven't' decided on keeping the K&N panel filter or going with a K&N conical filter down in the fender... not sure if there will be much difference in results.

As its been said before also, its my $, my time-and i enjoy doing so. If I can add some piddling R&D and it 'may' benefit others... so be it.

 

i used the stock air box, 2" 90° hoses, and an exhaust elbow welded to a header reducer to put the k&n filter behind the headlight. i don't think using both filters would hurt your flow at all since k&n's will flow way more than the ICE can use. i actually kept the stock filter which is probably much more restrictive, and the carbon filter. so the k&n was really only to keep dirt out of my CAI. perhaps that's why i don't believe i got any noticable performance gain. i may remove the stock filter when i reinstall the CAI.
i wanted aluminum, but i'm too cheap. make sure you secure the tubing so that it doesn't touch your A/C line. you may have noticed its in the way.

 

I would definitely only use one filter, i just don't know which would be more beneficial, the cone down in the fender running up the to airbox w/ all filters removed OR running some tubing from the fender up 2 the airbox with a k&n panel filter and no carbon filter.

And yes, the A/C line is smack dab in the way... PITA snaking the tubing around this.

 

I'm trying to save you guys a few headaches by pointing out when you try to defy physics. As I said earlier, you can't carry 10 gallons of sh*t in a 5 gallon hat... no matter how much you "thumbs down" me.

BTW, I have modded other cars plenty...

 

odd... sh!t maybe... but maybe sugar!? I've heard of some women putting 10lbs of sugar in a 5lb bag.

... and don't get me started with the pictures. LOL

 

don't you see that for some folks, trying to defy the laws of physics is fun? its only a headache if somthin' blows up.

the reason i would use the cone down behind the headlight is to keep road crud from getting into your CAI. if the ice does actually draw any real vacuum, it may suck up crud or water. you know the sticky crud that gets on the lower part of your car? or if you've ever cleaned your motorcycle, you'd notice it. i wouldn't want to suck that stuff into my airbox. i'd feel comfortable w/ the cone and k&n panel filter. they shouldn't restrict much.

maestro, where were you when i decided to run a reverse ground cam in my chevy 350? you sure could have saved me some time, money and headaches then.

 

More tinkering.

Used the silicone 2"-2.25" 90 degree elbow coupling w/ the 2" side trimmed about .5" shorter from my last failed intake. The below picture shows the coupling untrimmed.

I bought a U shaped 2.25 aluminum intercooler tubing,

cut ithe U-shape in half - 1st part connects to trimmed 90 degree elbow, 2nd part of the aluminum tubing gets another 1" trimmed off mendrel bend end making it more of a 75 degree angle and attaches to the 2.25" conical filter. The two pieces are connected with a 2.25" Silicone coupler.

Pieces pre-assembled before installing in the car.


Installed

You can see my HID Ballast mount for my 3000k Fog-lights in the above pix. As is they are directly below the OEM HID ballast on the bottom of my headlight assembly.



Just clears the AC line and barely fits under the headlight assembly. Any bigger than 2.25 wouldn't have fit.


Will update my results after I get at least one tank of gas used up with the new setup. Already less noisey than just having the factory snorkel tubes and what not removed. And Torque is reporting Air intake temps seem to be reading at LEAST 5 degrees cooler than prior to installing when I just had the air box pulling air directly from the engine bay while at idle and much more while driving.

$12 - 2"-2.25" Silicone 90 degree elbow reducer
$22 - U - shape aluminum intercooler tubing
$6 - 2.25" straight coupler
$10 - Conical Air Filter

So far $50 spend for some fun - not sure haven't evaluated the benefits or losses yet.

 

is this "Torque" your talking about reading the actual IAT sensor? is that sensor integrated into the maf or is there a separate air temp sensor in the manifold? i'd like to see what kind of temp drop you get at 60mph. i'm about an RCH from re-installing my CAI. but i want to race dave 1st.

 

I'm using the Torque App on my Droid using the custom PIDs from usbseawolf2000 file. Not exactly sure how it was configured but I believe the MAF also reads the IAT on the G2 but I'm not for certain. I'll do some more looking into that.

 

Decided to track the air temp of the new setup while driving up the I-5 N this morning. The Prius's outside-temp reading bounced around from 43-48 degrees around 6:45am. I was using the CC at 70mph and I could watch the Torque reading for the intake temp always stay around 3-5 degrees warmer from what the car was detecting. In fact I could watch the Torque app and if the intake temp would change +/- at all within a few seconds the Cars external temp gauge would adjust as well always staying 3-5 degrees. All the way up the coast never getting warmer than +5 degrees of the cars external temp reading.

 

On my stock Gen2