Cold air Intake? - Not a Joke or Noob question

Went on that site an read the review: "Still checking to see if my mileage increases".

Priceless.

 

and it looks cool. until you chip the ceramic...
i had my bike pipes black ceramic coated, looks great and really works. the pipes don't get anywhere near as hot as they used to.

 

VAB Sports Throttle



Not worth +$800... looks like I'll need a new dremel and bits...

 

Nice. How much is that TB?

 

~57,750 yen or close to $730USD directly from VAB w/o shipping for the ZVW30 (Gen3)

or from http://autostyle-usa.com $820

Nothing for NHW20 (Gen2)

 

So here's my dilemma...I'm getting the dreaded 'Check Engine' light when i am using the below setup. Seems to be a voltage issue. Getting codes P3190 and P3191 with my 'Torque' app ... as soon as I swap back for stock air box and clear codes...car runs normal. Using the same MAF for both setups, so I know the MAF or throttle body is not an issue. Do I need to ground the intake!?! Add a resistor somewhere!? Could it be the material that the MAF is housed in vs the Stock air box housing?



Before I started with the above setup, I've already noticed a 2-3 mpg gain just by removing the entire snorkle/silencer from the airbox, I can only hope that it will improve more once I figure out this issue. Once I have the voltage corrected, I'll run the intake tubing down into the lower wheel well under the passenger headlight.

 

Grounding the piece the MAF is in sounds like a good start.

I found this with Google
"3191 Engine (aka ICE) does not start. 3090 Poor engine power"
that could be from a non functioning MAF.

You 2-3 mpg gain is probably placebo effect.

 

So I couldn't sleep... so...

I'll try that next...

Would normally agree with you, but I looked up the codes for both p3191 and p3190 and found a bunch of troubleshooting PDFs but nothing explains why I have no problems with OEM but once I switch over to my aftermarket intake... codes! I'm using the same MAF, just swapping housing from the DIY intake from the OEM Airbox. MAF works fine in the stock housing...


So I finally ripped out the intake and tried something else...I removed the oem airbox filter and attached the cone filter. Wth...This works just fine...??



And how does this not work!?

Again, I'd agree with you, but I'm tracking this with the Torque app and also watching my daily commute to work. Same drive, same temp (usually here in SD), same traffic... and I'm noticing +2-3mpg gain.

 

On Page One (remember page one?) I claimed that too small a volume intake tract was going to be a problem.

Cold air Intake? - Not a Joke or Noob question | PriusChat

Sure looks to me when you add volume, it works better.

 

Currently I am 2" to 3" 3-Ply Silicone Hose Elbow Coupler for the 3" intake.

 

Your throwing codes because your delivering alot more air than the fuel map was designed to utilize. It puts the MAF out of range and when that happens the car is put in limp mode. When you put the restricting air cleaner box back on it fixes that.
Add if you think your getting any mileage gain your nuts. Don't you think the japs agonized over every tiny gain
to the tune of millions of dollars of R & D?

2-3 mpg's is huge and near impossible. They tried. Performance and mpg gain are exclusive. You can get a performance gain with a cai and a bigger tb. Put it on the dyno and adjust fuel map for max power.
This of course pus your mileage in the dumper.

 

Can I in any way shape or form modify the fuel map or correct the MAF to the correct range? Sorry, I'm a lil new to this...

Call it near impossible and my butt dynometer may lie, but both the Car's MPG tracker and the Torque app tracker show an +MPG. Small it may be, but the numbers don't lie. I'll keep this up for a couple weeks and update my results.

 

Oddly enough the Car will run without the MAF plugged in with the below setup:



but in a SERIOUS limp mode - never full power - pulsing the throttle. I ran this around the block a few times then while the car was running plugged the MAF back in. I hopped in the car and laid on the Gas... The car SURGED forward with the intake whistling with suction and a throaty roar (as much as u can imagine from the lil 1.5). The lil Prius really came to life with more 'get-up-and-go' than I had ever felt. I had only roared for about a 1/2 block b4 the car fell flat on its face...and completely shut off. I unplugged the MAF and limped home. Once I got home I put the Stock airbox on with the added conical airfilter, plugged in the MAF, cleared the codes and the car runs great.



I really would like to figure out the Fuel Mapping or MAF being out of range. Regardless of supposedly not getting better MPG, I thought the increase in HP was quite impressive.

 

The intake was definitely louder with the snorkel and resonator removed...

Any pics of your exhaust!?

 

I'm not 100% familiar with the feedback loop on the Prius, I'm more familiar with that on 80's cars, so I could be off...

...but when your air/fuel mixture has gone far too rich, you could be heating your catalytic converter to dangerous temperatures.

If the car is limping, it's not a good idea to drive it, even around the block. Get yourself a fire extinguisher!

 

hmm. Never thought i might be heating up the Cat. I guess IF i ever do that again, the Torque app does monitor O2 sensor temps... i could watch them if I had to and have one hand on a fire extinguisher. lol

 

The first video that you say is struggling is not bad hill at all. If your Prius is struggling to make that you have big problems. And it looked like the car flew up the hill anyway. Plz turn off the music and make another video so we can hear engine sounds.