Code P0A80 + P3013 All Battery Cells reading good! Any thoughts?

I think the proper answer is that the car could die & leave you stranded at any time. Y
ou cannot predict how long it will last, but usually it dies at the most inconvenient time.

If you are DIY you can get a kit of new cells for $1600 delivered that, when assembled, basically gets you a new battery pack.
@2k1Toaster 's link is in my signature.

 

It will last as long as it lasts. Nobody can tell how long that will be. I think several posters have gone some time with a problem but you would have to search around to confirm that.

 

The thing is I just don't want to do more damage and cost me more money if I can help it. I already plan to replace the entire hybrid battery pack when I get the time and money.

 

The systems are designed to shut down to prevent problems, but not a very smart system so while it's not recommended, you can clear the codes by disconnecting the battery for 5 minutes and then get some miles in before the car remembers the issue and starts shutting down, which we often refer to as "limp mode" where the engine has hardly any power and the hybrid system has shut down completely. Of course once you have a shutdown hybrid system the engine can't be started until you clear everything again. Ideally, if you have a friend with more than one car maybe you can do something they'd value in trade for borrowing one of their cars till payday?

Also, if you're in the Seattle area, I live nearby and might be able to help you out with a loaner pack?

 

There's a lot to unpack in that question... Looks like you already know how to pull the pack and check voltages... First setup a spread sheet of your initial numbers, then pull the pack and get the next set of voltage numbers for comparison. Then attach a 12v/55w bulb (headlight bulb if it's not LED) to a module for 2 minutes and record the amount the voltage drop was. Usually the bad module will drop much lower in voltage than the others. Also once a module is bad it can be stored through reconditioning. But reconditioning is a good way to find a weak module that will fail soon. As for buying replacement modules, my buddy Joe has $30K in testing equipment and he sells used modules that are consistently the healthiest modules in my rebuilt pack: 2ndlifebattery on eBay

There's plenty more to it than that... But that's enough to get started... Post again once you have that data?

 

I once talked to one lady who gave her daughter her Gen1 Prius with the red triangle on when she went off to college and by the time her daughter graduated, she was still driving around with that red triangle. But if anyone on here expects the same result, they'll likely be waiting for a tow truck driver way sooner than later...

 

You cannot buy new cells just ones that have not yet totally failed. That is why some people get a pack from a low mileage wreck.

You mentioned the Prolong system. They also sell used battery modules.

 

I do have another vehicle lol. The subie is the fiances. I have a 14 2500 and my work is 20 mins from my house so I'm not gonna go broke driving it to work. I have the prius for when Im working a job an hour plus drive from the house. And more often then not, that's what I'm usually driving but I got lucky on this new job I'm on.

 

Plus I always have my obd link bluetooth scanner in the prius now so I won't be stranded. At least there will be less if a chance lol

 

Apologies... There was an honest attempt by me to review the thread before my reply but that obviously was a fail... For best results, private message me. It's almost near impossible to keep track of what stage everyone is at after the usual hijacking of the thread considering that there's multiple threads per day.

If PriusChat's owner wants to find a solution for that I'd put way many hours into it... Helping people learn all the details of fixing their car on their own is definitely what's most important to me on here!

 

But if you buy a brand new pack for $1650 you could sell people modules brand new for $58 each. Of course the dash lights will love lighting up for a new module that has no business hanging out with the wrong kind of degenerate friends.

 

You forgot about adding in the core fee since you would not be returning a core when buying a pack at that mythical price.

If you buy the kit of new cells there is no core fee so you can sell your unfailing modules to recoup some of the cost.

 

The damn has broken on gen 2 battery longevity and threads are getting very numerous especially in the summer heat. I've been suggesting it for years that we need a stickie for "So you got a P0A80 light" or similar with a how-to diagnose, what are my options and the steps involved with each (with pics and links).

 

Might be even better if that was its own forum right on top, with subforums for different generations and models. The error messages, triage steps and background info needed to understand the issue are very similar across all models anyway.

 

The PiP, Prime, & most of US Gen 4 will be different though due to different battery chemistry. Even the NiMH Gen 4s are not yet supported by the Prolong system. or the battery kit

The Gen 1 has a larger pack, and a less expensive dealer price, IIRC.

 

The core fee is easily covered by gathering up a pile of bad modules and spending an hour with spare parts building it to exact same spec as the new pack. For battery rebuilders who have a cluttered up shop it's a great way to get rid of stuff... But the point I was trying to make is that a brand new module isn't going to match up very well with a used pack.

 

So what you are saying is that using the DTC and module count is not only redundant but also inferior to testing all the modules.