Changing Transaxle oil

Ramps don't work if you have to remove wheels. Don't know what else to say... I have friends that are scared of microwave ovens, can't explain it, won't judge 'em for it, just can't understand the phobia.

 

PriusGuy32, I think that was from the red and green show that I always watch when I was at the 1000 islands.

 

I changed my tranny oil and never had to put it on ramps because I don't own any.

 

It's not 100% paranoia. All it takes is one time, and you're a "mancake"

 

Same goes for driving your car. Or walking down the street. Or just about anything else.

Difference is that working on your car in your garage is a much more controlled environment.

 

Boppo has the best solution, don't use any ramps.. just do it on the ground. a bit more difficult, but can be done I suppose.

 

Lots of things you should have done with the front end up. Trans is just the beginning. AC e-coil maintenance which is installing a can of pressurized microbial cleaner up the drip hose. Fill's the e-coil with foamy cleaner and cleans it. Prius has tendency to smell musty like gymn socks if parked with the vent door shut always. Thats fungus growing in the e-coil box. You may notice it when you first turn on ac. If real bad you can smell it in the vents. Should be done at least once every 2 years. Dealer charges $100. Hard part is jacking the car up so if you raise the front end lots of things to do to take advantage of the jack.

And lubricate the front & back suspension and running gear and the connectors on the trans. And all door hinges. Hood latch. All bolt heads. All hose clamps. And the rubber boot between the doors . 12 volt battery and well. Coat them lightly with spray grease and it will keep the water out and prevent corrosion. The resolver connector on the trans rotting out is a known issue. Coat all connectors lightly with grease. It keeps the water out.
Spray rubber conditioner (black magic protectant) on the inner & outer cv joint boots and steering rack boots. One dried out cracked boot will prematurely take out the joint. $$$$. When you need to work on it just clean it off with brake cleaner. Brand new shiny metal underneath. This is not rocket science.

D not use silicone spray or the god awful stinking WD.

Not necessary to have the entire bottom end of the car a creaking groaning clunking rusted mess.

Best spray grease on the market found only at Home Depot:

PB Blaster CSP Corrosion Stop Protectant 11oz | eBay

 

Took my '07 Prius to the Maui Toyota today for a recall. When I picked it up, the gal at the service counter told me that the transmission fluid looked dirty and highlighted this on the invoice:

"PLEASE NOTE: TRANSMISSION FLUID IS DIRTY AND LOOKS ORIGIONAL!<sic> THIS IS A SEALED W/S UNIT, REC FLUSHING. (ESTIMATE: TRANSMISSION FLUSH $385.00)

I'm glad I visited PriusChat and read all 17 pages of this thread.

 

Okay, now this thread has got me all nervous now about needing to change the trans oil. I have an 07 with 108,000 miles on it. I have three questions that I don't think were addressed in any of the previous posts (though I didn't make it through every word of all 17 pages!).

1. Is it important to use ATF WS versus some other type of ATF oil? I looked online and there is cheap ATF oil, but I want to be sure I'm not changing the fluid to the wrong type.

2. How important is it that I get the torque correct when I replace the plugs? I don't have a torque wrench and I'd rather not buy one for this project if I can avoid it.

3. The washers that I need to replace. Are they just normal washers that I can pick up at the hardware store or do I need special washers from the dealer or something?

Thanks!

 

Haha, I didn't realize out cheap I sounded in that post, but upon re-reading it...yeah. This is actually more a fear of doing things wrong and convenience than cheaping out.

I just didn't know if normal ATS oil would make a difference because I don't know what WS means and I only found one brand of WS on Amazon. I thought it might be like the HDMI cable situation where you can spend $50 or $5 for a cable and they do the exact same thing. And regarding the washers, I just didn't know where to go to get them. Hardware store is way more convenient for me than getting out to the dealership, but I think I can part with the $2 for this project if I absolutely HAVE to.

Regarding the torque wrench...that's just me being cheap though now I feel like I should buy one just to prove I can spend money. I must defend my internet honor.

 

Most ATF cools and lubricates gears and torque converters, in a Prius it cools the two Motor Generators and a gearset.
Most ATF is not tested to see what happens at 650 volts at high temperatures, (they might be fine, just not a test anyone is doing) but the Toyota ATF-WS has been tested.

 

Show me the test please.

 

The aluminum crush washers are definitely not your hardware store steel washers. I won't "save" a few dollars by risking on a car that costs tens of thousands of dollars. But that's just me.

 

Ed,

The "test" is that WS has been proven to work in our Prii over the last 10 years of real use (Ford ATF has also been proven effective in similar hybrid trannies from the same OEM). Lab testing is not then required to "prove" that WS works in a Prius. Other ATF suppliers need to convince us via published testing that shows their formula is a suitable replacement. I don't say that other ATF formulations will break my tranny, but see no need to use anything other than Toyota type WS ATF in my Prius. You are welcome to experiment with yours and reporting the results of a long term test with lab reports will help us evaluate other options.

JeffD

 

This is the fluid approved by Toyota. That means they tested it. This fluid comes in your Prius from factory.

- Alex

 

No no no....I'm looking for the 650 volt test Jimbo quotes.

Show me THAT test please?

 

Gentlefolk, my Toyota dealer recommended transaxle oil change and wanted $200+ for it and said oil change is computerized. Is this "computerized" thing nonsense? My Prius is at 100k miles now.

 

The ATF change is a simple drain and refill. My dealer in CT charges $100.

JeffD

 

Please excuse my laziness of not reading all 17 threads. I lifted up my car with the scissor jack and removed the fill plug, no fluid came out, and then the drain plug and lowered it level and let it drain. Then lifted it again and started filling it. Some where on the end of the 4th quart it was overfilling so I lowered it level till it was done draining out the fill plug and then lifted it again to put the plug in and called it a day. So my question is some where I read it takes 4 quarts but my 05 didn't. If I had a nice shop I would have lifted it up level and pumped it up till it was full like an axle and not thought twice. So that being said am I ok or do I need to lift the front end on ramps and put a little more in?