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Cataclean and EGR Clog Codes

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Technical Discussion' started by C-in-DC, Feb 21, 2023.

  1. C-in-DC

    C-in-DC Member

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    I’ve accepted it’s the cat but I’m wondering if I need to replace the sensors associated with it as well
     
  2. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    I think I would reuse the sensors unless there is some reason for thinking they are bad.
     
  3. AzusaPrius

    AzusaPrius Senior Member

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    I replaced the OEM long ago and they were with aftermarket cheap ones.

    When I got the magnaflow installed I replaced the now used cheap ones with brand new Denso sensors.

    I would not keep used ones have it all new.

    That will get you the best mpg and performance.
     
  4. Mr. F

    Mr. F Active Member

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    If either of the sensors is operating abnormally, the car will always set a relevant code. No relevant code means the sensors are fine, and the car will not perform any better or worse if you swap them out for new units.

    And since sensors are quite a bit more expensive than a one-off bottle of miracle fluid, it may be more prudent to replace them only if there is an indication that they are somehow malfunctioning. For what it's worth, Techstream offers dedicated tests to help you determine whether they are operating normally.
     
  5. C-in-DC

    C-in-DC Member

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    Don’t have the expertise to confirm if they’re malfunctioning. I can post videos of some other tests but no one comments on them and I don’t know what I’m seeing so eh, gotta read more or something.

    I did an evap system check this morning with my scan tool. Somehow that cleared all the codes but it would not go through all the steps of the test. There’s probably a leak in the vacuum line somewhere or the vacuum pump is bad?

    I really hate Toyota’s sole propriety of tech stream. It makes sense to limit access to people because then they won’t go to the dealer for repairs if they can figure things out on their own but man, the software locks have killed my wallet. I tried the pirated version but wasn't successful with installing.
     
  6. C-in-DC

    C-in-DC Member

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    new cat will just be a bandaid. I have yet to do a transmission flush or interverter coolant replacement on this vehicle. My experience with coolant during the engine swap was pretty bad. Imagine seeing your “new” engine overheat while you bleed the coolant.

    I’m praying I can get to that after the cat. My shocks are clanking now and possibly the sway bars are loose. There’s one tire worn out and holding on a thread. Fun stuff.
     
  7. C-in-DC

    C-in-DC Member

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    Any recommendations on what to use clean them?
     
  8. Mr. F

    Mr. F Active Member

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    Not a big fan of paywalled diagnostics either, but regardless of where you source it, a reasonably recent version of Techstream can be cleanly installed on both 32- and 64-bit versions of Windows without any special steps or tricks. Compatibility extends all the way up to Windows 11.
     
  9. C-in-DC

    C-in-DC Member

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    If I could connect the thinkdiag dongle to tech stream instead of a mini vci that would be awesome. I don't have a 32 or 64 bit laptop to use.
     
  10. C-in-DC

    C-in-DC Member

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    Since the evap system check test I haven’t gotten any codes.
     
  11. C-in-DC

    C-in-DC Member

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    P0401 appeared again. i tried operating the vacuum pump but I couldn’t hear it. Could p0401, p0441, p0455, and p0420 all come from a bad vacuum pump or a leak in an air hose?
     
  12. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    P0401 means the intake manifold absolute pressure didn't rise as much as it should have when the EGR valve was opened for a flow test.

    Usually, we expect that to mean the EGR valve didn't open (or open enough) for some reason, or it opened but the EGR path is clogged.

    I suppose if there were a big enough intake leak raising the baseline absolute pressure in the manifold, then even working EGR might not make enough pressure difference to pass the test, and you might get a P0401 that way. I have never thought about whether that's a realistic scenario. It might require such a large intake leak that the engine just wouldn't be running.
     
  13. C-in-DC

    C-in-DC Member

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    At cold start the engine is sounding rough. Then it smooths out. My theory is I have a leak in the vacuum hose that’s connected at minute 4:25
    I think the connection of the two hoses is leaking. this is throwing off the air fuel ratio and causing the motor to burn rich. In turn that’s affecting the catalytic converter readings and the egr valve isn’t opening all the way because of the loss in vacuum pressure(producing p0401). It also could be producing the evap codes(p0441, p0455).

    That short hose that runs on the top of engine ripped when I tried stuffing the longer hose coming from the vacuum pump. I used a larger diameter hose to connect the two hoses and two hose clamps to seal the connection. I bet that bad seal is leaking but I just can’t hear it. See photo

    thinking I should replace the short hose, which is a 2016 part, with a longer 2010 hose. I can’t find the original 2010 hose.

    If the cat was really bad it would probably throw the p0420 code a lot quicker? Takes about 6 hours of driving to get p0401. P0420 comes back later on.
     

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  14. CR94

    CR94 Senior Member

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    What vacuum pump?
     
  15. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Like a lot of codes, P0420 has two-trip detection logic. The monitor test, which only runs once per trip, and only after the A/F sensor and O₂ sensor monitors have already completed (because it needs to know those sensors work), and only under certain load and catalyst temperature conditions, and has a page-long list of other codes that will prevent it from running if they are present, has to complete with not-passing status on two consecutive drives before the code will be set.
     
  16. C-in-DC

    C-in-DC Member

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    part
    17650 in assembly diagram 177885A .
     
  17. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    If I'm not mistaken, PNC 17650 is a vacuum switching valve, not a pump.
     
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  18. C-in-DC

    C-in-DC Member

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    I think ultimately the mistakes I made in the engine swap will come back to haunt me. The degas bottle had a lot of pressure in it when I opened it today.
    ah! Okay. Thank you for the correction. I watched a video on testing it. I figured not hearing it click meant in went bad and was part of the issue.
     
  19. C-in-DC

    C-in-DC Member

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    Thank you for pointing that mistake out. Makes me think I should punt this to a mechanic because I’m not going to figure it out. I just can’t rely on the ones I know locally.
     
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  20. C-in-DC

    C-in-DC Member

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    Could what’s causing p0401 cause p0441 and p0455 and ultimately trickle downstream to cause P0420? Or is what’s causing p0420(bad cat) causing p0401 thus p0441,& p0455 are not related to them?

    I’ve changed the gas cap, and p0401, p0441,p0455, came back. P0420 has not returned. Seems like the evap codes should be tackled first and the emissions codes thereafter.

    Seen a few videos claiming the evap codes could cause p0401. Obviously, being a diy-er means there’s no smoke machine available. Next step would be changing the vacuum valve and visual inspection of the evap lines. Whenever I clear the check engine light and it comes back with an evap code I smell the fuel in the cabin especially with the heat on. Makes me think the vacuum valve is fubar and needs to be replaced. If it’s not that then smoke machine mechanic it is.