brake, (!), ABS, and VSC lights on

I get a failure message from techstream every time. Followed all the directions. Maybe it's the cheap cable I bought on Amazon. I even downloaded an older version of the software. Still failed. At some point while utilizing the non-techstream bleed process I found on here, I noted that the new/used actuator assembly is leaking brake fluid. I had to stop and wait until I have a friend available so I can run the actuator and see if I can identify the leak source. May have to take the damn thing apart again. It would still be cheaper to buy a used $600-something handheld device than to take it to a shop if I can find the leak.

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For the recap... This was an evolving situation with a lot of road blocks along the way. Sorry if this post becomes lengthy. I won't bore you with the initial details, just know that I narrowed the problem down to the actuator assembly.

First, I called a local trusted mechanic shop who told me that even if I brought in a used part, it would cost somewhere around (potentially more than) $1200 in labor to fix it. The used part was $230 from an online retailer with 30 day return policy if it didn't work. Everyone kept talking about the warranty that just expired... as if that was helpful. The part arrived and was already attached to the framework that it mounts to under the hood, so I could just replace the whole thing.

Second, I committed to the repair. I had a mini VCI cable I bought on Amazon which does fine for reading codes and clearing them, but I could not get the techstream software to bleed the system after the fact, and I'm assuming that's due to the cheap cable, though I can't confirm. Also, I paid for access to the toyota tech site so that I could get access to documentation with step by step instructions. The electronic manual is horrible, the hyperlinks lead to nowhere and it's not set up in a linear fashion, so you can't just flip pages to get to where you need.

**NOTE** What I didn't find anywhere online is that because you have to remove the inverter, you also have to do a coolant change for the inverter. Not that big of a deal, it's super easy to do, but it took extra time to go get the coolant and such. ALSO, I didn't initially see this, but it is out there, there is a service plug/switch to remove from the HV battery before you remove the inverter which may or may not save you from electrocution.

Third, the actual work...

This video was slightly helpful in prepping for the job but is missing a lot of information. I disconnected the 12v battery prior to ripping parts from the car... This may not have been necessary. You also have to remove the cowling and windshield wiper assembly and the plastic cover in the front of the car. If you're like me, you break half of the plastic clips, especially when they're 14 years old, so have some extras on hand.
Next, the inverter comes out, which is pretty easy... lots of 10mm bolts and a few plugs and connectors. Some of the connectors were more than a little stubborn. Once the inverter is removed, there is a water pump attached to the same framework as the actuator. there are just two bolts holding it on, so no big deal.

ONCE YOU GET TO REMOVING THE ACTUATOR ASSEMBLY, YOU HAVE TO COMMIT TO PUTTING THE NEW ONE IN RIGHT AWAY. It is not difficult to take out. It just starts dripping brake fluid very slowly until everything is reconnected. (It probably would be easy to plug these if you know how or have the right pieces, but I don't know these things.) Just need ratchet extension with some decent length, a 10mm wrench for the semi-flexible connections carrying brake fluid, and some muscle. This part would have been easier to do with a friend. It's possible also that it would have been easier to remove the actuator assembly from the piece of framework it is attached to, but I often do things the hard way for no particular reason. I clamped the rubber hoses that I had to disconnect that led from the fluid reservoir to the actuator with some hemostats. By examining the new part and what was already in the car, it was pretty easy to identify what needed to be disconnected/reconnected... Between that and the repair manual, this part was pretty easy. Maneuvering the large assembly out/in was much easier to do with the help of an extra set of hands. Then, I just had to put things back where they go. I keep all of the nuts/bolts from each step in separate ziploc bags to keep organized and avoid confusion. Putting it back together was a breeze since I knew where everything went.

Fourth, bleeding the system. This was a nightmare. Techstream wouldn't do what I wanted it to do. Looking back, it may have been because I didn't have the service plug/switch thing properly installed after the repair. I had to take it out and put it back in again later. It also may have been the cheap nice person cable I bought on Amazon, as I had read in the reviews that I was not the only person to have these problems, but the $20 price tag was cheaper than taking it to the mechanic and having them charge me $100 just to pull the freaking codes. Replacing brake fluid and bleeding brakes on a GEN II Prius without Techstream | PriusChat This was the post I followed to bleed the system, and my paranoid self ran the actuator repeatedly while bleeding the brake to passenger rear and ran multiple quarts of fluid to get all the air out of the actuator which may have been in there. After the initial larger amounts of air came out, I was getting constant bubbling (very small amounts) which I'm now convinced was just air around the threads of the bleeder plug because when I bled the other brakes, I did not have this problem. Finished the job, cleared the codes, and everything seems to be working okay, as far as the brakes are concerned.

HOWEVER! I think I broke something... I have a problem which has happened twice since the repair. The car seems to think the hybrid battery is bad in the middle of driving, warning lights pop up, the energy screen on the dash shows the hybrid battery level decrease rapidly, then after a couple minutes, it starts reading the battery level normally and functioning properly. When the problem occurs, techstream reads codes telling me that the HV battery needs to be replaced. I clear the codes and it functions normally... then happens again later on. WHAT DID I DO?!?!

 

Realized I didn't reply to you in my recap post... wanted to make sure you saw it. I wish I would've take pictures/video during the repair process. It would have been easier to recap and explain. LOL

 

Thanks for yet another great tip! I will purchase this as soon as I get a couple more paychecks. I would love to have something reliable. During my adventures, I totaled my old 2002 Accord and now have to replace it. Blah.

 

thanks for the tip. I did as you say, following another member's detailed instructions

 

This is what I'm seeing. Right now it's cleared again and functioning normally

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After clearing the codes for the second time, it didn't come back. Everything's working fine. Maybe just a fluke.

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I was able to navigate like that. I guess my problem was that it would reference another section/page and have a hyperlink that didn't work (might have been my computer). For this repair it was referring me to various things like coolant change, inverter removal, actuator change, brake bleeding... I may be kind of old fashioned, but because I couldn't get the hyperlinks to work, it took extra time and I was desperately wishing I had an actual book in front of me!

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That's just my luck. If you knew me, it's typical. Murphy's law is a daily consideration in everything that I do and all decisions I make

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