Blown Head gasket rebuild....@297k

That's scary when you're working on pulling an engine. Are you parked on a dirt road? stands might not be the safest - try cinder blocks?

Pixel XL ?

 

Are you referring to the “L-shaped” plastic harness that is off to the right of the engine?

 

No, it's an asphalt driveway, although on a slight incline. But the car is positioned "butt up" on that incline, not sideways… I've done this many times before, and it always was very stable. No idea how that happened today.

That whole thing came off with the bolt. I'm referring to the very last connector on a said harness, which is plugged somewhere below water pump, if I remember correctly.

 

The a/c compressor connector? That one is a little tricky, but it is very similar to your typical connector. The tab is just very small.

 

Take a picture of the connector in question. There are a few in that area, but the a/c compressor one comes to mind.

 

Yeah, looks like an AC compressor. How the hell do I unplug that thing?

 

The tab is very tiny and is sorta hidden on the connector body. If you push on it and gently walk the connector off (using a pocket screwdriver), it will come off.

9098012303 Genuine Toyota HOUSING, CONNECTOR 90980-12303 | eBay

This one?

 

Looks like it (I was only able to see it in an inspection mirror, since it's hidden under that L-shaped… whatshouldicallit, strain relief?)

If I understand correctly, the tab that needs to be pushed in is not on a part you referenced but on its counterpart, and is located where that little "window" is on a 3rd photo, did I get it right?

 

not that it will help you now per-se, but in the future...

I did the calculations to figure out where a 4’ 2x8 needs to mount on my ramp to clear the bumper of the CT. Turns out the board should mount on the ramp where it will be 8” from the floor. I know this is a truck, but I wanted to see if it could hold my truck wt, it can. This also makes it easier to keep the ramps from pushing forward.



Sorry to hear it fell. Happened to me when changing the wheel bearing. Scary stuff. I ended up getting a lift. Yes it was pricy, but man I love it.


-Spiral

 

If you still need help with that connector, I can take some close up pics of the engine in my garage in the morning.


-Spiral

 

If you can highlight a disconnect tab on a photo, that would be fantastic. As for the ramps… mine are RhinoRamps; not as steep as yours, but still too steep for a Prius. I use thick plywood as a "pre-ramp" when I change oil, not far from your idea. But since at least one of the wheels have to come off for this project, I had to jack it up. Now it's supported on one side by wheel-on-a-ramp, jack stand and a scissor jack (latter taking maybe 5% of the load), while the other side is the same (yes, I have a few scissor jacks), but for the next stage I'll remove the wheel and put a ramp on its side under the frame… just to tame my newfound paranoia a bit.

By the way, the guy in a video says to support the engine or let it drop to the frame, but never bothers to tell how to raise it back… which means that I'll probably use yet another scissor jack to support it. What's the best jacking point? It seems that the engine's CG is occupied by the oil pan…

 

For the 12 volt connector to the AC pump I found a narrow flat-blade screwdriver was slightly too thick to slip in and help to release the locking tab. And you really DO need to pry: pressing on the official point is near useless.

What I found worked was a pen knife blade, inserted into gap just barely above the base off the connector, then a little outward pry. When you get it right it's absurdly easy to release.

 

I'll print it as a sticker and put on my toolbox next to "Everything is figureoutable"

 

Day 2 (the weather is not cooperating at all!). Spent almost all day messing with the EGR cooler, it was much more difficult to remove than I thought based on videos. Studs in the back were extremely corroded and stuck for good; liquid wrench was not really helping… Had to apply so much force to remove them, it felt like I was stripping the threads. Nope, just a whole lot of corrosion.

Up close the cooler didn't look that bad – yes, there was some carbon, but not as bad as some coolers I've seen here… but then I poured some water in it. I'd say a 3" stack of coffee filters would've been less restrictive. Yeesh!

 

I remember one guy here after doing his cooler said he thought it would be easier to leave those rear studs and instead remove both of the side ones. Is that even a feasible option? If so it would help for cases like this. (But otherwise that bottom stud is invisible and wouldn't be much fun to deal with.)

 

It is, but you'll need some exotic tool to remove one in a back. Something like a flex shaft screwdriver with E8 bit… a screwdriver that could deliver full torque while bent. There's no way to accomplish this task with ratchets (including flex), I've wasted 2 hours trying.

(well, technically you could move the inverter out of the way…)

The one that connects to exhaust manifold? I had to use a pretty long handled ratchet to remove it, just barely wiggling it back and forth due to lack of space. Why long handled? Because I had to apply so much force it felt like either I gonna strip the threads or snap the stud. It was literally screaming with every move, despite being soaked in liquid wrench overnight.

PS: The gasket between exhaust manifold and EGR cooler was definitely leaking, despite the fact that gasket itself shows no signs of corrosion. Perhaps they undertorqued this junction at the factory? Won't be the first Toyota blunder with this particular car…

 

How could you tell it was leaking?

 

Manifold side flange on a cooler has a radial corrosion pattern. Fortunately not very deep… still, will be using a composite gasket on it, maybe copper spray too.

 

Pics?

 

Sure.

Luckily you caught it before wire brush.