Blown Head gasket rebuild....@297k

Thanks. I ordered the fel pro gasket set and head bolt set from Napa, since they have 30% off this Saturday before 9am. It ends up beaing like $44 for the bolts and $127 for the gasket set, and it theres a problem I can return it up the street instead of dealing with shipping.

The intake and valve cover gaskets look reuseable at 210k and 9 years, but the valve cover had a leak in the rear passenger corner, which could be the RTV or the gasket. the connectors that plug in to the rear of the block are covered in oily mud. I probably could have gotten away with just buying the head gasket and stem seals.

 

I had a hole blown through my crankcase.
Should I replace the radiator, since I had BlueDevil in it? Or just flush it. Oh—I’m replacing the engine.

 

Quick question for the gurus. Starting tomorrow, I will be tackling my own head gasket, mostly using this video and this very forum as a reference… Now here's the question. Toyota's own doc suggests applying a dab of seal packing (can I replace it with a black Permatex?) in 2 very specific points on the block, then installing the head gasket, applying 2 more dabs of seal packing in the same spots, then installing and tightening the head "within 15 minutes", then wiping the excess… I've never seen it mentioned elsewhere. Did you do it or not? Why?

 

I know that video talks about a couple locations, but the manual has additional places. I would follow the repair manual though. Those locations are where a seam is inside the timing cover. Others may have just forgotten to add that particular detail in their descriptions.

I don’t want to give bad advice on material, so hopefully someone else chimes in, but I will say getting that sort of thing from Toyota isn’t that horrible either.


-Spiral

 

I agree, I bought a tube of the Toyota black FIPG (form in place gasket), it was not particularly expensive, and it works very well.

 

I used and was very impressed with the timing cover sealant I picked up at the Toyota dealership for ~$17. I used it in those dab locations but even more important was since there is no o ring for the timing cover I wanted something I could trust for 100k plus miles since it is so labor intensive to redo if the timing cover gasket material fails.

 

Ordered a tube of Three Bond 1207B, since Toyota's own manual suggests it. Also got a head bolt set from BeckArnley, as I don't have any proper Toyota dealerships in the area.

…or is it okay to reuse the old bolts? (no, I'm not trying to start a flame war)

 

I applied the RTV where specified. I think the reason for the RTV in that area (both under and on-top of the HG) is because those locations are perpendicular to where the timing cover meets the block. Since the head gasket is a metal gasket it lacks some of the conformity that a rubber gasket would have. My guess is that a small amount of RTV in this area would fill in any small imperfection towards the edge of the block that may cause oil to seep onto the head gasket.

 

The repair manual provides this guidance:

Using a vernier caliper, measure the length of the cylinder head set bolt from the seat to the end.
Standard length: 146.8 to 148.2 mm (5.78 to 5.83 in.)
Maximum length: 149.2 mm (5.87 in.)

Using a vernier caliper, measure the diameter of the elongated thread at the measurement point.
Measurement point: 115 mm (4.53 in.)
Standard diameter: 9.77 to 9.96 mm (0.385 to 0.392 in.)
Minimum diameter: 9.4 mm (0.370 in.)

 

You can re-use the bolts if they meet the Toyota spec. However, it is rumored that used TTY bolts do not provide the same clamping force, even if they are within specs.

 

One more question – about Permatex copper spray that y'all seem to like. Fel-Pro gasket is 3 separate layers of thin metal held together by 3 rivets, they are not glued together and basically just flopping around. No matter if you hold it upright or lay it flat, if you spray "copper" on it, some of the aerosol will make its way between the layers, possibly screwing up the thickness near the edges and openings… perhaps quite unevenly so. Am I missing the point here?

 

I dont recommend applying any additional sealers to MLS gaskets
see link below:
Pros & Cons of MLS and Copper Gaskets

 

There is no need to use copper spray.

I also would not use the fel-pro gaskets. From my experience with their other gaskets, I would not be inclined to use them for a critical application.

 

My thoughts exactly.

 

Really?!? I thought fel-pro was the goto for gaskets. What brand do you recommend (other than dealer parts)?


-Spiral

 

Dealer only. Maybe stone from WORLDPAC if you have access.

Aftermarket parts are getting worse by the month.

 

Maybe just car parts.

Just bought some rollers for our dryer drum that has been squealing loudly recently .

The shop I bought the rollers from said the generics are better than the OEM parts from Samsung .

But if doing a head gasket, I’d stick OEM as I wouldn’t want to have to do the job again.

 

Is the OEM head gasket an MLS-type gasket?

Pixel XL ?

 

Yes.

 

Day 1 of the rebuild. Working slow, as I don't have a garage and have to work in a 90 degree heat between rains. So far it's been quite a cursed experience.

• Tire shop guys did a great job tightening the lug nuts – I broke a 1/2" shaft of my 24" breaker bar trying to undo their work.
• The car fell from jack stands. Somehow one of the wheel chokes (rated for trucks) got squished by the rear tire (wut?!), and the car swung sideways. No way to reposition it now, as it's been completely unpowered and no longer has any fluids. Jacked it back up, supported front wheels by jamming ramps under them (my ramps are unfortunately too steep for a Prius) to hopefully restrict any lateral movement. Once I remove a passenger side wheel (I don't have any means to remove the engine, so will be working through wheel well), it will get interesting.
• Soaked intake manifold in a bucket of Oxi. I've cleaned it about 40K miles ago, so it was relatively clean to begin with. However, the hole corresponding to 3rd cylinder (that's where misfires started in my case) had a lot more sludge than any other. At least 2x more. I really hope that it could be cured by lapping the valve, but we'll see at the autopsy.
• There's a Г-shaped connector at the very bottom end of the engine's main electrical cable. All other connectors (sensors, injectors, etc) were easy to disconnect, but this one seems to have a latch at the innermost part of the Г. Tried engaging it with various tools, to no avail. Went googling and rewatching a teardown video (the one in my comment higher on this thread, and it's also been referenced at least twice in earlier posts here), only to find out that other guys just left it there. Has anyone being able to unlock that thing?

Tomorrow, if weather permits, I'll start the actual teardown.