Blown Head gasket rebuild....@297k

Changing oil every 10k miles 0w20 mobil. It could gave been signs for cold weather behave or cold start.tems were 60 degs here at 7am. I dont cinsidwr that as cold. Anyways the code showing p0301 again. I did reset it .i will get the IM cleaned ahaun and replace tbe egr cooler with my clean spare.

 

From what I've read: P0301 means misfire in cylinder #1, which is the cylinder at the left end of the engine, as you're standing at the front.

 

By another one of the solemn traditions (like cyl #1 is the one at the "front" of the engine, and the "front" means the pulley-end-not-the-flywheel-end even when the engine is sideways), the "left" and "right" of a car are generally with reference to as you would sit driving it ... like "port" and "starboard" which I guess sounded too nautical. It is clear enough to say "left as you're standing at the front" as Mendel did, but a way that would be clear and traditional would be something like "right as you face forward" (where the "as you face forward" is redundant to people within the tradition, but clarifying for others).

-Chap

 

Old mechanics state that the Prius oil consumption issues likely relate to stuck rings, pull the plugs, fill the cylinders with a cleaner of your choice let it sit overnight.
Use a cavity vacuum on each cylinder, change the oil, replace plugs, run the engine a while and change the oil again after a very short period of time.

MMO Piston soak Prius - Bob Is The Oil Guy

 

I wonder why that would be. Speculating, based on half-recalled info I've read:

For 2010/2011, the EGR gasses (which apparently help cool the engine) enter the intake manifold at the other end, #4 cylinder, into a single "gallery" tube that runs the full width of the intake mainfold, with capillaries down to each intake port. Accordingly, maybe #4 cylinder gets max cooling, and the cooling diminishes cylinder by cylinder, #1 ended up the hottest.

And then in 2012, they revised the intake manifold's EGR routing, to be more of a one-into-two-into-four cascade, maybe in an effort to more uniformly distribute the EGR gasses?

I did notice when bubbling out the carbon on our intake, with Oxi-Clean, the capillary at the number four port was the dirtiest, and they got progressively cleaner across the row.



In his video @NutzAboutBolts

 

When I cleaned my intake with Oven Cleaner and Gunk, there was even build up across all intakes and the little holds.
I was surprised how clear even the egr cooler was. I guess because the previous owner never drove over 65mph.
And most of it was highway driving.
Everything cleaned up easily. The hardest part was the cleaning out the intake on the head. I miss not having a compressor!
It was slow cleaning that out!

 

Interesting. Had the intake manifold ever been replaced? Again going from flakey memory: there was some sort of service bulletin campaign for a while, with the right symptoms they'd replace it with an updated version. I see 4 parts numbers for that item, 3 revisions.

 

I don't believe so. They had ALL the paperwork! ALLLL OF IT! None of it with any big changes.
Any/all recalls were done. I need to get it in to get the headlamp harness's replaced. Which I'd rather do myself,
but I'm sure they won't just give me the parts...

 

I understand why they have to do it. I just prefer my work because I KNOW it will be done correctly, the first time.

 

Well, no, they won't give 'em to you, but they'll sell 'em to you. No different from any other part.



You need two, plus the proper copper-to-aluminum crimp sleeves and sealant-lined heat shrink tubes, and the correct crimper for the copper-to-aluminum crimp. You don't want to do anything half-@ssed when crimping copper to aluminum. Toyota sells the crimp tool at around $150, but @Elektroingenieur has found it for less.

More about the repair ended up on this thread, partly because of the Cu-to-Al business.

Port/starboard also have a fixed reference direction baked in, as if you're facing the direction the vessel points. So the engine pulley is always on the starboard side of a Prius, no matter where you're standing or what direction you're looking when you see it.

-Chap

 

You seem to be misreading what I'm writing.
I know what I need, I know what needs to be done to repair it, I know how to do it.
A consumer doesn't PAY for something to be replaced or repaired on a defective part. The company does.
I want to do it myself because I don't trust any of them to do it correctly.
I wouldn't "crimp" the connectors for a connection exposed to the elements. Inside the car you can get a way with.
But outside, no. Not even with the sealant. I would solder it. But since they don't get paid to solder it, they won't.
But I would because that is the RIGHT thing to do.
I've worked on cars since the mid 80's. I am a Mercedes Technician. I've worked at 3 different dealerships. I know
most of the people there are only there for the money and will do the job the quickest easiest way just to make money.
But I was raised better. I will do it the quickest and easiest way, "IF" it's the BEST way. I repair a car as if my Mother
was driving it.
I have about $50-60,000 worth of tools, I'm not buying anymore.

 

You have bad oil rings.

 

danlatu replaced his piston rings with
ITM ENGINE COMPONENTS 0216980
Toyota acknowledges their piston rings are the cause of all the problems with their 2010-2014 Prius engines.
The faulty ring design causes oil consumption which causes the EGR to clog up, oil in the intake manifold, spark plugs to foul and misfire, thick carbon on top of the pistons which will pop up your head causing the head gasket to leak. Nothing has ever been more clear to me.
You must replace the oil control rings or replace the engine with one that does not have faulty oil rings.

 

The pdf of that, T-SB-0169-16, plus T-SB-0168-16, which details an oil consumption test, required to authorize doing the repair :