Blown Head gasket rebuild....@297k

Thanks for this. I wasn't even sure if it was male or female "sockets" we were talking about. In a fab shop I worked for, bolt of that ilk were categorized as "socket-head cap screw" if I recall correctly.

 

Ya, the double hex bit is a 12 point socket in male form, a six point 10 mm Allen socket will work, with only 1/2 the grip.

 

I'm in the middle of doing a head gasket on the wife's 2012 plug-in and while ordering parts I found this thread. Thought I might poo out some pics while I'm here. I was gonna post a couple hours ago, but thanks to that danlatu douche for the fpv links, I got lost in youtoobs for hours still love the vids of mr steele chasing the big gas 3d planes.

 

Also on the whole 10mm bi-hexagonal socket vs triple square dilio, I used a 12mm bluepoint triple square. It fit nice and snug and has plenty of meat and grip to handle the necessary torque but the angle of the teeth is different to the bi-hex. the O.D. of the points is the same, and this is plenty good for removal, but since I'm kinda anal I will use a long bi-hex 'without an extension' for the re-installation. I wonder how the 2 types of sockets are measured for the sizing tho, since the manual lists a 10mm bi-hex and this 12mm triple square fits perfect. Must be O.D. for one and I.D. for the other?

 

Alright finally had time to work on the Prius again, put all the engine back together and today put it back in, about 2 hours to put it back and tie all the bolts, motor mounts etc,
I should get it running by Tuesday, because one of my T pipes to the radiator hose broke at engine removal and I forget to ordered at the dealership

 

Broken hose pipe

 

Alright my prius was finally done last night and started right up, very small amount or not smoke at all, I taked for a ride after bleeding the antifreeze, 30 miles it drives and feels great and probably cleaning the EGR valve was very helpful as my egr valve was 100% cloged, the Prius feels stronger and is very quiet, excellent work i do have to change my OCC hose as I used the one that was provided with occ and this hose is to soft and Don't work very well,
I will update any new information after driven for at least 500 miles,
Thanks to danlatu for his help and thi group for all your input and good comments

 

Good deal.

 

So I have time to write a slightly longer post tonight. First off my gasket blew at 147k. This is my wife's car but when I'm stuck at the helm I ride this thing like a red headed stepchild so I am probly on the early end of the failure chart I originally thought that I had the stuck EGR problem that is addressed by a Toyota TSB because the early symptoms mirror what is outlined by the TSB. i.e. Rattling rough start when first started cold. I did have a p0301 in the computer which is a cyl.1 misfire but I cleared it and took the big baby blue turd into Toyota Carlsbad and told the service writer that I wanted the tsb carried out (sorry I don't have the TSB number on hand a.t.m.) and they did it without any complaints. The next day I got the dreaded text from the missus that "it's still doing it". So I popped the hood and looked at what had been done, and saw that at first glance, nothing had been done. I read the TSB procedure and it said to replace the EGR valve and reflash the ECU. After consulting the receipt from Yota C-bad apparently all they did was replace the intake manifold. I couldn't figure out why they would do this because as the furthest thing up stream from the doodoo source, this seems to be the worst item in-line to swap as a fix to a plugged egr circuit. Either they know something that I don't or they do this because it is by far the easiest thing to change. Anyways after this I finished my due-diligence of replacing plugs / marking and swapping coils / checking coolant etc. and taking it back to the dealer. Up to this point I had a very noticeable rough start when cold and even on restart at traffic lights occasionally but zero coolant loss from the reservoir (at least that I could see). I left the car at Toyota again thinking that this time I would get a new egr valve and possibly the egr pipe and be done, but I got a call saying that they wanted $270 for 2 hours labor to diagnose because it was not the egr. I approved it thinking they were being dumb. lol, they called me back to tell me they had bad news, and that the car was blowing white smoke and they needed to authorize a teardown to diag. further. (my fault for telling the writer that I was a tech.) she got me for 2 hours and now that I know that these cars have a problem blowing gaskets at cyl.1 I'm sure the dealer tech. just ran the car at high rev's till the gasket actually popped. DOHHH!!!! from the pic's that I have seen it is pretty consistent that these cars blow the gasket at the top coolant jacket next to cyl.1 modern precision manufacturing makes failures pretty consistent and predictable. Anyways I have a few pics of my egr pipe and valve and the point to point across measurements of a 12mm triple square next to a 10mm bi-hex socket. The triple square is slightly larger and fits more snuggly even though the steeper angles between points are not technically correct. Also there's a pic of a cheap little surface plate off amazon that I plan to use for a sanding block to do a poor man deck job on the head and block before reassembly. ironically this car's guts are all over the parts to my milling machine that I am in the middle of rebuilding. Meh, whatcha gonna do haha. For reference the factory motor gasket set P/N is 04111-37315 roughly $200 bucks from Toyota dealers on ebay. That's the gasket set for the whole motor.

 

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Ya that hose the OCC came with will completely collapse with all the vacuum that's present, if you have the nice catch can from ebay, just remove the dip stick while engine is running, definitely some vacuum in there!

 

Nice job, gasket surface very clean, and no broken windshield with the hoist!

 

I just removed the head from a 2009 Camry 2.4, thank goodness I had the bi hex, those bolts were on there good, creak, crack, bang!!

 

Was there a trick to setting up the VVT sprocket? Or do you just line up the plates on the chain to the dots on the sprockets?

 

I just line up the sprockets to the chain dots, everything should line up

 

Thanks! I guess everything is inside the front sprocket assembly.
I pulled a few heads on BMW's and had to be pretty careful when removing the chain and sprockets.
I would imagine the difficult part in replacing the head gasket would be space between the frame and engine.

 

That's correct if you remove the cams and sprocket as one peace, it will be very easy to getting them back together, just be very careful with the timen chain and sprockets dots,
as far is the clearance between frame and and the head, I personally removed the wollw manifulm and exhaust and it was very easy to remove the head, plenty of room

 

Okay, thanks. I meant between the timing stuff and frame. I hadn't really looked.
I've worked on saab's, NOT room to change the belts. You have to raise the motor! What a pain!