Best realistic MPG

I drive normally, 5 mph over speed limit and I'm getting 54 mpg in warmer weather. Only hypermiling technique I use is pushing EV button when speed is under 25 and running as much as I can on pure EV mode. I'll also do this at lights/stops signs as you can give it more power without the engine kicking on when in EV mode. I also use PWR a fair amount to get up to speed quickly and then glide vs. the long slow slog some recommend. That seems to work well for good mileage.

 

I have an 8 mile commute, mostly on the freeway. It's a slight downhill on the way to work, and obviously uphill on the way back. It's few blocks of stop and go on either end. I average 60-67 mpg on the way there and low 40's on the way there with the cruise at 65 both ways. Overall average MPG is 46.X mpg. I'm a rookie, so I just keep it out of the red except when getting on the freeway (I floor it.). The more highway driving I do, the better I get. On my last tank of gas I added 3 hours of highway driving to my usual short commutes and got my average up to 56 mpg for the tank.

 

Try not using CC on the uphill sections or the downhill sections. Try using warp stealth (high speed gliding) on the downhill sections. If you can glide down the entire downhill section then you can mitigate what you lost going up that section. I.e. 30mpg uphill and infinite going downhill equals 60mpg average.

 

So i dropped off the C at another Toyota Dealer where my friend works, and they replaced the ECU under warranty on Saturday. First town driving experience (using hypermiling techniques) 74.3 MPG, several subsequent city trips without hypermiling were ranging from 52MPG-60MPG. Highway driving 2 Lane 55MPH speed limit flat roads - 53.2 MPG, Interstate Highway at 75-80MPH 44.9MPG.

This is where I would expect to be - Sorry again for all of the thread congestion - but good to know there truly was something wrong with my car.

 

Fantastic news!

 

Glad someone finally found out what was wrong. How did they figure it out when the first dealer just gave you the runaround?

Dealerships - Years ago we had a Ford Ranger - made weird noises when we pressed the brakes. Dealership said nothing wrong. Took it to a small shop - who found the rear(?) brake shoes were cracked. Replaced shoes - noises stopped.

 

Your type of input is what these threads live for. You had what you thought was an issue and brought it up for everyone to digest. Some people came up with some quick and dirty solutions ... which didn't work. You didn't get satisfaction with one dealer, so you went to next step .. another dealer, which was able to help you out. That's great!

Now, pay it forward. Go back to the first dealer and explain how the second dealer was able to resolve the issue. Not only will you educate them, but if someone else has the same problem, hopefully it will get resolved properly.

Glad to hear the c is living up to your expectations now!

 

^^ I've been following your travails and am delighted with the resolution. Now you can get back to the mods, etc.

 

The dealer I took it too - I explained the issue, I told them it had to be something with one of the computers or the battery as the engine seemed fine. They tested the battery and it was fine, then they swapped out the computer with one from another C they had on the lot and gas mileage instantly increased with no more strange random rev noises. They told me that there was some issue and they did not think the computer was giving proper instructions to the car about how to handle power distribution. They also told me that they were not supposed to look at the car without the warning light - but I happened to have a friend at this dealership (I wont say which one since i don't want them to get in trouble for performing warranty maintenance out of standard protocol) - but I am happy with the results. Additionally I would agree with your assessment of dealer maintenance - they are quick to discount an issue, I feel like most of the time I have to tell them exactly what needs to be done to get an issue resolved - internet research is a beautiful thing for the consumer.

I have considered this but have decided against it as (like I mentioned to the poster above) I dont want to cause any problems for the dealership that was able to help me out. I guess that is the difference between a stealership that sells the most cars in my entire state, and a smaller dealership that truly cares about the customer. The only thing I will do differently is no longer visit the service dept at the dealer where I got the car - the sales experience was great - so overall I am still satisfied with the purchase - and my plates just came in today, so I did get the issue resolved relatively quickly. And yes - thanks to all that provided input - sorry to anyone if I came off as rude in any responses, I was extremely frustrated with the situation.

And yes back to the mods! My sharkfin USPS confirmation just came in - so I think it was delivered today unless they required a signature (im not at home) - either way, that should be installed this week - I unscrewed the OEM antenna last week and have been driving around without it for a few days - I don't listen to the radio usually anyway. Other near term plans - I will be ordering the DF210's the day they are available - can not wait to get this car lowered, the taillights need attention soon and if Tanabe is slow with the lowering spring release I may jump on the JDM taillight garnish first. Lastly - I did pick up a 4' x 8' sheet of MDF for a custom project when I get some time to do it - I am not going to go into details about it, but there will be pictures posted once its complete. Probably going to grab a roll of fatmat and start the soundproofing process too - I probably will not do this all at once but in sections as its hard to find large blocks of time with 2 jobs.

Anyway - thanks all for your support - and hopefully everyone has a better idea f what kind of mileage to accept, and more importantly - what kind of mileage is unacceptable.

 

it is Amazing,,, I love it. I will admit that now I'm not getting as much MPG because of 100+ temps in our area. I have the AC on blast just to keep myself cool. My last fill-up i only got 43. But I know it's due to cracking the AC in 100+ temps.

 

Yep. I imagine I would be the 30s MPG if I drove in NC.
I am just too wimpy to tolerate much humidity.

That said, F8L has a thread going on techniques to reduce the fuel economy hit in the summer. Check it out.

 

Using my techniques you too can achieve high mpg numbers like this. Simply send a self adressed stamped envelope to 666 It's Hot as Hell Sacramento, CA 66666. You will recieve a roll of tape to cover the A C controls you can't turn it on, a hand towel to whipe away sweat and a set of ear plugs so you can't hear your passengers complain.

 

^^ SCAM !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I provide detailed instructions how to open the window.

 

What tires are installed on your car? 15" or 16"? What type of fuel do you use? Have you checked your tire psi?

 

The ECU was replaced - I am now averaging about 47MPG on this tank rather than 36 MPG.

 

That is crazy. I live in the foothills east of sacrament on hwy 50. We already have a smart car (traded I our 2010 Challenger 6spd R/T) for it. We avg. 39mpg with that and we commute up hill on the way home. 125ft above sea level up to 1000ft. We use 91oct as reccomended by Mercedes as well the MB1 0w40 oil. I have been noticing that some of these C's that were first produced are some software issues. This next week we are taking "CeCe" as my wife calls her now, for a week of commuting to put some miles on her. Well see how she does.

 

You have a similar commute as I do with respect to the Sierra foothills except reversed. I drive from Woodland (50ft.) to Auburn (1,200ft.ASL). The best way to compensate for the mpg hit of the uphill section is to glide (warp stealth) as much as possible on the downhill section. For example, on my morning uphill commute I stick to 60mph and I get 52-54mpg. On the downhill commute I get 80+mpg. In the Smart it is hard to glide (no fuel use) but in the c it is simple. Learn how to glide, keep your speed low and you'll get excellent mpg despite the elevation gain.

 

We put the Smart in "N" down long hills. We don't use a gauge of any of that stuff just miles/gallons after each fill up. And what is gliding? Do tell! I love HP but it's as much fun to save it as it is to burn it.

 

A glide is similar to neutral except you do not have to take the car out of gear. With a simple adjustment of your foot pressure on the gas pedal you can turn off the engine and prevent regenerative braking (which slows the car down) and effectively glide using no gasoline for long distances. You should be doing this on every off ramp and at every stop sign/light when traffics permits doing this.

Here is a bit of info on how to drive efficiently using the HSI gauge in the Prius. It is easily adaptable to the Prius c if you use your imagination. HSI

In simple terms. When you start heading downhill towards Sacramento (where you would normally shift to neutral in the Smart) you can lift your foot off the throttle then reapply light pressure. You want just enough pressure so there are no regen bars showing on the HSI gauge and no bars in the Eco section of the gauge. This is like neutral but the engine is off assuming your engine was warmed up enough to all this stage of operation. Once you get this technique down you will notice your mpg climbing higher and higher such that it makes you want to glide at every opportunity.

This video applies to the c as well.

 

Thanks so much for the info! He comes great MPG!