Battery charge program for prime - AGM?

Test it with an electronic load tester, such as Solar BA9. See what kind of Cold Cranking Amps it currently measures. If you don't want to shell out, most automotive retailers that sell batteries will a pro-level tester of that ilk, will usually do the test for free.

(Sam, if you're commenting, I can't hear you.)

 

What exactly does that mean ??

 

From a post left by the person who STARTED this thread........and to whom my comment was intended.

 

He means you are on his ignore list.

 

Yes, a flooded cell lead acid battery, not an absorbent glass mat (AGM) lead acid battery. AGM's advantages are more durability to shocks and spill resistance...neither important for our cars.

The electronically controlled battery chargers need some voltage to get them started. It doesn't take much.

Is a new battery needed? Get the old one fully charged and drive to almost any place that sells car batteries. Ask for a free load test. That will show quickly if the battery has life left in it. The new battery needed would be a Group 140R, about $140 with free installation--if you go to the right place. That defines the size, shape, and terminal configuration. O'Reilly and NAPA have that size, among other stores. Some brands do not have this size. East Penn/DEKA might be the only U.S. battery maker who produces this size. The O'Reilly & the NAPA labeled batteries in this size are both DEKA.

 

I don’t know about other years but the 2020 manual says not to use higher than a 5 amp charger. Could the 10 amp cause a problem? The manual says the battery may explode if charged at a higher rate.

 

If you were to leave it on for some ridiculous amount of time, anything is possible.

But that's why a gave him the ~4 hour time limit.


Rob43

 

Ok, thanks!

 

There are lots of charger options available, that are at-or-under the 5 amp limit. I do ignore some recommendations, for example my 2010 manual says to disconnect the battery before charging. I find that onerous, have never done that, and never had a problem. But staying within the max amp rating is easy, so why not stick with it.

 

Well, here are a few reasons why:

1) First and foremost, the OP said his 12v battery was temporarily so dead that his brand new "the CTEK doesn't seem to recognize that there's a battery there" (Post #4). My experience with this is: You have to hit the nail with a BIG HAMMER to make it go in, meaning more amperage is needed to Force the battery into charging. Once the battery has been brought back to life by a dumb manual higher amp charger, something like the CTEK can finish the job.

2) The other reason is this: Virtually every 5 or less amp charger that's readily available on the market today is a computer chip driven charger, just like the CTEK unit that failed the OP in the first place.



Rob43

 

Do you think it would be wise for him to remove the battery from the car before using the 10 amp charger?

 

Those characteristics aren't important in most vehicles.

The important advantages are: Lower internal resistance (charges a bit faster) and highly resistant to sulfation, which is what kills most batteries and/or causes a loss of capacity. Thus they have a longer life and no need to check the "water" level.

 

No it doesn't.
It says not to actually charge it at a rate higher than 5 amps.
Just because a charger has a higher max. charging capacity, does NOT mean that it will actually charge at that higher rate.
Most of the time it won't even be close.

 

NO. Absolutely not necessary.

 

You are correct on both counts and I apologize for my sloppy quoting from the manual.

However, if a battery is as "dead" as the OP's seems to be, wouldn't a 10 amp manual charger start out charging at higher than a 5 amp rate?

 

Thanks, but I didn't ask if it was necessary, just if it would be wise.

 

Yes probably but it shouldn't last long......as in maybe 10 minutes or less.
And it is highly likely that his battery is TOAST already so it shouldn't make much difference.

 

SIGH.
NO, it is almost never "wise" to do something that is really not necessary.
Every extra operation that you do is just another chance to screw something up.

 

"Shouldn't" doesn't mean won't, right?

 

Yes. Major auto parts stores will perform a load test for free. Battery removal is necessary.