Bad gas???

"So you screwed up and mixed diesel fuel with the gasoline? Mix it off with more gasoline and just sell it."

Can you really imagine any other scenario happening?

 

if it acts funny on the way home go right back and take the service manager for a ride.

 

Can you post a notice somehow? For anyone who purchased gas, such-and-such date, at this station, had any problems, please contact...

 

>>if it acts funny on the way home go right back and take the service manager for a ride.
+1

A long time ago I had a bad spark plug wire on an older car I owned (before I knew anything about cars) and I thought the engine was coming apart.
If the plug was not seated right in order to be firing properly, it is very plausible that it was the cause.

I hope they were right and you don't have to deal with fuel issues.

Regarding how to learn more about cars and troubleshooting, may I recommend listening to NPR CarTalk (they're in reruns only now and you can download podcasts). It's entertaining and, over time, you will learn a good bit about diagnosing car issues. Admittedly, some of the topics can be either mundane or fantastical, but it is enjoyable, somewhat educational and low-impact as far as time/effort is concerned.

 

agreed. i'm no export, but a loose plug might do it. hopefully that's all it is. how old are the plugs and who installed them?

 

I'm no export either - but my car is.

 

i'm an import!

 

My mom was an import...I'm a domestic

 

How many miles on vehicle? Orig owner?
I did not replace my orig 2006 plugs until last summer at about 130k miles.
The Iridium tipped plus can be got at Amazon for about $8/per plug.
I am afraid I put em in too tight but maybe I should check.
Bottom line oil upon oil loss check the plugs I guess.

 

Really?? All these posts, and not one wise crack about having "bad gas"??

 

Sure you didn't eat one of those station tacos. Those can give you bad gas. Glad you're back to normal.

 

1. In the future, install only the correct NGK or Denso iridium spark plugs. Check the gap before installation, which should be 1.0 - 1.1 mm.
2. Buy a decent 3/8" torque wrench so that you can properly tighten the spark plugs, when it is time to do #1 above. The spec is 13 ft.-lb. Your idea of "tight" may not be the same as mine.

Sadly, based upon your two posts above, a reasonable conclusion would be that you did not do a good job three months ago. Having the correct tools available to you would help.

 

I hate to do this but having seen a ton of errors for torque on vehicles (purchased and freebies only), motrcycles, airliners in my 31 years of maintenance I will be brief. 1st the military and NASA have proven there are over 84 things than can affect torque as in contribute to getting you out of specs. So never take it lightly. The biggest probems commonly found are:
1. Failure to understand and adhere to range for temperature spec the torque is written for, cold or warm or hot?
2. There can be a cumulative difference of up to 60% on this alone if your using wet lubes as in lubed fasteners with cetyl(sp) alcohol (appears dry whitish but is a lube falling under wet), like the nickel high temp anti size you should have used, or some oil getting past the valve cover gasket in the spark plug well, water condensate in well, all cause torque to be reduced.
3. Dry torque is reached erroneously way too early by failing to properly clean out one option is to blow out with long reach air nozzel below last threads which can leave all kinds of debris, grit, carbon, metal flakes, burrs. I like to power wash engine or one can use canned steam cleaner when warm but not hot then blow out spar plug wells with compressed air to avoid the hazards of blowing them out when removed.
4 Miss alignment (out of 90 degree angles) slight tilting, not perfectly square or seated on tools and holding torque wrench improperly.

I will leave out the other 80.

SM-G900T ?