BACK UP CAMERA FOR 2012 PRIUS two TOUCH SCREEN- NON NAV

zebelkhan,
It all depends on how close to a ground the orange wire really is. If you measure the voltage on the camera red and black wires, do you have 3.3V ? I was hoping that just connecting the regulator ground to the orange wire would fix the HU sensing problem. Since you are still having problems, I would go back to what people have got to work:
regulator ground and camera black wire to car orange wire.
Since you are waiting for another camera, how hard would it be to tie both wires to the car orange wire and see if that fixes the problem with your current camera.

 

That is how I have it now. Regulator ground and camera black wire to car orange wire. It is not hard at all to connect both to orange wire. It was just too warm to do it the other day! I will get the chance to work on the car again on Wednesday and that is what I plan to do. Wish me luck!

By the way, voltage at the camera is 3.2 volts so I think I am fine there.

 

Sony CCD Car Rear View Reverse Camera for Toyota Prius 2012 | eBay

 

If you strip off the camera wire to the bare, three wire can pass the plate light assembly with a really tight fit. However, dremmel would seemed to be prudent course of action.

 

can anyone help? I was successfully installed my backup camera following this instruction with this camera


But now I can wind down or up the window even the car is totally power off (only windows, I can't turn on radio or any other things). So this mean there is still electricity running to all windows switches. On driver side, I can't control all other windows and there is no one click function to roll the window all the way down and up. Passenger side still works. For all the window buttons on every seat, I have to press twice for it to work. I tried re-program and didn't work. Assuming I connected the wire wrong or something because I could control window even though I don't need to press power button to start the car. Driver door lock and window lock button couldn't work either. But with key fob I can still lock the doors. Please help me~! I don't know where went wrong? Or who should I bring the car to? Not the dealer. They will ask me to remove camera first. Anyone know any prius specialist in Los Angeles? Every help is appreciated. Thanks in advance.

 

Best thing to do is go back and disconnect all the connection you made and see if it will operate normally. Then bring it to a shop and let the pros do it for you.

 

I had a similar problem with an Amazon.com camera that had no instructions. I assumed the "black" wire from the camera was a ground - big mistake and it took out the radio, AC and my KARR alarm - all on the same circuit. Luckily, I did not leave it on long enough to short a fuse. Maybe you did. If your camera has a RED and a BLACK wire, only connect the RED wire to a 12 volt power source. The video connection provides a ground.

 

Hi phoenixgreg,

Thanks for your suggestion. I didn't try your method yet. I was too worried that I might have damaged the car. I disconnect all the wires and now all the windows and locks are back to normal. (no re-program needed). and no power to window now when car is completely power off. I don't know what thing I did was wrong because the backup camera actually worked. until I know what I did was wrong, I won't touch that backup camera again. Thanks for your kind reply.

 

Do you know if the plug at the kick panel can be pulled out to get a little better access to those wires?

and I think I know the answer to this question, but the white, red, orange, and black wires in the plug above the headliner terminate at that headliner plug, right?

 

heyjack70,
I don't know about the kick panel plug, but pictures of the headliner connector have the wires going to one side
of the plug. The other side is empty. It would have been nice if Toyota had run the wires down to the hatch and
just left the camera unplugged .

 

I want to know if anyone is interested in installing a DVR for your rear camera?
Basically, ebay has a mini DVR that it can be installed near kick panel or rear of the Prius.

K1BO Mini s DVR 1CH TF Card Video Recorder DVR for IP Cameras Webcams DC 12V New | eBay

Since my camera's power is wired to the back wiper, it provides constant video feed.
So I was thinking it would be nice to have that video goes to the DVR so in case I get rear ended, I have a video feed back as evidence for my insurance/police report.

The DVR would either be screwed on to the rear hatch or near the kick panel.
If I install this on the hatch, then I would simply tap the 12v power off the rear window like the camera and splice the video signal on to the DVR.

If it near the kick panel then I would have to find a way to tap in to a 12v power off one of the kick panel wires. Since the video is already wired to kick panel, I would have to tap that in.

Ideally, I wouldn't have to access the DVR unless I get in accident so location isn't so crucial so I could hide it deep in the kick panel so it's out of the way.

Have not done the install but anyone is interested, I can take a video or series of pictures.

 

Hi! I have Toyota 2012 Yaris XP13 (French made). I install Toyota Touch HU and I would like to have rear camera.

I buy eom camera but my yaris has no wiring harness for rear camera.

I have no L148 connector, and pin 2 L149 is empty.

Today I power camera with 12V, now I see it needs only 6V

I have question to all of You how we number pins in HU.

Here is pic of my HU:

 

Update to my camera install:

After nearly a month and half, I decided to work on the camera again and try to fix it.

After ripping out the electrical connections both in the kick panel, and at the camera in the rear, and this time using the PROPER size T-Connectors, and soldering where wire was too thin to use a T-Connector, the camera is finally working!

Note to self: Take your time next time, work slow, and make sure each connection is solid before you move on...

Thanks to all for your help.

 

zebelkhan,
I was wondering how your install ended up. Glad everything works.

 

After reading every page on this thread and others, I got my camera up and working. Since this is my first post, I can't directly share the guide I made, but if you're interested message me and I'll get you the link.

Thanks to everyone for their help!

 

jonathaneugene,
Just curious, where did you tie into the car's wiring - the headliner or the kickpanel ?

 

The kick panel. I really wanted to tie it into the headliner, but it really is a BIG pain. I suspect it's even glued to the roof to some degree. I took off the roof handles, the dome light, pulled apart the side trim, everything. Then I thought, "hey why not just see how much it takes to go to the kick panel." Yeah, WAAAY easier.

I also made a point to not change the existing wiring as much as possible in case I ever wanted to revert back. I guess I have commitment issues. lol.

I can send you a message with the link if you want. I hate to think I spent the last two hours making that guide for nothing...

 

Jonathaneugene,
People have asked for a guide, so your effort may not go to waste. Maybe a sticky thread can be created with all the info in one place so people don't have to read through 18 pages of appends to get the info they need to do this.

Is there a forum moderator out there that can help us get this started ???

 

Hi all,
I just talked to Paradox and I think the best thing to do is create a new thread that will contain the "how to" info from this thread in the very beginning so you don't have to hunt through 18 pages of appends to find out what to do.
So what should be the recommended method ie:
1) using a 12V camera and a solid state relay or 3.3V camera and a voltage regulator ?
2) connect via the headliner or kick panel ? (my guess is kick panel)
3) anything else ??

Jonathaneugene,
Can you send me a link to your guide ?

 

I used a 12V camera, and altered the circuitry similar to what wilcoelec suggested. The only difference was instead of replacing both resistors with different resistors (which had different resistance), I just took out one of the two resistors and replaced it with basically a bead of solder.

I don't think anyone else has tried that before, but it made sense to me theoretically and ended up working. The bonus is that I only needed to connect three wires and they went straight to the factory wiring harness and everything is easily reversible to stock.