another victim of the "too tight oil filter cap"

18 ft lb's is NOT "finger tight."

That's more like hand tight and 1-2 to 3/4 turn.

Finger tight will leak. The "o" ring needs some compression to seal.

 

Actually, I can do 18ft lbs quite easily by hand...


iPhone ?

 

Why does it matter if its finger tight or hand tight? as long as its tight, that's all that matters. If it leaks, you'll learn from it, if it doesn't leak, then GREAT! you did a good job!

:END:

 

Again, the easiest solution is to mark the oil cartridge housing when it is torqued to 18 ft. lbs. In any subsequent oil change, all you need to do is to use a regular wrench and return it to the same position.

The "angular torque" position is fast and accurate every time.

 

I already have three different range torque wrenches, so I may as well use them.

 

The O-ring's contact/compression doesn't get any greater, between hand tight and torqued. It's on the barrel of the oil filter cannister, just beyond the threads, so as soon as it's into the engine cavity it's as compressed as it'll ever get. The torque is mainly to ensure the cannister doesn't work loose.

That said, I always use a torque wrench, or at least follow the amount of turn requirement. I've never understood the "hand tight" idea, too much riding on it.

 

I've been changing oil filters for the past 38 years (in my employment as a mechanic) and I hand tighten spin on oil filters. The only time I've had a leak is if the O-ring becomes dislodged or the canister is faulty or in a moment of brain fade I've failed to notice that the old seal is stuck to the block meaning the new seal is against the old. I'll correct my last post here, I mean't hand tight if you like rather than finger tight. No tools required to tighten. As Mendel Leisk said, tightening the canister will not increase the load on the O-ring in a Gen III Prius, but I have never seen a filter which is hand tight work loose. I think people think like, "I have the tool, it cost me money, I'm gunna use it as often as I can."

 

Maybe fine for normal people, but Toyota has to engineer for bozos like me. I succeeded in leaking an entire oil change after I changed oil in my CTh. I still don't understand how I managed that deed. Nowadays I gain satisfaction from seeing the filter canister abut the engine housing. Then I check the dipstick a couple of times over the next 48 hours.

 

And then there are those that don't do this for a living and rather be on the safe side, since they're probably not going to check for another 10,000 miles.

 

Pearl's filter was a "spin on" type. It was always tightened about 1/2 turn after the seal touched the block. Never leaked, never worked loose. Was always easy to remove, though because it was "in there", meaning no room to put my body parts needed, I often used the tool (metal band type) to get it loose. Just changed the oil on Pearl for the current owner, and he had a "filter socket" type tool. Still did it with the "knob" type ratchet as it was not too tight. Much easier with the socket as my arm and hand were in "free air".
Looking forward to getting my socket for Pearl S in the next few days, so I can change the oil. It's now about 300km over 8000 km (and probably 1/2 a year late).
Toyota would be upset, I don't think the lateness is anything to worry about.

 

More like: "I've got a torque spec, got the tool, why the heck not use it?"

 

Well, DHL is playing "we'll deliver it when WE want to" with my filter housing socket.

So I did the change today using the steel band type oil filter wrench I used on Pearl's spin-on filter. It started to turn the housing (about 5 deg) then it stopped moving. They just love to make these things (the band tool and the filter housing) as slippery as they can! I got some rubber self sealing tape (it seals with itself on contact) and wrapped one turn around the filter housing. Then my band tool worked just fine. Got the oil change done with no further problems.

Well, except my ramps only lift the car about 5". So I made new ramps, 4' long, with over 9" lift. Hard to store as they are so long but they work great. Made with 2x12 fir and a stack of 2x8 lumber deck screwed together. Put a piece of 2x4 at the top end so I can drive up confident I'll stop without going over the end. Made lots of sawdust too.

I folded the door all the way and creased the hinge a bit, then used a plastic pin to hold it in place, as there is a hole there marked "service". I'll have to ask the dealer for the correct one. I also have to buy a new one of the small size. I broke the head of it when I removed it. They get all jammed up with sand.

When I was finished I took the band tool and scratched the inside with sandpaper, degreased it, and coated it with Silicone Sealant. If it doesn't rub off it should grip any filter or filter housing properly. Still looking forward to the proper tool. I did the oil change for the new owner of Pearl and it was so easy as he had the socket filter tool!

So I'm good for another 8000 km!

Oh, and yes, torquing the filter housing is silly. Hand tight is just fine. The "O" ring seal is not dependent on how much you tighten the housing. I used "Lubriplate" grease on the "O" ring just because I'm anal. I tightened the housing just slightly more than hand tight. The "anti-loosen" device should stop the housing from backing off, though I've never seen a filter do that if tightened even hand tight. If put on loose and forgotten it could loosen I suppose.

 

Filter cap is too tight for me. My solution is using my foot instead of my arm with a 12-inch breaker on a TOY640 wrench. Thumping doesn't work. I stick my foot underneath the car and step on the breaker until it starts moving.

 

So-o-o-o-o, THAT's *why* it called FOOT-pounds of torque (wink,wink)?!?!?

 

LoL...

what about when its Inch pounds?

 

A: you multiply by 12 ( ×12 )!

 

I mean, what do you call when its inch pounds since you said foot pounds is when you use your foot? lol...

 

"Twelve-per-foot" (wink,wink)!

 

lol... sicko

 

Something to remember, the oil bi pass system requires some pressure on the filter against the inner spring. If the filter housing isn't seated properly there might not be enough pressure on the filter element and filtering efficiency could be compromised. I like to turn the filter cap till it makes contact with the housing then back it off a 1\16th of a turn or so. This has worked well for my Prius and Tundra.