Adding smartkey door handle (rear or pass side)

That is a very interesting idea... and it might be a good solution too. As you can see above, we've been thinking about trying to tie into the driver's side connections for the passenger side handle which may or may not work for the passenger side, but definitely won't work for the hatch as the hatch doesn't have a touch sensor, but rather a real push button. If we can get this to work, then as you say, we won't need to worry about adding any handles or buttons or anything. The Gen III does definitely turn on the lights as you approach the car, although I don't know if that only happens at night or during the day too... I'll go out and check after I finish this post.

This is very interesting and I had never seen this info before. Fortunately (or maybe unfortunately) I believe the Gen III is the same... I know that it has several oscillators in the places you described. what I didn't realize was that those were transmit only and it had a different receiver. I assumed that all of them transmitted and received.

I have determined that my one door SKS prius does not have the oscillators on the passenger side and rear, so unless the one in the driver's door is strong enough to trigger the key as you approach the back or other side of the car then we will need to add more oscillators, but that may be easier than trying to get the touch sensors and everything else working.

Let us know what you find

Thanks again,
Brett

 

Well, I just went outside to test it and discovered that my Gen III does indeed turn the interior lights on as you approach the car even in the daylight. (Which doesn't really surprise me, but I know from the auto headlight project that it does have a light sensor on the dash, so it's conceivable that it might have left the lights of during the day).

Also, as expected, the lights did not turn on as I approached the passenger side or rear, so we definitely will need to get additional oscillators installed no matter what we do.

Now, as far as your hack goes, how did you get it to unlock the car as you approached?

Thanks,
Brett

 

Ok, [Here is] all the relevant information I could dig up on the Gen III system.

Looks pretty much the same as the Gen II in implementation, so that means at the very least we would need to get the 134khz signal outside the car at the rear/passenger areas. I assume the only difference is the 2 missing oscillators/antennas and door handle assemblies.

Only problem is Toyota famously uses different wiring harnesses for each option, so it's highly unlikely the car is wired for the additional components, which is the most challenging problem.

At some point I'll try to get my hands on a friend's Gen III and do some more through investigation. It would be awesome to be able to offer an upgrade kit that's easy to install!

 

Also [Here is] a list of all parameters that can be customized on a Gen III.

 

Very interesting info. I just glanced over it now, but I'll go back and read it shortly.

Unfortunately I think it's a bit more than that. If you look at my post a couple of pages back, I actually tried to move the driver's side door handle (which is where the oscillator/antenna and touch sensors are) to the passenger side. I got it connected to the certification ECU, however, it still didn't respond. At this point I believe that either the ECU on my one door SKS car simply doesn't support three door SKS or (more likely) isn't programmed to recognize the additional sensors.

When I did the test I didn't check to see if the oscillator/antenna was active when it was connected to the passenger side, so I suppose it's conceivable that it was working, but the ECU was ignoring the input from the touch sensor, but I suspect that everything is disabled.

What I found is that the wiring for the SKS handle on the passenger door is in place in the door itself, but it ends at a junction block near the passenger footwell and doesn't actually make it to the ECU. However, if one has to run additional wiring, the wiring through the door would be the most difficult to run, so it's good that it's already in place. Going from the junction block in the passenger footwell to the ECU (behind the lower glove box) will be quite easy to run.

When I had things apart I didn't really spend any time trying to see what (if any) wiring was present for the back hatch, other than verifying that the back hatch wires definitely were not present on the connector that plugged into the ECU. I don't know if there are no wires at all for the back hatch SKS or if like the passenger door there is a wiring harness in the back hatch for it.

If you need me to check anything specific on my one door SKS Prius let me know... I'd be happy to open it up again.

Thanks again for your help with this,
Brett

 

I would bet you lunch they have a different ECU. However, there is nothing preventing you from wiring the oscillators in parallel. Wire the passenger door to the same connections as the driver. Of course, the car will think you are standing at the driver's door, but it's a simple matter to reprogram the system so that all doors unlock with the driver's.

Yes, I think they have different firmware.

This is good news, it makes it a little easier at least. What about the rear though? That could be more difficult!

I would guess there are no wires. Toyota has been doing this for a long time now, if they can save on wire because the option isn't installed, they usually do!

Could you investigate the true situation in the rear?

No Prob!

 

I was really hoping that wasn't the case, but somehow my wishful thinking doesn't seem to be helping much with this project

Can you do that? I'm not sure how much of this thread you've read, but that was one of the things we were considering trying, but I didn't know if it would work or not. I would have tried it myself, but I only have one SKS enabled handle and I was hesitating purchasing another one before I had a good idea about whether it would work or not. The fact that the system would think that everything was coming from the driver's side didn't bother me, but I just had no idea what would happen if I connected two oscillators or two touch sensors in parallel.

There's another member here, peterjmc, who already has 3 door SKS, but he wants to try to get the SKS system to work on his rear doors too. He's going to try to wire his front passenger SKS handle in parallel with his driver's side handle to see if that works... if so then his plan is to add SKS handles to his rear doors and wire them in parallel with the front doors. He was hoping to try that experiment this afternoon, so we may know for sure whether wiring two handles in parallel will work shortly.

Yes, I'll see what I can find there. I doubt I'll have a chance to play with it today, but I should have some time tomorrow evening. Frankly, for me the hatch SKS would be much more useful than the passenger side anyway.

I'll let you know what I find.

Thanks again,
Brett

 

On the Gen II paralleling the oscillators do indeed work, as I have tested it for another project. However, on it, the oscillators have 3 wires, one is +12, one is GND, and one is Data in. On the Gen III, it looks like there is only 2:



Here's something you can safely try that will verify this would work w/o needing to buy a part first:

Go to the Rear and remove the floor cover and tray, and locate the cargo area oscillator. Toyota refers to it as the "Indoor Luggage Compartment Electrical Key Oscillator" or "Indoor Electrical Key Oscillator for Rear Floor" depending on which diagram you look at. It's seen on this diagram described as the latter:



Disconnect the 3 pin connector (only 2 wires used) and remove the oscillator. There are the 2 wires, and if it has a metal bracket, that should be grounded as well. Use a single wire and ground the bracket to the car securely somewhere outside, then take another 2 conductor piece of wire, such as light speaker wire, and hook the oscillator's pins 1 and 3 to pins 5 and 6 respectively on the Certification ECU. You can do this by using pins shoved into the ECU connector and wrapping the wire around it. On the oscillator side, take 2 pieces of wire insulation where the inner diameter is about the same size as the pins on the oscillator. Poke each of the stripped ends of your 2 conductor wire in the holes of the insulation and shove them on to the pins. Make sure there are no shorts to the adjacent pins!

Here is a diagram showing both connectors and how they should be connected:


Place the newly hacked-in oscillator outside the car somewhere on the passenger side, well away from the metal of the car.

Once you have this set up, shut all the doors on the car and lock it. First, verify the SKS still unlocks the drivers door as before. Lock the car again and wait for the interior lights to go off. Now bring the fob within 3 feet or so of the hacked-in oscillator, the car should light up the interior lights, showing that it indeed did detect the fob. If this works, it shows us we can parallel the oscillators as on the Gen II. Then the rest is simply a button trigger! In fact, if you want to test it fully, simply bring out pins 19 (black wire) and 21 (yellow wire) as well, and when you momentarily ground 19 with the fob near the oscillator, it should lock the car, and 21 should unlock it. (if it works like the Gen II system)

 

I'll try this tomorrow evening while I'm checking out the wiring situation in the hatch.

Unfortunately I think that it might be more involved than just a button trigger. Unlike the push button on the door handle of the Gen II's, the Gen III handle has two touch sensors... one for lock and one for unlock. I don't know if simply grounding those pins will work or not... but I'm certainly willing to try it and see how it goes

 

I know these are a little more money for wire connections.
But you can splice and remove onto any wire for testing and figuring out what is what. Instead of cramming wire in and running into possible shorts and loose connections.

Posi-Tap- No Crimp Tap

Keep up the good work.
Trying to help.
my2cents.

 

At least on the Gen II, the touch sensor (for unlock) has it's electronics built into the door handle, and simply asserts ground when it detects your hand. The Lock button on the Gen II is a simple contact closure, but on the Gen III it looks like they just added another touch sensor is all. I bet it's the same open-collector signal.

 

BRILLIANT!!! I did this and it is exactly what I wanted to do. It doesn't bother me that the other doors don't have the sensors. Not really needed in my opinion, since most of the time I am going to the drivers door first. Now all I have to do is grab the drivers side handle, unlock the doors and I can go to any other door and open it as I need. Thank you for pointing this out. :cheer2:

 

Oh, I didn't realize the Gen II had a touch sensor, but my only experience with a Gen II was a 5 minute test drive before I bought my Gen III. If the electronics are in the handle then that would certainly make life easier.

I did take a few minutes to pull out the tray in the back and find the oscillator... It will be very easy to get to and attempt to connect in parallel with the drivers door one tomorrow.

 

Once you get the oscillator out, I'd love it if you could slide open it's housing and snap a few decent pictures of both sides of it's board. If it's put together like the ones in the Gen II, a couple of small flat screwdrivers will disengage the tabs and the bottom slides out.

 

pEEf, if you still have access to TIS, can you do me a couple of favors before I get started this evening?

1 - Can you let me know which pin on the oscillator I'm going to remove is the ANT1 connector and which is the ANT2 connector and what color wires are going to those pins? I'm not sure if the oscillator is polorized and I don't want to accidently reverse the polarity if it is. If you can just post a copy of the wiring diagram for the internal luggage area oscillator... similar to the one you posted for the driver's side SKS handle that would be great.

2 - Can you see how you access the external rear oscillator? I'd like to check to see if there is a wiring harness back there, but judging by the picture I'm thinking the bumper has to come off. I'm not totally against removing the bumper, but it might be more work than I'll have time for tonight. However, if it can be accessed from under the car or from the inside of the car then that might be easier. Any other tips on exactly where it would be located would be helpful too. That's the problem with looking for something that might not be there... you don't know if you just didn't find it or if it doesn't actually exist

3 - Finally, can you look over (or maybe even post) the instructions for removing the interior panel on the rear hatch... at least far enough for me to get to the hatch switch so I can check to see if there's any wiring there for the additional button (The 3 door SKS has lock and unlock buttons, the 1 door SKS just has an 'open hatch' button). It doesn't look terribly complicated or involved, but it's always easier with directions Even if you don't post it, if you could just let me know if there's anything that's not terribly obvious and the location of any screws that need to be pulled before I try to pull out the panel.

I'll definitely take pictures of the oscillator and anything else that looks interesting as I'm working.

Thanks much,
Brett

 

Yes, I have access.

This is why I included the connector diagrams. Toyota uses the "ANT1/2" designation on the driver/passenger door module, but on the others it's CLG and CLGB. Those are pins 1 and 3 on the oscillator, and pins 5 and 6 (respectively) on the ECU. I also took the time to indicate the wire colors if you carefully look at my diagram. Green and Brown.

Here's what TIS has to say:

Yes, be sure not to drop or bang the oscillator too much, as the antenna is a piece of ferrite (ceramic).

I didn't find anything too informative, looks like it all unsnaps, just like in the Gen II. Remove the upper trim (above the window toward the roof) first, then the two sides, then the bottom. It's just those tight snap fasteners. I don't see any screws. The only "trick" is see is clearing the built-in handles, so remove it from the top first, if you start it the bottom, the handles will prevent removal, or you'll break something.

Awesome, thanks. Just be careful with that oscillator! =)

 

hehe... I saw the diagram, but I seem to have some sort of connector diagram dislexia and I can never remember exactly how the diagram is oriented... whether pin one is on the left if you're looking at the connector with the wires going out behind it, or if pin one is on the left with the connector oriented with the wires coming out toward you. I figured if I had wire colors too then I could be absolutely certain to get it right

I did actually notice that (although I think it's green and red rather than green and brown), but in the case of the connector for the door handle the wire color changes and the green wire that comes out of the ECU winds up as a yellow wire that connects so the oscillator in the door handle. I wasn't sure if there were any color changing tricks for the rear oscillator or not, but as I said above I just want to be certain that I get everything right.

Looks like the bumper does need to be removed to find the external rear oscillator, but it also doesn't look like too much trouble to remove it either. I'll see if I have time for that tonight too... hopefully so.

I wasn't planning on throwing it around too much, but I certainly didn't realize it's as fragile as they seem to imply it is. I'll definitely treat it gingerly.

Thanks... I didn't really expect it would be too difficult, but every now and then they throw in a hidden screw or something, so it's good to know that's not the case here.

Thanks again for your help with this I'm hoping this will have promising results.

 

So, here are my plans for tonight... let me know if you think I'm missing something or want me to test something else.

(Carefully) take the rear interior oscillator out and connect it to the ECU in parallel with the driver's door handle oscillator, running the wires through the passenger door so the oscillator can remain outside of the car.

Check to see if SKS on the driver's side continues to work, and check to see if it now detects the key as I approach the passenger side of the car and turns on the interior lights. I'll also leave the key on the passenger side near the oscillator and see if the touching the driver's handle will work to lock and unlock the car.

Assuming this all works, I'll also connect wires to pins 19 and 21 on the ECU and run them out the passenger door, then try to ground them with the fob near the oscillator to see if that locks and unlocks the car.

Next I'll remove the interior panel on the hatch to take a look at how the existing switch is connected and see if there is wiring and a harness to be able to easily connect the two button SKS switch assembly. If so, I'll try to determine how far the wiring goes... if not I'll try to determine how wiring could be run for the new switch assembly.

Next, assuming I have time I'll take off the rear bumper cover and see if there's wiring and a connector for the rear external oscillator. Again, if anything exists I'll try to trace it back and see how far it goes. If not, I'll try to determine how wiring might be run for it.

Finally, I'll disassemble the oscillator and take some pictures, and also take pictures of anything else of interest, then I'll reassemble everything and come back here and we can figure out our next plan

Brett

 

Understandable. Toyota's diagrams (and most others) are always viewed from the "business end" which means where the pins and sockets are, not the wires.

Whoops, now you've got my Lysdeksia going! =)

Generally Toyota only changes colors when a part with wiring is made by another supplier. All the core car harnesses are usually color-consistent. FYI, most of the SKS stuff is made by Tokai Rika. They seem to prefer different colors than Toyota likes to use.

Hmm. Looks like you'd need to remove it if you were trying to gain access to the antenna, but since you don't have one, all you need to do is verify if there is wiring for it, correct? (Unfortunately I think you will find it's not there)

Looks like the antenna wire (R19) passes through a grommet into the body and joins up with the wire coming from the door lock motor (R18). If this is easy to see, then it'll save you a bumper removal.

 

Well, I had a few minutes to spare, so I figured I'd get some of this out of the way now. I pulled the oscillator and opened it up and took a few pics, which you can find below. There's not really much to the thing, but if you want other pics or different angles, let me know. I also confirmed that the wires leading to it are, as you said, red and green.

I also took a look to see if I could find the wiring harness that would lead to an external oscillator. After removing the tray in the luggage compartment I did find a grommet that may be where the wire is supposed to come through, but as you can see in the photo below, there is nothing there. (the photo was taken from inside the car looking out the back hatch. You can see the power lock motor above the spare tire and the grommet off to the right). I removed the grommet and looked through it, thinking that the harness might be behind it, but I couldn't see much and there definitely wasn't a harness there. I was just in the parking lot at work and I didn't want to spend too much time on this, so I didn't get under the car to see if I could find anything there. I'll try to search a bit more tonight.