3Gen 100,000 mile club

I found out when the light come on when I took a corner too hard. I don't know the rate yet, still monitoring. I usually drive at 75-80mph on highway. My tires 215/50/17 all around

 

Since the dash light let you know, the consumption rate will probably be high. Probably a quart every 1,500 miles or so as the engine lost lubrication for a period of time. Toyota spec in the owners manual is that a quart every 600 miles is "ok".

If possible, try driving a little slower as consumption increases with higher rates of speed. Keep an eye on the dipstick frequently and top up as needed.

Our 2010 Prius II consumes at a rate of a quart every 6500 miles. Found the oil consumption around 120 k miles (has 146 k miles now) by checking the dipstick. Since finding this, I have done many things at trying to reduce the rate(it started out at a quart every 4500 miles), but the best thing has been to take 5 mph off my usual traveling speed. Where the freeway speed out here is 65 mph, instead of averaging 70-75 mph, I travel in the 65-70 mph range. Not impeding traffic flow but not blazing a trail either.

 

Now at 120k on my 2010 Prius. My car overall is still driving like the day I got it (bought it used with 40k miles). Below are some quotes from the my local Toyota dealer that I recently received for some of the recommended service items on this forum.

Spark plug replacement: $275
Transaxel coolant replacement: $225
Engine coolant replacement: $175
Inverter coolant replacement: $175
Brake flush: $90
PCV valve replacement: $50
Fuel injector cleaning (includes throttle plate cleaning): $160

Some of the quotes above seem rather expensive so I'll be calling around to other dealers.

1) Did you replace the HV battery pack?: No
2) Did you replace the hybrid transaxle fluid?: Not yet
3) Did you replace the brake pads?: Yes, brake pads and rotors a while back
4) Your lifetime MPG (if available)?
5) How often do you change your oil? What brand / product did you use?: Every 10k miles at the dealer

 

I've 113,000 on mine. Bought it new.

1) Did you replace the HV battery pack? No
2) Did you replace the hybrid transaxle fluid? No
3) Did you replace the brake pads? No
4) Your lifetime MPG (if available)? 52.9
5) How often do you change your oil? What brand / product did you use? 10,000, dealer only
6) How about post a picture of 100,000 miles on ODO? Ok
7) Other? No dents, no dings, no accidents & uses no oil

Mileage by GardenWeasel posted Jan 16, 2017 at 7:25 PM

 

If you haven't done this work yet, definitely shop around. There are only two coolant loops. The transaxle coolant and inverter coolant replacement is the same thing!

For reference, I had Luscious Garage in San Francisco do the spark plug change and coolant replacement last February. The cost including labor, parts, recycling fees, and sales tax was:

Spark Plugs: $128.29
Engine coolant replacement: $135.51
Transaxle/inverter coolant replacement: $108.76

Fuel injector cleaning seems unnecessary. Just run a bottle of Techron. The throttle plate looked almost pristine on my car at about 150,000 miles, and is a fairly easy DIY to check and clean (see Nuts about Bolt's videos stickied in the maintenance subforum).

Brake flush is also probably not necessary. I asked Luscious about it for my car 5.5 year old car at the time with 150,000 miles, and they said they haven't found it to be necessary at that mileage. I know some here recommend every 3 years based on the Canadian maintenance schedule, so it doesn't hurt to do it. I chose to test the brake fluid with the Phoenix Systems brake fluid test strips ($11-12 on Amazon) for reassurance. I actually waited until last night to do it at 167,368 miles, and the fluid tested like almost new (between 0 and 10 ppm copper corrosion level... replacement level is 100 ppm, required replacement level is 200 ppm).

PCV valve is probably worth $50 to do. I did mine myself for the cost of the part (about $7?) when I had my intake manifold off for cleaning, but otherwise it is kind of hard to reach from the bottom.

 

I hit 100k miles today. Bought my Prius brand new. Needed both front axles replaced. Regular maintenance besides that at which I started to do since 70k.

1) Did you replace the HV battery pack? No
2) Did you replace the hybrid transaxle fluid? Yes
3) Did you replace the brake pads? No
4) Your lifetime MPG (if available)? 48mpg. Best 59mpg. Worst 34mpg.
5) How often do you change your oil? Was every 10k. Now switching to 7.5k.
What brand / product did you use? Mobil 1 0W-20.
6) How about post a picture of 100,000 miles on ODO?
7) Others- Axle problems from 60k to 99k-over 2 years. Finally got it resolved by Toyota. One good thing: I started doing my own maintenance b/c I don't trust them anymore.

 

1) Did you replace the HV battery pack? No
2) Did you replace the hybrid transaxle fluid?
No, due shortly
3) Did you replace the brake pads? Yes, both front and rear discs and pads have been changed
4) Your lifetime MPG (if available)? Approx 52mpg
5) How often do you change your oil? 10,000 miles
What brand / product did you use? 0w/30, normally a branded one
6) How about post a picture of 100,000 miles on ODO?
Oops, I cracked 100,000 about 15 weeks ago now on 134,000 and climbing rapidly
7) Others
It’s a taxi, used daily, owned and operated by me, so far I have replaced:
Pads and discs all round
12v battery
Carpet mats sets x 5 (genuine ones)
Wiring to the drivers headlamp, original melted, bad connection and high resistance
Will need a new a/c condenser shortly, old one was damaged by a bird strike

Aside from that it has been total reliability, I bought it with 41,000 miles on it 2 years ago and it still deals with the daily grind without and issues




2010 Gen 3

 

I'm a bit past 100.000 miles too (last fuel at 162.322 km, so now probably at 162.500 km, almost 101.000 miles). It's a 2011 model and I've owned it from 104.000 km (64.600 miles) since april 2014.

1) Did you replace the HV battery pack? No
2) Did you replace the hybrid transaxle fluid? No
3) Did you replace the brake pads? No
4) Your lifetime MPG (if available)? 4.22 l/100 km = 55.66 miles/gallon, I rarely have highways and I make it a sport to save fuel
Benzinverbrauch: Toyota - Prius - Prius III - Spritmonitor.de
5) How often do you change your oil? What brand / product did you use? Have changed it once, will change it again next year, coinciding with the 2-yearly MOT check, making it about 33.000 km or 20.000 miles. I believe they put 5W30 in.
6) How about post a picture of 100,000 miles on ODO? Sorry.
7) Others
No issues with the car whatsoever. I love it, it's great. A lot better than my previous Fiat diesel which had the PCV pipe freeze causing the oil to find all kinds of ways out of the engine (like through the turbo) causing a hefty repair.

 

) Did you replace the HV battery pack? NO
2) Did you replace the hybrid transaxle fluid? Yes @ 50K and another planned for this weekend
3) Did you replace the brake pads? No
4) Your lifetime MPG (if available)? 51.2 over 96k miles tracked (i missed some fill ups)
5) How often do you change your oil? What brand / product did you use? Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 0w-20 every 10k with Toyota oil filter
6) How about post a picture of 100,000 miles on ODO? Funny story about that. I didn't plan it but I hit 100k pretty much as I rolled into my garage yesterday. And there she sits waiting for oil change and another transaxle fluid change tomorrow.
7) Others
I've had no issues with the car, really drives as good as day one. Other maint I've done include engine coolant at 90k, brake fluid at 90k, tires at 60k, EGR tube cleaned at 90k wasn't too bad. cabin and engine filters as needed. I really enjoy this car, plan to drive it another 50k or so while saving for a new one in a few years. Cannot recommend a prius enough to my friends.

 

Under 3k to go here.

 

RHD Prius, 2011, S-LED. In 2016 was exported from Japan to Russia with mileage about 120K km. Since then, the car has been operated by me in Siberia with poor roads, heat more than 30 degrees in the summer and freeze close to 40 degrees below zero in the winter (not all winter, of course). Now it's 204K km (about 127K miles).

1) Did you replace the HV battery pack? No. No any errors.
2) Did you replace the hybrid transaxle fluid? Yes, one time at 150K km.
3) Did you replace the brake pads? Only front, at 170K km. Change brake fluid too.
4) Your lifetime MPG (if available)? It depends heavily on operating conditions, from 4.7 to 10 liters per 100 kilometers.
5) How often do you change your oil? What brand / product did you use? Every 7K km in engine with oil filter. Oil original Toyota 0W-20 with filer VIC 0-119. Often you have to work hard to find no fake.

- Change coolant in both contours at 130K km;
- Change front suspension shock absorbers (KYB New SR) at 180K km;
- Change steering rack at 180K km;
- Change windshield washer pump at 180K km;
- Common operations like cleaning the throttle, EGR valve, etc.

Problems:
- It’s hard to get work on revocable campaigns;
- Almost no competent specialists who at least do not spoil the car;
- I suspect that after a short time the engine oil will begin to decrease;
- The battery capacity has noticeably decreased, although the problems are still far away, a large voltage spread is also not observed;
- A lot of creaks in the cabin;

 

Nearing 102k miles here. Runs same as ever, with no degradation in fuel consumption.

 

My 2012 Prius Touring reached 169,000 km today.

1) Did you replace the HV battery pack? No, but the battery doesn't seem to hold its charge as well it used to.
2) Did you replace the hybrid transaxle fluid? No. I have thought about doing it but is hesitant as I have to jack up the entire car.
3) Did you replace the brake pads?
- Replaced rear pads after caliper pin rusted out and heard grinding noise at 100k. Put pin back in after sanding off rust.
- Replaced rear pads and caliper pin after hearing grinding noise after winter at 130k.
- Replaced rear pads + rotors + caliper pin boots at 150k after seeing uneven brake pad wear during cleaning. There was plenty of meat left maybe I should have not replaced it?
At 169k light rust seen on rear rotor surface after driving. It means the outer pad is not touching the rotor. Planning to replace whole rear LH caliper in the next two/three months. Waiting for part to arrive.
4) Your lifetime MPG (if available)? 4.5 L/100km or so
5) How often do you change your oil? What brand / product did you use? DIY oil change every 8000km. I use 0w20 in the winter and either 5w30 or 5w20 in the summer. I use whatever brand that is on sale (Mobil 1, Pennzoil, Quaker State or Valvoline).

I have had a whole bunch of problems with my rear brakes. I ordered a new Raybestos rear caliper and is waiting for it to arrive. I hope it is similar to OEM. $130 for aftermarket and $220+tax for OEM.

I am starting to hear my engine rattle on startup. I am guessing this is related to the notorious EGR issue. There is some rattling noise from the front dash every full moon.

No burning oil. Perhaps it is because I change my own oil. I will be changing my coolant soon.

 

@Siward, your rear brake woes are very likely due to misalignment of the rear caliper piston. There's a four-spoke pattern on the face of that piston, and it must be oriented like an "X", so that a stubby pin on the back of the inner brake pad is between the raised spokes, and well seated thus. This locks the piston prevents it from rotating when you apply the parking brake. If it does manage to rotate, the spoke rides up on the pin, causing bevelled wear of the inner pad, about 50% of the inner face of rotor to go rusty (due to lack of contact), and steady brake drag.

I would:

(Disconnect 12 volt negative cable at the outset)

1. Remove the rotors, clean them up, burnish with a wire brush on a drill, something like that.
2. Reinstall with new pads/shims. Apply something like Permatex Anti-Seize sparingly on all points of contact between pads, shims and the caliper "fingers".
3. Screw in the caliper piston, and ensure it's spoke pattern is in X orientation.
4. Remove, clean and relube caliper pins, with something like Sil-Glyde Brake Lubricant. Reinstall the pins, ensure they're moving freely.
5. Reassemble brake. Push down brake pedal multiple times, to take out excess travel. Do NOT use parking brake.

(Reconnect 12 volt negative cable)

(Attached is some Repair Manual info on the brakes, shows the proper rear brake caliper piston orientation.)

Take the car for a short test drive. When you return, chock the front wheels, apply/release the parking brake several times, raise the the rear enough that the wheels are clear, and check how free spinning they are. They should easily spin a couple of revolutions with a good push. There is a minor amount of drag due to disk brake, but not a lot. Brakes in good order should spin like this:

My method:

1. Chock rear wheels, front and back.
2. Jack up front at the front/central jacking point*.
3. Place safety stands, not at the scissor jack supports though, see pic below.
4. Jack up the rear at the rear/central jacking point*.
5. Place safety stands, not at the scissor jack supports though, see pic below.


(Four red bars. Front of car at right.)

* shown in Owner's Manual, page 423:

 

@Mendel The first replacement was probably bad luck due to rust on the caliper pin. I admit that I didn't take note of the piston orientation during that time. This probably was been my mistake. We will never know.

I took note of of the piston orientation after the second pad replacement. Outer rear pad wore at a slant (due to piston orientation). Bottom of pad reached metal. I replaced the caliper pin this time (that was rusted previously). Put wire brush in pin hole and lubed everything.

The third replacement I not only took note of the orientation, but checked the orientation again after pumping the brakes to ensure that it didn't spin after expanding. I didn't actually need to replace the pad, but I did so because of a bit of uneven brake wear on the outer pad. The inner pad wore very evenly, so it wasn't due to the piston orientation. In the end, I sanded off a bit of outer pad ends to ensure that it slides. I also replaced the rotors for extra insurance. Switched to 3M lube from Prematex like the one NutzAndBolts uses.

Later, I replaced the rear pin boots and end stubs when I replaced the front pads. Lubed everything again before winter.

The fourth replacement which is coming up looks like a seized caliper. I am replacing the LH rear only this time. There is light rust on the surface of the rotor even after driving. It means that the outer pad is not touching the rotor at all.

In summary (all for rear brakes):
1) Pad #1, rusted/seized pin
2) Pad #2, own negligence with piston orientation
3) Pad #3 + rotor, slight uneven outer brake pad wear. Replaced rotors for insurance.
4) Pad #4, replace LH caliper. Not sure if pad is going to be replaced yet but it will be #4. Same wheel from #1.

 

Sounds like you're well aware of the piston orientation, guess I've bent your ear before? Yeah, in light of your last sentence, sounds like the caliper pins are not moving freely, an ongoing issue.

 

I'm at 120K now on my 2014 PiP.

1) Did you replace the HV battery pack? no, it's got a 140K warranty
2) Did you replace the hybrid transaxle fluid? no
3) Did you replace the brake pads? no
4) Your lifetime MPG (if available)? 55 or so
5) How often do you change your oil? What brand / product did you use? 7500 miles (I do a tire rotation and oil change at 7500 instead of 5k rotation/10k rotation+change)
6) How about post a picture of 100,000 miles on ODO? I missed it.
7) Others - I'm going to have my local shop change the plugs, inverter coolant and engine coolant. Too much to take off to get to the plugs!

 

I am a little bit past the 100k club @ 204k
Original Battery
Replaced both rear hub assemblies, rear rotors + front and rear pads.

 

You’re in a different club then:

200,000 Mile Club