2014 PiP ABS ((!)) and Trac/VSC orange lights on, no engine codes

Discussion in 'Gen 1 Prius Plug-in 2012-2015' started by Arkay, Jan 12, 2022.

  1. Arkay

    Arkay Junior Member

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    Lemme try again, sorry!
     

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  2. vvillovv

    vvillovv Senior Member

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    I did a little search for the part # and got a match at ebay for $26 shipped.
    search at google - 89543-47030
    or search on ebay - New ABS Speed Sensor Front Driver Left Side LH Hand for Toyota Prius 8954347030
     
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  3. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Ok, and those pics are of the connector that is part of the sensor's own wiring, has pin terminals in it, and the mating connector from the car in the wheel well has socket terminals and it's ok?

    If you wanted to repair the OEM sensor rather than going for an eBay item at a tenth the price, you probably could buy the repair terminals from Toyota and repair the connector, for about the same money as the eBay sensor.

    The tricky bit would be, the Toyota wiring diagram will only show the socket terminals used for the car-side connector. It will list a size in mm and a style, something like "1.0 II waterproof (female)". The challenging bit is you then browse through the wiring diagram looking at the various harness-to-harness connections looking for one that lists the same style terminal, only male, and if you find it you buy that part number.
     
  4. Arkay

    Arkay Junior Member

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    The part number helps a lot. Found a few.

    I am really thankful for all the help.
    @ChapmanF: The connector type is : Y48CX, CE2228M. Turns out that it may be similar in price to ordering a whole system ... But a WHOLE lot easier to just add the connector.

    The only issue I have now is: how can do a basic test of the existing sensor? Multimeter shows 0 connectivity between the two wires on the sensor side.

    I will not be working on it today so I have a week to think it over.
     
  5. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    I don't think those are Toyota numbers, but if you found a third-party source for matching connectors, other readers here might be interested in details of where and how you found them.
     
  6. vvillovv

    vvillovv Senior Member

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    Those nubs of wire left on the sensor side look to me like they would present more of an issue to try to splice back into the wire harness effectively.

    Since not getting resistance from thos nubs of wire in the sensor, makes me wonder if the sensor uses some kind of magnetic fluctuation from the hub spindle part it reads from.
     
  7. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    I don't think the pics are showing the sensor, just the electrical connector at the end of its (rather long) pigtail. So a repair would be to just remove those pins from the connector housing, nubs and all, replace them with the correct repair terminals (which come pre-crimped to short lengths of wire, at least the way Toyota sells them), and splice those to the pigtail.

    In Gen 3 and later, the sensors are built on Hall-effect ICs, so they produce a clean digital output, rather than a waveform that got fainter and fainter as the car slowed down, like the older ones. They were described recently in this post by mr_guy_mann.
     
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  8. vvillovv

    vvillovv Senior Member

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    Thanks, yeah I thought the connector was the sensor when looking at the pics since I haven't seen an assembly for the prius. It did look like a strange sensor though frrm what I've seen on other cars. :oops:

    The link to mr_guy_manns' post was good, now I beg the question just how a hall sensor detects AMPs' passing though it.
    And if the speed sensor changes the voltage it sends to the ECU as the car slows down - does that mean the sensor is powered though the harness somehow to produce the signal it sends?

    electronics ey ye
     
  9. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Here's a datasheet for a typical small Hall sensor IC.

    I don't guarantee that's the exact one used in the wheel sensor, but there may well be some of that exact chip in the car in one place or another. They're used all over.

    You just need two wires, you put a voltage across it, and it gets its power from that, and it will consume more current or less depending on whether a magnetic field is impinging on it. If you have a resistor in line with the voltage you are supplying it, you can detect the current changes as voltage changes.
     
  10. Arkay

    Arkay Junior Member

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    First, I would like to thank everyone for the help they have given me. It felt like I had found a few long-lost brothers!!! Second, I found that the rats had chewed through a whole lot of wires near the left headlight, apart from the brake speed sensor wiring. It doesn't stop there ... They chewed through the firewall, blower box, and a few other things along the way.

    Finally, I found out that my insurance would cover it. $8,859 less $250 (my deductible). With Apple Pay (2% back), I paid $72 total.

    More info ... The main expenses were around replacing the firewall ($3798) as they had to drop the transmission, followed by the blower box ($2671).

    I drove off the parking lot and realized that the AC wasn't working. Drove back, and they gave me a Toyota Tacoma rental for free. Which was a VERY good thing as I had wanted to donate a sofa and a few things to Goodwill ...

    I picked up my car the next day; apparently, they had not charged the AC. It works great now. They also did a realignment.

    Sooooo everything worked out. One can't complain. Juan @ Santa Cruz Toyota made it easy.

    Lesson: One really needs detailed diagrams and service manuals. And time.