2013 Scion FRS Wheels

So if the frs wheels come right off the frs and go on my prius will those tire pressure sensors work if I get them programmed?

 

They should, but you will need some spacers to clear the brake caliper holders.

SCH-I535

 

Ok, I'm aware of the 3mm spacer more interested in if the tire pressure sensors would work?

 

I have a set brand new tires and wheels... Hit me up if interested...

 

They will work...

 

terrible......

give to me^^kkkk

 

UPDATE: No Spacers.

I installed my FRS wheels and Michelin Primacy HP tires without the need for spacers.

>I sanded down the caliper carrier approximately 3-4 mm. This allows full lug nut thread engagement. In the photos you can see the silver paint covering the sanded area. It is the whole outside edge of the carrier. I did this with a 2" 50 grit sanding disc on a high speed.
I went for ~1-2 mm of clearance.

Note: This is not an approved mod. I may be called a goof for doing it this way. I removed less than 10% of the material thickness and I believe that bridge only ties the two ends together to avoid bending forces on the part that holds the pads.

>I used hub center adapters which center the wheels on the hub accurately before the lug nuts are torqued down. This is important and you don't get this with low-dollar spacers.
These are the hub adapters: 56.1-54.1mm > Hub Rings / Spigot rings 6,25 € only - HubCentric-Rings.com >>$34 shipped.

>I used these lug nuts as the stock ones will not work:
>> $33 shipped

>I skipped the TPMS sensors as these will be my fun summer time wheelset!!
I use a small circle of black electrical tape to cover the TPMS warning light. There is no beeping.
I elected to go cheap,, and old school ! No 'Nanny Warning System' telling me I am losing air in one of my tires. I'll just have to figure it out the old way....

> The CV joint axle stub pushes out the front wheel center cap. So I chucked the two front ones up in a lathe and took off the soft backing plastic and then a little more messing up the black paint. I left if for showing the circle required. I can paint them later.

> I also installed the TRD rear anti-sway bar. Real quick and easy !!

Now the car is,,, as the kids say,,,, OMG !!! These tires are sticky non-all season.
They don't squeal even close to the slide. And they are surprisingly quieter than the stock 15" set. And the ride is nicer even with running 51/49 psi !!
The tire/wheels, road force balancing and mounting, the spacers and the lugs cost a total of $850. And I couldn't be happier !!
I don't see a big mpg hit yet. Maybe the 2 mpg people have reported.

I have the TRD lowering springs but I like feeling out the car this way first. I think it may be the better for the real world. No tip toeing over bumps and driveways....

 

What else was needed to put these wheels on? Adapters? Spacers? What is difference is Gas mileage with these wheels? Thank u.

 

How about reading the thread?

Yes, hubcentric adapters and a thin spacer is required. Best would be to get a spacer made with the correct hub centric ring included, like the OP got.

SCH-I535

 

Hey guys,

I'm trying to decide between the Lexus CT200H original 17" or the FR-S rims. which one do you recommend me?

Do I need spacers with the CT200H Wheels?

Thanks!!

 

Spacers are not required for the Ct200h wheels. They are required for the FR-S wheels.

 

If you use spacers on the FR-S wheels you lose centering ring functionality.
You can buy centering ring adapters for those wheels and carefully blend off 3-4mm of steel from the edge of the caliper carriers.
This way you have centering rings and full lug nut thread engagement.

 

Just bought the new set of FRS wheels today

So inclusion, FRS wheels users will need:
1. (4) 3mm spacer. What bore for spacer 56.1mm or 54.1m. I cannot find the 3mm spacer with 54.1 bore, all they come with hub centric 56.1. If i buy them, do i need to buy the item in question number 2
2. hub center ring adapter step down from 56.1 mm -> 54.1 mm?
3. stock lug from FRS wheels ok?

Somebody please check it, am I correct?

Thanks

 

I wanted to share some specifics:

For about $10 shipped, you can get a set of 4 CR1053 (56.1mm to 54.1mm) Spigot Rings / Hub Centric Rings and not worry. Slide them onto the wheels before mounting. The 1mm thickness is too fragile if you put it on the cars hub first. eBay Spigot Rings Hub Centric Rings Full Set of 4 Four Size to Choose from 200 | eBay

3mm spacer ring with a 54.1 bore and 5x100 (about $48 for 4 on ebay or direct from titan wheel accessories). Note that with the spacers, the hub center contact (even with the spigot ring) is superficial and may not support self centering or lateral loads like pot holes. This may be support for grinding?!?

Others grind the brake bracket bridge to clear, but the center caps no longer fit without taking a hole saw and removing the inside 3mm of plastic and tape for the 2 front ones. If you go too deep, just use the center cap logos noted below to cover up the marks under the plastic.

Wheel lug nuts are standard 12 x 1.5 tapered acorn style. Do not use the Scion/Subaru nuts, for they are 12 x 1.25.

Toyota logo center cap covers for $11 a set will enhance the wheels further. 47mm is the best fit and just stick on the scion center caps. Black or carbon fiber for that extra .01 hp;-) Just use a suction cup to pop the cap off without having to remove the wheel. TOYOTA 3d car stickers for wheel center caps СARBON LOOK or black ― Online shop 3D wheel center cap (3dcarstickers dot com)

I suggest you fill tires to 40psi and reset tire pressure warning system, then reduce to desired pressure like 36/38 or ??? This way the warning light goes off at 30psi. Warning light is 25% loss of air when system is reset. Reset instructions are simply:
1. Engine off, adjust inflation.
2. Turn power switch to ON, then press and hold reset switch until warning light blinks 3 time slowly. Reset switch is under drivers side dash.
3. Done. Now turn the car off and reduce air pressure to what you want.
BTW, factory 17" wheels recommends 33 front / 32 back although most run more air for better mileage.

Also, the factory tire pressure sensors will fit the FRS wheels just fine.

Sorry, but for some reason my links got weird. Just search it if they don't work right.

 

PB.
Thanks for posting a very definitive process to get these wheel mounted and working properly!

I used:
> some silicone sealant to hold the hub centric rings in place. They could easily get knocked out of place while installing the wheels.
> used the method of grinding 3mm from the steel caliper carrier. This is less than 10% of the thickness of that area.
> used a drill press to mill out the center cap and went too far on the first one and marred the visible logo just a little bit.
> black chrome versions of the acorn lug nuts. Where they "large acorn"? Check into that.

Your method of using the TPMS to give you a warning at the PSI you want it to is an excellent idea !!

The tires/wheels I bought had Mich Primacy HP tires installed. These are not even All Season tires. They stuck to the road so well and quietly that it totally transformed my Prius! I also had a TRD rear anti-sway bar .

But, alas, EV driving is addictive. I moved on to a car with 150HP EV performance and way sportier handling than my modified Prius!!

 

Bill, thanks for update on how you got the FRS wheels to work on the Prius. I definitely see the advantages of no spacer is that the center hub makes proper contact with the wheel with the spigot ring so any lateral loads (like pot holes) do not subject themselves to the wheel studs.

I understand you no longer have the car, but I am interested on your perspective if this bridge grinding "should" be done.

Did you ever have any problems with the brakes afterwards?
Did the wheels ever flex and hit the brake bracket due to the tight clearance?
Would you still do it this way all over again or would you use 3mm spacers? Why?

Thanks again for all your help. These method makes sense to me, but you have first hand experience.

 

I agree, you get full engagement of the centering rings of the hub/wheel interface when you don't use spacers. Plus you get full designed thread engagement of the lug nuts.
The plastic adapter rings I bought had a counter sink on the ID so they needed full engagement to even have a decent contact area. I glued them in place so they don't get bumped out of place while fitting the wheel to the hub.

OK, as for grinding off 10% of the material on that steel bridge area, I know there will be red flags from some, but,,,,
(In aircraft, some tubing/structures can have 10% of a surface removed to deal with damage.)

>The caliper never deals with braking torque forces. They only pinch the brake pads to the disc, agreed?
>The brake pads have the braking forces and are trying to torque the pads only against the lower brake pad to carrier surface, agreed?
>The upper portion of that carrier is not loaded at all. It just keeps the pad in position, radially, and handles reverse braking forces.
>The only force that bridge deals with is the lower pad surface is trying to bend down from where the carrier is mounted to the steering knuckle assembly, agreed?
>The bridge is there to keep the two pad/carrier surfaces parallel. It's curved. It's steel. I believe it can be trimmed 10% without any problems. I did not say this. Do not quote me....
>The carrier will have higher loads with the sticky/wide tires at max braking forces, agreed?

I gave my wheels maybe 1-2mm clearance and never saw any flex resulting in wheel contact. And believe me, I flogged that car! Those wheels/Mich Primacy HP's and the sway bar really improved the Fun Factor of dull fuel efficient tipsy hybrid !!

And again PB, your idea on how to use the TPMS to get the warning light at the level YOU want is excellent !!
(My current ride displays PSI for each wheel. I see higher psi on the sunny side of the car after sitting at work all day.)

 

Thanks again for your help and explanations. I have come up with a similar understanding. Lets take it to the next step of why the bridge is there:
As the caliper squeezes the brake pads against the disc, the pads are indeed providing an additional downward force against the caliper bracket as the disc attempts to drag them down by the rotational force. Previous brake calipers did not have a bridge, they were simply mounted in the back with a caliper housing that included the retaining system for the brake pads. This was a very large cast steel component. I believe the 2 piece system, with the separation of the caliper and pad retainer, was created to cut weight (and costs). Therefore the purpose of the bridge is to reinforce the pad retainers in a box like cage to minimize the material used.
Early 2 pc systems without the bridge. Notice how thick the sides bosses are:

Now lets look at the current Prius system. Much smaller side boss and thin bridge:

Or perhaps the bridge is there only to maintain tolerance during the casting/machining processes and does not provide any significant structural function once mounted and operational. I'm not certain I buy this due to the difficulty in casting this bridge. So what is troubling then is the extreme arc of the bridge; it would seem that the bridge would just flatten out slightly under load and allow the side to still flex with the pad forces, making the bridge of little benefit. This makes me question why the engineers included the bridge at all, and thus safely can be ground minimally for wheel clearance.
Any engineers that have a better insight, please chime in.

 

I have the same setup as you. I have a Prius 2010 on a FRS wheels. Is 56.1-54.1mm the right size of the hub centric rings?

It will be nice if you can confirm it so I can order them right now.

Thank you very much.

Samuel

 

Samuel,

I can't tell you the exact ID/OD of the rings, but I can tell you I got them from this site:Shopping cart - HubCentric-Rings.com
You could go through this thread and try to find the answer again or measure your FRS wheels and the hub on you Prius.
Get a $10 digital caliper from Harbor Freight. It's a handy tool to have. Good Luck!