2013 dead battery

It appears the dealer did not actually do a draw test the first time and certainly did not read codes if Verizon was snooping on that port the whole time. That is why they did not charge you this time. I would find a new dealer next time.

 

Nope your not charging a dead battery your, Maintaining a charge on a known good battery, similar but different.

 

Uh oh, it sound's like the Dealer is trying to exercise "The Wesel Clause??"

A third party damaged the battery so, not our fault??

 

"...similar but different."

Point taken.

 

it may be that a battery drained by an obd device is not 'defective', and therefore, covered under warranty.
that they said they will replace it if it still drains, now the device is removed, is commendable on their part.

 

is that device connected to your daughters bluetooth issue?

 

Except they charged $100 the first time, said no draws existed and blew her off the next time she called. Not so commendable, charging dollars for unperformed work.

 

once an aftermarket device is connected to the car, all bets are off. you may even void the warranty

 

With a veangance: doubly so since March of 2020.

the CTEK 4.3 I use claims to be cable of both maintaining a healthy battery and reviving a depleted but still viable one. Completely dead, I think it won’t start a charging session. The latter hasn’t happened yet in my experience, and I have had some recovery sessions.

 

And you would be wrong.......in some cases.

When CCA is tested, they usually just do it for a few seconds, which is not good enough.

A battery can have a fault where it has lost 20% of it's original voltage and 20% of it's original CCA ability.
The lower CCA number might not look too remarkable but a voltage of 10.0 certainly should get your attention.

 

Most any battery tender type charger is just fine for an AGM battery. It might bring it up to only 95 % instead of 100 which is insignificant in an automotive application.

And a really LOT of people will try to use a battery tender to charge a weak battery.......IF that is the only charger that they have.
In many cases, it works fine if left attached long enough.

 

Exactly what reading on a DVOM do you think indicates that a battery is "good" ??

 

With our Prius and a 12 volt battery that has not been discharged flat 12.24 seem's to be more than sufficient. IT's a two year old Bosch replacement for the OEM 12 volt. And no issues thus far.

But what I "thought," was that if a 12 volt showed at least 12 volt's resting it was more than good enough, but in the Prius, apparently not?? The battery in my 89 944 Turbo S (sigh) is on a battery maintainer It's been set up that way for years and it shows 13 volts. And the 89 and 85.5 will kill a battery in two weeks if the cars were not started?? My 87 Toyota Mini Truck with the modded 22r could sit for a month and still start with out issues. I don't what the SOC of the 12 volt was because it didn't matter.

The 12 volt (original battery) well the second one (I have all the history on 2005 so this is it's third 12 volt battery for it. Started giving us grief when it showed by DVOM 12 volt's solid. I could have done a load test on it, but I felt I should not have to because the DVOM said 12 volt's?? { still think that dead by "Prius," standards would have started either of my other car's but I never got a chance to to "proof" ,that concept.)

 

I agree that a battery with 12.0v on it will Ready a Prius as long as it does not drop to less than perhaps 10.5v under initialization loading.

A decent meter puts no load on the circuit or battery being tested. So the real battery test is under load.

Think about a brand new A23 12v battery which is about the size of AAA. It will measure fine by itself and might even holdup to the 20ma of parasitic current for awhile. But it will drop quick when you try to go Ready.

However I have used a 5 amp hour alarm battery to Ready a Prius which would have no chance to turn over a Civic.

 

Wait what?? A23 12v battery which is about the size of AAA??? WTH???

But yeah "apparently," for a Prius anyway a DVOM with a 12 volt of unknown history is not "Good Enough," for testing?? It might start the car for awhile but if the 12 volt is low?? It will start to tick off the Key Fob?? And lead one down yet another rat-hole of seemingly, unrelated issues. Been there done that ...

 

A reading of 12.0 indicates that it is roughly half discharged and the reason for that needs to be determined.

A reading of 12.0 with no load likely will go down a LOT when a load is applied.......and be below the reliable threshold for most any modern vehicle with electronic engine controls.

No single reading with a voltmeter can tell you that a battery is "good".
It can tell you that it is BAD though.

 

For reference:


From here:

The 12volt Side of Life (Part 1)

 

LOL , well I can "apparently" be very pigged and anal about what I believe to be true?? But our "Prius,proved that you are correct! "

But I have more "project car's," on hand for more "anal," 12 volt by DVOM project's! But not the "Prius!"

































































































prius," live and learn.

 

Well going by that chart?? Our two year old I think Bosch 12 volt is at 60% ?? Well that suck's! It does get a 40 mile or so round trip once a week. And short trips weekly less than 24 miles a week?? But I'll keep a closer eye on it. It might be "Battery Tender time for it during the winter month's??

 

We drive maybe a couple of times a week, sometimes less. I put it on a charger any day it’s not being used, and just leave it on till next use. Helps having a lot having a garage with power; appreciate this doesn’t work for everyone. A quick connect (came with the charger) helps too.