2012 bought with 157k miles

What does that refer to?

 

The threads on your drain plug are damaged by someone overtightening it in the past (+1 to using a torque wrench!).
Just get a new drain plug with washer and swap it out the next time you change the oil. Usually the threads in the oil pan fair better than the drain plug.

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Been trying to honored by him for years now.....

Great job with the preventative maintenance!
Are you going to keep changing the oil at 10K or club down to 5?
(FWIW, I wouldn't start using high mileage blend until your burn rate warrants it.)

I don't recall reading what your transaxle fluid change plans are.....(were.)
Thoughts?

Good Luck with the car!

 

Second this. It swells seals, a last-ditch tactic with a terminal oil-burner.

 

Personally I think you can do the transaxle yourself.
It's pretty easy.....
Our own @NutzAboutBolts has authoritative vids.
"like" and subscribe if they help!

Notes on changing the engine coolant on a gen 3 | PriusChat

 

Thats' great mileage for an old girl! My new Prius computer said I got 61 mpg but I checked the actual mileage with the amount of gas I put in I got 65 mpg so check it both ways.

 

my guess is it doesn't have rotational data until the car is moving, so it can't assign a "efficient x percent" until moving.

then once you're moving, it can react on the dash

 

The hardest part is getting the car in the air, and level, with jacks and jack stands.
And remove the FILLER plug FIRST! Then the drain, remove the last few threads slowly,
and hold the pan close and you shouldn't spill but a few drops.
Fill it from the top with a hose from the top of the engine compartment into the filler hole.
Then a funnel at the top and pour SLOWLY! It will fill slowly, and take 3.5 - 4 quarts.
Throw a towell down or piece of plywood...

 

Both transaxle fill and drain bolts are socket head cap screw style, take a male 10 mm hex driver (Allen-key style). You can get ratchet wrench sockets in that style; Stanley for one makes them. A long handled wrench or breaker bar makes it easy to break them loose. Torque is only 29 foot pounds, but they get kind of stuck on.

attachment is from Repair Manual, pretty basic info.

also, Toyota cautions to only use Toyota ATF WS, from freshly opened bottles.

for jack stand locations, and jacking points, see the oil change link in my signature*. I use alternate jack stand support points, not the points proscribed for the scissor jack.

* If on a phone, turn it to landscape orientation and sigs should show.

 

The tranmission needs to be level to fully empty and fill, correctly.

 

Sounds like your drain bolt or the oil pan has been partially stripped.

The drain pan on my BMW stripped and I had to cut new threads, but it worked out ok. To avoid, one solution is to purchase a Fumoto valve. You screw it in once and then just open a valve to change your oil. I fit a 6” tube over the valve and drain directly into a milk jug, so it’s directly ready for oil recycling.