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2012 bought with 157k miles

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by AW82, Mar 25, 2021.

  1. AW82

    AW82 Member

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    I'll try to take a look. Brake cleaned and bottle brushed the manifold and now letting it soak for a few hours in a water/degreaser solution.
     
  2. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    Have you got the cowl and wipers off? That out of the way the Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve and cooler are must/does. If you drain two quarts engine coolant (from rad drain spigot), it’ll drop coolant level enough that the Exhaust Gas Recirculation system is dry, no spillage when you pull off it’s hoses.

    when reassembled pour the coolant into reservoir. It’ll maybe end up a little high, but should settle down with a few drives.

    having a 2012 I think you DON’T have coolant bleed bolt, but leaving the topmost hose off while pouring the coolant back in will achieve same function, allowing air to escape.
     
  3. AW82

    AW82 Member

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    No, I didn't remove the cowl or wipers since I wasn't planning to remove the EGR cooler this time.

    A few more photos showing the state of affairs (and what salt does in Wisconsin)
     

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  4. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    That's more or less how my intake ports looked. Bit of carbon from the manifold up to about where the injectors poke through, then pretty clean from there on down, where they bathe in the yummy detergents from the top-tier fuel. Valve stems look downright shiny.
     
  5. AW82

    AW82 Member

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    The contrast is killing me! Any tips on cleaning other than careful dry brushing?
     
  6. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    I hate salt...
     
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  7. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Yes. Don't obsess over it! If the valves looked like this, you'd want to clean them for sure.

    ivd.png

    If everything downstream of where the fuel injects in is clean as a whistle, it won't be sponging up fuel like that, and you've got a little bit of carbon upstream that you don't like to look at but isn't significantly restricting airflow, with the manifold back on you don't have to look at it. ;)

    I kind of wiped mine perfunctorily with a shop towel and called it a day.
     
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  8. AW82

    AW82 Member

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    Got it. There's also some stubborn plaque in the intake manifold that I'm giving up on. It's probably less than a half mm thick on the walls of the big ports.
     
  9. AW82

    AW82 Member

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    So I looked at the the pcv inlet on the manifold after soaking in a solution of Greased Lightning degreaser and water. It looks like it has rusty crud in it. I'm not sure what color the crud was before the soak, but I did look in it while using brake cleaner and bottle brush I don't remember it being rust colored. Does this sound familiar to anyone?
     
    #49 AW82, Mar 28, 2021
    Last edited: Mar 28, 2021
  10. Rocky Mountain Priusman

    Rocky Mountain Priusman Active Member

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    Just looking at your pics your intake ports are considerably more gunked up than mine were at 100K, but I suspect the intake manifold on my car has been replaced and perhaps the intake ports were already cleaned.

    Same goes for your EGR pipe pics - looks about 50% more clogged than mine, but that also makes sense as your car has 50% more mileage.

    And that pic on the salt on the air intake is crazy. I didnt even look at mine to see! They do use salt here, though I dont think quite as much as in the midwest.
     
  11. AW82

    AW82 Member

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    That's what gives us more flavor!

    Are you in Alberta or BC?
     
  12. Rocky Mountain Priusman

    Rocky Mountain Priusman Active Member

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    I am in Alberta but very close to the BC border.

    I'll take a picture for you of the PCV valve that I just took off my car and post today. To be honest I didn't really closely look at it. Just swapped it out as a preventative maint item since it was cheap and I had everything apart.
     
  13. AW82

    AW82 Member

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    Nice. I've always wanted to visit that area. It's just so far!

    Well, I got everything put back together. PCV valve that came out was stubborn. It was oily but still rattly just like the new one I bought. I went ahead and put in the new one. It was stubborn going in and probably took about 20 foot pounds of torque just to thread it in. I attribute that to corrosion on the aluminum parts. It went in though and seated fully. With the thread lock that it has on it, I'm not too concerned about it leaking.

    I also got the intake ports cleaned out. A little throttle body cleaner sprayed onto a rag worked decently. Cylinder four was actually the most carbonized. I had a little bent piece of metal from an IKEA piece of furniture that didn't have any sharp edges and I used it to help scrape gently and loosen flakes of carbon. As well as fish out little bugs that fell in while the manifold was off. Hopefully anything that I didn't get out will burn off pretty quickly.

    I did not get the OCC installed but I did run the lines for it. Actually, I installed a continuous 6 foot piece of 3/8 hose. Once I get time and figure out a bracket solution, I'll cut the hose and install it. I figure this also will rule out the actual OCC if I have a vacuum leak.

    I did not do EGR valve or cooler this time. My back and my spouse both told me it was time to stop for the weekend. Maybe next weekend or the following.

    I haven't fired it up yet because it's blocked in the driveway and as a rule I avoid starting a car unless I can drive it 10+ minutes. Fingers crossed I hooked everything back up and dont get any OBD codes!
     

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  14. Rocky Mountain Priusman

    Rocky Mountain Priusman Active Member

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    @AW82 - I re-read your post about crud on the PCV inlet on the manifold. Mine certainly had crud in it but I didn't really inspect the colour (hard to see against black background) Almost looked like oil sludge but I cant be sure. It also doesn't help that I am colour blind either!
     
  15. AW82

    AW82 Member

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    Yeah I'm not going to worry too much about it unless someone sees that as a red flag. I mentioned the degreaser because I'm wondering if that transformed some iron particles from the PCV effluent into rust.
     
  16. Rocky Mountain Priusman

    Rocky Mountain Priusman Active Member

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    You should visit when the borders open again! Yes, a very far drive from you, but you can always fly to Calgary or Vancouver and rent a car.

    I installed my OCC but I didn't install a bracket. Right now its just sitting in the little pocket at the front drivers side - the 1/2 inch fuel line hoses I used are pretty stiff so its not really going to move around much. Dont even know if it needs a bracket, but I will probably zip tie it at some point. It isn't sitting perfectly flat (its on a slight angle) but that doesn't bother me much. I opted not to mount it under the car because I want to make sure I can empty it with a quick pop of the hood. I know that makes it higher than the PCV valve but hopefully I still get pretty good effectiveness out of it. Just setting it in that pocket down there is 2-3 inches lower than mounting it with the 3D printed bracket I see some people using.
     
  17. AW82

    AW82 Member

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    My company has an office in Edmonton. Maybe I'll find an excuse to visit them sometime.

    Why'd you go with 12.7mm (;)) hose? I did 3/8" so I wouldn't have to deal with reducers, etc. Yes, the hose is smaller diameter but there's only one fitting for things to follow though. Just one 3/8-3/8 PEX coupler.

    I'm with you on easier access. Mendel's rationale for lower mounting makes sense but I'm going to start behind the drivers headlight. Something I'm wondering is how much the height of the can matters relative to the highest part of the hose. Like, does mounting the can lower behind the headlight matter if the hose is still running over the inverter?
     
  18. Rocky Mountain Priusman

    Rocky Mountain Priusman Active Member

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    I couldnt find 3/8" hose meder at any of the local hardware stores. I was eager to get on with the project and I found 1/2" PEX hose joiners at the local hardware store and bought them just to try out. I was suprised when I cut the PVC to intake tube in half with a bit of a struggle I could get the 1/2" joiners inserted into the hose (its quite a tight fit, hopefully it doesnt crack/burst in cold weather, but on the other hand it is so tight I didn't even need clamps).

    Then the oil catch can from amazon also has 1/2 inch fittings as an option, and my local car parts store had 1/2 inch ID fuel line. It all fit together quite nicely and made for an easy install. The 1/2 inch hose to half inch fittings on the oil catch can were also tight fits, requiring no clamps.

    I actually planned the entire thing out based on 3/8th inch, but then shipping of a 3/8 hose mender was taking forever on amazon. Also I read that the PCV hose when cut in half is just a bit big for the 3/8 hose and you need to make sure its clamped well. So I am guessing that the actual ID of that hose is somewhere inbetween 3/8 and 1/2 (maybe 10mm?).

    Anyways I htink you can do it a number of ways, probably just based on what fittings and hoses are easiest to find for you.
     
  19. AW82

    AW82 Member

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    Yeah, that makes sense. The original pcv hose is certainly loose-ish on a 3/8" PEX fitting. I think it might fit better and certainly be more confident with a barb fitting. But I just pushed forward with a hose clamp and fingers crossed. It's at least accessable enough that I could fiddle with it only by removing the intake.

    Did you get the $25 Amazon catch can? I'm debating about sticking the steel scrubber in there.
     
  20. Rocky Mountain Priusman

    Rocky Mountain Priusman Active Member

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    I feel like 3/8 plus a clamp or 1/2 with or without a clamp will work fine.

    I did and I did put the steel scrubber in but didnt think much about it. Was the hesitation that metal pieces might come off it and get sucked into your engine?