2011 Prius Head Gasket Failure

I'd advocate the engine coolant mileage interval: 100K miles the first time, and 50K at least for the next time, and set future interval based on what the the second cleaning revealed.

My first cleaning was around 71K kms, works out around 45K miles. Will be doing a second at the spark plug change interval, since the cowl's off, which will be at the 12 year mark, very likely still under 100K kms.

 

I only have 256,000 miles on mine. Engine coolant is at the same spot as it was
when I changed it at 200,000 miles. MAYBE slightly lower, due to evaporation since it's not a
completely sealed system.
Still on the original head gasket, water pump, inverter pump....
Though I have bought an inverter pump, water pump is next.
I'll probably change the EGR Cooler and clean the intake all all related items at 260,000 miles.
And change both coolant pumps while I'm at it.

I believe it also depends on HOW your drive. The previous owner and myself drove about the same.
About 85% highway miles. 65mph most of the time. So it keeps a more constant heat level.

I really need front struts, but, I think the water pump is a little more important at this time.

 

Good summer project indeed Anyway, just had the job done and there surely had been gunk. However, mechanic said the IM had been surprisingly clean. Those tiny holes definately not clogged. Car has 212kkm on the clock. In any case the mechanic -whom i know well and who was skeptic about the whole cleaning- said that ”it was about time”.




Pcv valve was replaced as preventive maintenance and i was told the old one was shot. But explanation made me wonder. He said ”its one way valve but airflow could be applied both directions”. But isn’t pcv valve designed that way? Normally open.

 

Why would anyone feed exhaust gas into intake when maxing out? Even in Prius or other eco-optimised combustion engine. I think there is some big time misunderstanding going on

 

no kidding it’s about time, completely clogged!

 

Yeah, well - car was running just fine. Perhaps it’ll now run even better Like fly or something

 

PCV valves have several tricks up their sleeves. Closing in the backwards direction is one of them.

 

Yes. I am hoping oil consumption go down

 

Isn't it unusual for the factory service schedule to totally ignore this common condition?

Especially if it is somehow linked to head gasket failures....

Is it company policy to not bother with preventive maintenance recommendations after 100k mi/km?

 

I've observed the action of the EGR in Techstream while operating the car normally. The EGR has always been closed at full throttle and at idle. It's generally open to some degree in the midrange.

 

That would agree with what I was reading in the technical training materials on TIS.

 

I’d say it’s very common accross all brands. It’s not economically ”viable” to have maintenance schedule that covers old and completely worn out vehicles. How could they set the standards? Where would it end? Around here a guy took his high mileage mercedes to dealership and ordered maintenance with a sidenote ”replace all wearing parts whereas necessary”. He got a hefty bill since even some door hinges had been replaced

I am not aware of any car that has egr system cleaning in the maintenance schedule. It’s usually like tailpipe; if it breaks then it’s replaced. I had my system cleaned and there was lot of gunk (of course) but egr passages in IM not clogged at all. Cooler was so clogged that probably the famous red light was just around the corner. Had it happened dealership would have changed cooler, maybe even the valve and charged lots of €€€. But probably no other drama.

 

In the repair manual, it looks like there is a requirement that after the gasket maker material is applied to the timing chain cover, that the cover, oil filter cover, and engine mounts reinstalled all be completed within about a small window. I don't see evidence of that happening in any of the videos and haven't seen that part discussed.

How important is having the left side engine mount reconnected within that timing window?

The specific language is:

EDIT:
After reading that again, I'm realizing that is not likely referring to getting the mount fully connected on both parts, but the mount reconnected to the timing chain cover side.

 

Gasket Masters are using an alternate form-in-place gasket product, with a more leisurely cure time. Not a bad idea. I think their dab-n-spread technique is good too. Repair Manual has a hopelessly complex drafting exercise, showing various diameters of FIP gasket, which you need to take with a grain of salt. Best approach I think is to use a compatible but slower curing product, and get a good understanding of where-and-why the product needs to be.

obviously you want a continuous barrier, anywhere oil could leak. You also want a slightly thicker application at any engine split lines, and run a bead on those split lines too.

 

If you use the Toyota sealer, it will start curing fairly quickly. So getting the cover attached
is important. You certainly don't need to panic over though. If you move quickly, you'll be fine.
It's important to do it evenly, which I believe is the point, so that the mating services are even so the
sealer will be even and there will be no leaks.

There are video's of people doing it that probably don't think it's important or just don't care.
It's not their vehicle.

 

The time limit timing chain install spec'd in the Repair Manual (using the Toyota FIP gasket product) is almost humanly impossible to achieve. I've seen video: at the factory a robot runs round a course applying the goop in a matter of seconds. On the machined face of the engine if I'm not mistaken, which truly is impossible with the engine in place. There's two time limits: one for applying the gasket goop, and then the cover is supposed to be fully installed, and all bolts installed and torqued (with varying torque specs), in a second, very short time limit.

I would opt for aftermarket goop, there's online discussion as to which is best. Gasket Master's pick is probably fine.

 

The Facebook Prius groups that I am a member of call me crazy when I recommend an “engine out” approach to resealing or reinstalling the timing cover. However, I seriously doubt that many of those naysayers have had an engine out of a Prius and had to deal with resealing or installing the timing cover. Should I ever need to do another one, I will absolutely pull the engine to do anything involving resealing the timing cover.

 

Certainly with the engine out it would be extrememly easy to install the timing cover.
With the engine out, replacing the head gasket is easy(er).
Having a lift, in a shop out of the sun and heat and wind would be great!!!!

But not everyone has those conditions. It was tricky to install the timing cover, but not crazy.
I've got over 6000 miles since I replace the head gasket, no leaks.

If I had the money to buy the list and the engine hoist and stand, I would have pulled the engine.
Probably would have replaced the pistons and rings. Or just buy a short block....

 

This is great information on head gasket replacement.

 

Is it true a new member needs 5 consecutive posts prior to the community having vision?