2010 Prius - When Should I have EGR Cleaned?

If you've got it apart that far, you might as well get it off & get it cleaned. You've done 90% of the work to get it apart at this point.

I found, from my recent foray into cleaning one...that the soak & resoak & finding various solvents route didn't provide nearly the benefits that using a roll of quarters at the local carwash to blast it with high-pressure water.

Took me a half-hour & left me lookin like I was covered head-to-toe in "black face", but got the job done. Just be patient & understand that it'll take a little while for the high-pressure water to do its magic.

Be sure to blast everything else clean at the same time (all the pipes, the EGR Valve itself, and the Intake Manifold. Pay special attention on the Intake to the small inlet on the end where teh EGR circuit plugs into the intake.

 

Thats my plan - a late night trip to the car wash to use the soapy pressure washer. I plan on removing the EGR valve and brushing it clean. Worried that lots of water would ruin its electronics.

 

The pipe itself won't get clogged as the EGR cooler builds carbon build-up much faster. Though the amount of carbon build-up in the pipe is indicative of how clogged the cooler is and I think your cooler is at the point where it might be pretty carboned up.

What's next is up to you, though swapping in a 2015 engine might also have a limited lifespan and I'm not sure how much it would cost to pay a shop swap in a 4th gen engine. I'm thinking the money is probably better spent on a down payment on a 4th gen rather than paying to swap in its engine. Alternatively, a much more cost effective measure might be to buy a used EGR cooler and clean that to be swapped in by a shop. You can easily remove and clean the intake manifold and EGR pipe on your own.

 

Is it a waste of my time to clean the pipe and intake manifold and then wait a few weeks or months to do the EGR cooler? If one were to split up EGR cooler and intake manifold (e.g., having a shop do EGR and DIYing the manifold) which should come first?

 

Nothing’s a waste of time. If it helps to split it up by all means. I’d start with intake and the Exhaust Gas Recirculation pipe, if only cus it’s easier.

A prep step you can do for dealing with EGR proper: remove the nut on the stud at the lower bracket of the EGR cooler. If you’re really ambitious back out that stud too. The latter will take an E8 socket, and some patience/finess. The subsequent EGR valve/cooler removal will go a lot easier with the aforementioned nut/stud gone, and the removal does not compromise the systems solidity imho.

Too, handing the EGR removal/cleaning over to pros may be a frustrating/expensive can-o-worms, depending on the pro.


Do keep in mind the Exhaust Gas Recirculation gasses will not flow freely though, till ALL the “log jams” are dealt with.

more info:

Bad Flywheel | PriusChat

 

Thanks for the guidance. I'm thinking of having a local hybrid specialist (who posts here sometimes) swap the EGR cooler for a cleaned used one while also doing transmission fluid, both coolants, spark plugs, maybe a piston soak, and motor flush. I haven't gotten a price quote yet for all that, and those are all things I know I'm capable of doing myself, but I think having a pro do it will help my blood pressure.

 

Until you get the bill lol?

 

Well, that's where the quote comes in!

 

I wouldn't pay them to do a piston soak and motor flush. Rather, next time you're due for an oil change flush the engine with BG EPR. You pour it in into the crankcase, put the car in maintenance mode, and let the engine run idle for 20mins before turning it off. Then change the oil and all the gunk that was in the engine and coating the rings will come out with it. You can do this in the mechanic's parking lot and have them change the oil first thing. Just remember to turn the maintenance mode off and then turn the car back on to drive it where it needs to be.

 

That would only clean the bottom half/crankcase, though. Possibly somewhat tophalf through PCV. So you're saying a piston soak or any other above-the-rings cleaning isn't worthwhile? I'm considering trying a few bottles of techron first.

I mean, we've gotten 49-50mpg in the ~300 miles we've had the car. The other day I drove 7.3 miles and got 81.1 mpg per the "goodbye" trip computer when I turned the power off. Maybe that doesn't mean much in terms of engine health, though?

 

I think BG 44K fuel additive is more effective than Techron and will clean your piston heads and combustion chambers some, as well as your fuel injectors and valves. I like to run a can through a tank and a half before an oil change once a year. Anything above that, I'm not sure how worthwhile it is or not. But I think that generally a cleaner engine is a happier one, so if your mechanic has a service to flush the top part as well then go for it.

I noticed that you're at 157k miles. If the previous owner was good about the Toyota maintenance schedule and oil changes I think your engine should be in good shape, but cleaning everything is a very good idea. I bought my 2010 at 145k miles and it ran much smoother after cleaning the EGR and doing a slew of other maintenance. Though the previous owner didn't care for it as well so it does burn a bit of oil now.

 

Which I'm told is un-stoppable once it's started. All you can do is mitigate or slow it.

 

Yeah, I do my best. It's not an issue with regular city driving but when I'm up and down a lot of hills or driving north into canyon country on the freeway, it burns like crazy. I'd love to install an OCC but in California they're not allowed and I don't want to fail emissions tests. I'm hoping mine last until 200k miles and I can trade up for a prime or something all electric.

 

Yep, 157k. It honestly drives like a new car to me. The only two things so far that say otherwise are the odometer and more soot in the tailpipe than my 2009 CRV. They didn't do all service at a Toyota dealership, but appeared to change oil at a dealership every 5k miles after 100k. Maybe it burns like crazy...I don't know yet. As long as it doesn't burn more than a quart every 5k, it won't matter. With the miles I drive and the climate I'm in I'll be changing every 5,000 anyway.

My intent was to buy a $5k second gen for around town with $3k in the bank for repairs to last five years or so. Then I found this one that seems in such good condition (and drives SO much nicer than the 5 second gens I test drove) for $7200 and went for it. It seemed like it has another ten years in it (or did until I joined PC...). My family-of-four stimulus check paid most of that. I've still got plenty in the bank worse case scenario, but I just don't want to end up having made a stupid decision with this car.

I've read a lot of positive things about BG products. What's the preferred source for buying? How exactly do you run 1 can thru 1.5 tanks of gas? 2/3 can in a full tank, then remaining third and only fill up halfway?

 

Forums like this can exaggerate problems because, other than some enthusiasts, people who are having problems come here while people who aren't having problems don't.

So, do sensible preventive maintenance and enjoy your Prius.

 

I buy them on Amazon from third party sellers and wait until the prices are around $25 or less for each can. I pour a full can in the gas tank when it's low and then fill up, and then refill again when it hits half tank. From what I've read it's more effective the longer it's in the tank and dilution isn't really an issue. It smells really strong so I think it's very potent.

 

Thanks! I'm assuming people just buy the readily available standard formulas, not hybrid versions, which don't appear available on Amazon.

 

ASSume??? OH NO!!!!
I used the BG EPR in mine at 225,000. After only 5000 miles on the oil, it was black when I drained it.
A lot more so than when I drain it at 10,000. I have around 3200 miles since then, I've put a half quart in.
I had been using 1-1.5 quarts on 10,000 miles changes.
Though I have driven 70mph a few times for a few hours, I usually stay at 65. So it's hard to tell if it worked or not.
I'll change the oil and us the epr again when I get to 5000 miles, then back to the 10,000 mile changes since I still
have some left. I'm also going to try it in my van with 375,000 miles on it.
I figured it was worth a try, and that it really couldn't hurt.

OH, and I did get mine from amazon, it was more expensive on ebay.
BG says they don't sell it to "consumers", it's only for businesses. They say they are
"trained" to use it. What kind of training does it take to measure the correct amount,
pour it in the oil filler hole run the engine for a while, turn it off and drain and refill the engine????

 

Hmm, sounds like maybe it could hurt... (Edit: I realize when you said "have" you meant "half"...I thought you were saying 1 qt in 3200 miles)

You drained the epr after 20 minutes of idle, right? And did you use MOA too?

 

tell that to the posters here whom reversed the 12v battery polarity hook up during jumps.