2009 Prius - Warnings and will not engage.

You shop, primarily online Toyota dealers, many of which can be local to save shipping. I have bought online from four local dealers and several others where shipping was not a deal breaker.

Hundreds of Toyota dealers sell parts online. In the last few years I have seen dealer hv battery prices as low as $1600 which tells you the wholesale price ceiling.

Going straight to the dealer will sometimes work or may quickly get you msrp unless they believe you are a shop. Local shops get discounts you can get through their online channel. Occasionally they have sales; some have a Memorial Day going now.

Examples
https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com

Genuine Toyota Online Parts| Toyota Parts| Toyota Parts Store | McGeorge Toyota Parts| Ourisman Toyota Parts

Genuine Toyota Parts and Accessories: Official Online Store Hoover Toyota

Some independents sell oem. You can and should call them. The one I used was Hometown Hybrids. Installed was $2250.

From what I read above, you still have not proven exactly where the hv isolation fault is. I would do that first if possible rather than firing the parts cannon, in this case the Patriot Missile version.

 

As per the diagram posted in post #4, it could also be in the transaxle, inverter, or air conditioning compressor.

But as you posted your codes in post #5, you have sub-codes 526 and 612 that point to the battery.

 

I estimate that you would be able to replace these cells and use the car successfully for "a while" because I've read of many other owners doing exactly that. I'd say your odds are great.

You have to decide for yourself if "a while" is worth this trouble vs. buying a replacement pack and going a lot longer before getting back into this.

Yes, Toyota has nice new-build replacements available. Dealers set their own prices, so it is worth calling a few. They won't ship the item, between bulk and hazmat restrictions it's not happening. So you'll be picking it up at the physical dealership that sells it to you, and you'll return your battery there- generally with a significant deposit charged until yours comes back. Good to note for financial planning purposes.

rjparker is right on the money when he says the battery will add considerable value to the car- so even if you only drive it another two years, save that receipt from the Toyota parts department because it'll add a lot to what you can set as a selling price.

 

I'm sure it's the battery, but to make sure you can unscrew all the 8mm bolts on the side where the leak is visible and put a piece of thin plastic under the block 8 and 9 to isolate the short to ground.
As others have already said, you have 2 options: install a reсonditioned battery, not from a Prius 20 but a newer one, or a brand new from Toyota. I wouldn't waste my time with this battery.
This morning my friend’s wife called me and said that in the morning the charge on the MFD had dropped to 1 bar. 2 leaking modules have already been replaced within ~3 years on that battery and it looks like a third one is on the way. I told them a year ago that they needed a new battery. Now is the time to do this for sure.
I have several batteries: 2012, 2016 (Toyota replacement made by Primearth) and a couple more are still in the cars, I need to take them out and look. If you install a used one, then you will need to restore the capacity in it after 3 years in order to prevent it from reaching the point of no return.

 

Looks to me like you just solved for x.

I don't track hybrid pack prices consistently, but $1,950 sounds great to me. I'd do that deal.

 

You will get a set of modules clamped together.

Similar to this but new


You will start with your old one


Take it apart


Remove the old battery modules and reinstall the new

So there are many parts in the overall assembly you reuse.

 

Not exactly. There will be a cover on it and the frame for the electronics with some components in it. The components that are not in it you move over from the old battery.

No, it is better to return it after you've finished your install.

Exactly.

 

As long as there is no corrosion at the orange connector of your battery ecu, you should have no problems. Take before and after pics for reference. Use a torque wrench for all HV connections - 48 INCH-pounds. Get some help fitting the battery back in place.

Toyota sells you a new sheetmetal housing with the modules already mounted inside. All the HV cables are present but need to be installed. You transfer the case section that has the ecu and contactors.

It's always a good idea to remove and clean the battery fan, and check the white harness connector near the fan. If the body sealer cracks around the tailgate, then water will seep in and cause corrosion at the connector.

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

Note that the inch pound beam type torque wrenches tend to bend the beam after a few uses. At least the cheap ones from the auto supply houses do. They have different names stamped on them but they look like they all come from the same manufacturer:

https://www.autozone.com/wrenches-pliers-and-cutters/torque-wrench/p/performance-tool-1-4in-drive-0-80-in-lbs-torque-wrench/752621_0_0?searchText=torque+wrench

 

That is a ½" FOOT-lbs torque wrench. You want a (usually) ¼" INCH-lbs torque wrench.

You will not be able to set 4 ft-lbs (48 In-lbs) on that ½" torque wrench as its lower limit is 10 ft-lbs. FWIW, using it at the lower limit will not likely give reliable results anyway.

 

Yikes yeah return that big thing. It'll twist the posts right out of the plastic modules.