2008 Prius with new 12 V battery won't shift; lots of warning lights

Haha does it say my location?? I'm using the mobile app and it doesn't show locations. A great device to get your daughter would be an Automatic. They track mileage, score your driving by efficiency, call emergency if you're in an accident (should could set it to call you too) and can also read engine codes. I drive 4,000ish miles a month in mine and it's a cool tool to have. Especially for taxes (I use my car for work).

A thought I had was that your ABS light is on because not only are your two electric motors integrated in the transmission but our generation of Priuses cuts a lot of power when it detects wheel spin. A faulty transmission can hinder the ABS causing that light to trip.




iPhone ?

 

Automatic: Connect Your Car to Your Digital Life

 

Not sure havmt read what everyo ne said but unplug ur small battery ti reset ur codes even if ur big battery is dead ur car will now start

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That doesn't sound bad. 130 I think it was for 5 years. Now will it work with other apps. Especially to shut off or change features.

Google hear I come.


Susy definitely get a 2nd opinion sometimes multiple. The dealership dropped my tire pressure down to 30 and either over filled my oil or didn't use my oil and I lost over 8mpg I believe it was. Not even sure if they changed my transaxle fluid like I paid.

Plus now my drivers side front bumper keeps unsnapping. So constantly pushing it back in.

I'm done with dealers except maybe to buy. Not all are that bad.

If I recall at 100k all fluid should be changed. Which my 2013 prius v will hit in a week. Had the car almost a year and over 25k put on it. I Plan on changing all fluids.

Love the $22 a week vs $45 every 3 days. Car pays for itself including gas.

 

I'm guessing the individual who sold this car knew the issue. It will only last 2 months and the issue will occur again. My question is how did the dealer fix it initially without detecting the said cause.

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Yep. I had a Camry HV in the shop a couple of months ago that Downtown LA Toyota diagnosed with a bad Transaxle. They only wanted $7K for a new one. When the owner showed up to pick it up to bring to me for a second opinion, they only charged them $700 of the $1400 they agreed to for the diagnosis. It turns out the Trans was fine. The problem was coolant in the A/C compressor connector. Probably got in there when Toyota of Hollywood worked on the engine the week before.

When the owner and I went back to Downtown LA Toyota and asked if the (shitty) mechanic could show us how he got the (fake) readings that were on the invoice their answer was "he's on vacation. Mam, do you have your card with you?"

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That code is usually either the Transmission or the battery. If someone who didn't know what they were doing already changed the battery, I would say the chances it's the transmission are pretty good. The transmission could be tested but good luck finding a mechanic that understands how to use a Megaohm meter, especially at a Toyota dealership. Max Finch has some good advice. A second hand transaxle installed by a qualified independent repair shop is probably the best way to go.

I'd go back to the dealership, unplug the 12V battery while I demand my money back for the pre-purchase inspection and unneeded battery. Once I got my money back, I'd plug the battery back in and drive the car home. You will normally be able to drive it one time each time you disconnect the battery.

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Suzy, It appears you are in the CA area, so my comments are not self-serving as we are in the Chicago area. We are an independent shop and we specialize in Electric Vehicles.

75% of the Hybrids that we see that the owner was "told" needs battery pack, either doesn't need one, or the pack was discharged or damaged by another issue in the vehicle. An '08 with 100K on it is barely out of warranty. I doubt the pack is "bad". That pack probably can and should be conditioned, not replaced. If it is severely depleted it is extremely difficult to recharge in place, we normally remove them for charging and testing ( we recommend pm conditioning every 5 yrs/ 60K to prevent pack failure. Toyota knows that, but can't say it because they are conflicted by the overlap of warranty vs the preventive maintenance issue), but the symptoms don't match a pack failure. As someone said, the 12v Glass Mat Battery is used to run all the controllers that engage the High voltage components.

Your Prius hybrid battery is only 75AH+/- and is not designed to provide propulsion for more than about 1.5 miles. It depends on the gas engine and the regen braking to keep the hybrid battery charged. So the bottom line is any engine performance issue or ABS brake issue, will cause the Hybrid battery to deplete and appear to be the problem.

We frequently have issues diagnosing won't start problems on the gas engine, due to the limited time we can run the the vehicle off the discharging battery pack. Most recently was a Prius that was mistakenly filled with diesel fuel and diagnosed by another shop as a bad pack. In reality it was a completely discharged pack caused by a gas engine that would not run on diesel; therefore no way to recharge the pack by either the gas engine or regen.

Your Prius auto-starts the "gas" engine using the high voltage battery and one of the electric motors in the hybrid transmission after it has "launched" (gets rolling) using the High Voltage Battery and an electric motor. As a professional, I know better than to try to diagnose a hybrid problem using codes via email or phone, however, IMHO, I would suspect the AGM battery is discharged, not defective, for some reason. DO NOT toss the vehicle or replace the pack because someone has been unable to correctly diagnose the problem.

After 50+ years in this line of work, I will say that most dealers do not do a good job of diagnosing their own vehicles after warranty, not because they don't have good techs, because they do, but mostly as a result of no experience with and no "high mileage issue" training. Electric Vehicles are making that problem worse. Because the technology is fairly new and changing quickly, most aftermarket shops are not as up to speed as they may think they are. I'd stay with a certified independent Hybrid specialist. If you need a referral, I'll be be happy to help as all the good ones flock together, throughout the US.

 

Who would you recommend in southern CA?

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i know it's along thread, but if you look at o/p's avatar, you will see that she is in hampton cove, ALabama.

if you can locate a certified reputable hybrid specialist nearby, it might be the best post in almost 100.

 

Possible they are using a mobile device and it might not be showing, the same as Max experienced above.

 

ah, thanks!

 

@bwilson4web

 

bwilson4web, but i don't like referring people without asking first, privately.

 

I still say spend $15.00 and buy the Mini VCI.. I have the latest software.. I'll send you a PM

 

Suzy, Although I don't have all the answers for you on your symptoms, I can tell you that your HV battery has a manufacture date of January 14, 2016, as shown by the sticker in your photo with the H141T as the first 5 digits. There's no guessing, or opinion, it is fact.