2005 Prius Rebuild or Replace Battery

The parts counter is the Wild West .

The local dealer I use has one guy there that cuts me some slack on the parts I buy (last one was SLLC for a 40% discount).

But I’ve been there when they want over $300 for wheel bearing hub assemblies .

That thread was strange and seems like a one off to me too. Does the parts counter really inspect each module? I’m happy if they do more than look a part up or quote me a price. Doing actual inspection work I bet they would never do.

But I guess there are always exceptions out there.

 

Customer service in any major corporation is wishy-washy at best; especially at the bottom tier level. Like others, I chalk that incident up to a parts dept. that dropped the ball and then punted and an unknowledgeable customer.

Until you guys (rebuilders) start having issues with core returns, I'd say that was just an isolated incident.

 

Hopefully it is isolated, but I am taking it into consideration when taking cores.

 

You can call a few dealerships and ask that question. Call one that's not close to home

 

I talked to eLearn Aid within the last few months, and for the case of buying a battery rebuilt with new modules, they mainly want your original case returned as a "core". But they don't care about the modules, you can keep and sell any good ones.
Prius 2004-2015 and Prius V rebuilt battery with brand new Toyota battery modules

The reason is that apparently it is getting hard to get Gen 2 cases in good shape. So you send them the case and sell any modules that are still good.

If you are just buying used modules from a Gen 3, that's good for them also since they send you the modules and keep the case for future Gen 3 rebuilds with new modules.

 

I didn't know cases were in short supply. I would think there are tons of cases with all the failed modules. There must be some case hoarders out there!

 

I think they meant cases in their area and that are in good shape. And I've read in other threads where people complain about how bad a shape the case is in for some rebuilts around the country.

 

Well from my understanding, is the more you handle the case, the more it gets damaged. So if you get a "rebuilder" that comes with cases that are all banged up and damaged, that just means he repairs the same battery over and over and over....a very bad rebuilder. I would avoid this rebuilder.

The good rebuilders don't need to repair the battery that many times so the cases are still in good condition. Basically giving you a good indication his service is pretty good without even installing the battery into your car. The bad cases of course would end up as core returns to Toyota when a new battery pack is purchased.

 

As far as eLearn Aid goes though, every indication I've seen is that they do a good job with their modules and rebuilt batteries.

 

eLearn aid does have very good reviews. I believe a member is going through with a purchase of a 2013 battery with them

 

When I went to Auto be Yours in February, there were many cases there.

That was in addition to other large stacks of parts .

 

Aha! ... JC, Ray has found the hoarder! Good work Ray!

 

If you are talking about he screw that goes in the bottom of the module, don't put them in until you have all the modules on the compression rack and compressed up. You then put all the modules into the case as a unit and then screw them down.

If I have misunderstood your problem, my apologies. Someone like @Raytheeagle, @JC91006 or @TMR-JWAP will be able to sort it out.

 

Ah the fun of rebuilding a pack.

Usually modules 1,2,27 and 28 have a slight “bulge” to them so if you don’t put those 2 modules in the correct spot, so get offset as you go.

Have you tried checking each side of each module for flatness in a level surface (like a table, floor, etc)?

If not (or if the seller was nice enough to mark all the module spots before he took them out), I’d mark all the modules that are out of flat and set those aside as they will be your end modules.

From what I’ve found, since the modules on the end (1 and 28) do not have a thermal barrier that cycles temperatures with them, they warp slightly and then modules 2 and 27 are allowed to do the same thing but once you get more than 2 modules in, they are more flat and do not affect the fitment into the case.

Good luck and keep us posted .

 

The proper way to disassemble a pack is to remove the CLAMPED modules from the base of the case. This is very easy to do and won't require much effort in putting the modules back together.

I'll get some pictures later but basically this is the order you should do it.

1. Remove top cover on battery case.
2. Remove bus bars
3. Stand the battery case vertically on it's side so the bottom nuts holding the modules are easily accessible.
4. Remove all the bottom nuts
5. Remove the 2 10mm nuts on the 2 corners of the modules pack (holding the pack to the base)
6. Separate the modules from the base of the case
7. You will have to detach the temperature sensor harness to the ecu

Now the batteries should be separated and you can unclamp them easily and work on the battery without the case in the way.

Assemble in reverse order

 

I was meaning the rods that clamp the modules together.

See JC's post (#76) above.