2002 Prius ICE won't start after oil/ATF fluid change

That sounds like the one I bought. You want the one that fits the 16 pin version. Find your OBD-II socket and see how many pins there are, so that you don't need to take my word on that point.

 

You'll need the 16-pin version. As for the 22-pin versions, they never made sense to me. Our Prius uses ISO-9141 protocol. We have some stickies describing the technology.

Bob Wilson

 

DTC P3005 which relates to the high voltage fuse, usually is logged if the orange traction battery safety interlock is not properly installed. Did you by chance remove that? When the interlock is installed into the traction battery case, the lever is pivoted 90 degrees. Then the lever is slid down to lock it in place. The latter step often is ignored.

The fuse is located within that interlock.

 

You need to remove the trunk lining to expose the traction battery. The orange interlock is located on the left side of the battery case.

I don't think the fuse was blown due to hard acceleration, but the Classic Prius is not a vehicle that is extraordinarily durable and therefore is not a car I personally would allow an unknown driver to take off in.

What other events have occurred in the recent past which might be relevant to this failure? For example, an accident, flooding, etc.?

 

Take a sharp photo of what you are looking at, and post.

 

Neither photo is what I have in mind. There should be a large orange traction interlock switch, on the left side of the traction battery. Or maybe you will see a rectangular or square socket located there, if the switch happens to be missing. If you cannot find this, please take a photo of the entire left side of the traction battery, and another photo of the rear side of the battery (the side facing the rear bumper).

Do you have the cover removed on the traction battery? If so, pls look at the serial numbers of the 38 modules, which should be in sequential order. If they are not, please report that finding.

 

That probably is the traction battery interlock switch. You can check the continuity of the fuse using an ohmmeter. When the switch is reinserted, make sure the lever is pivoted 90 degrees, and then slid down to lock in place. If you have any doubt, provide a photo of this piece.

The modules with numbers out of sequence are not original equipment. Either a prior owner had work done to the battery, or else those modules were swapped into your battery enclosure during the recent rental period, which amounts to theft of the modules that had been removed.

 

There are two wires that start from the modules in the middle of the pack at the rear, and run to the left, but if you follow them closely they do not go to the battery ECU, they go to the service (safety) plug and fuse assembly. When the service plug is removed or the fuse opens, the battery is interrupted in the middle with two halves not exceeding 170 V, just as you have observed.

You say you tested the fuse. I haven't looked closely at the assembly for years - is the fuse in the part of the orange service plug that you pull out, or is it in the socket that stays behind? Or is your orange service plug completely missing from that socket? You reported some difficulty finding/identifying it.

-Chap

 

The recall was just to seal the modules, and there was no need to remove the modules to perform that sealing service. Since you have a multimeter, you can trace the wiring to the fuse and to the traction battery interlock. If the fuse is good, then there may be a problem with the way the interlock is engaged with its socket.

Use the multimeter to measure the voltage of each module, to see if you can find where module pair 9 is. If the voltage reported by the traction battery ECU is 0, that could be due to a broken sense wire connecting to the bus bar terminals associated with that module pair. Also find any other modules whose voltages are below the average voltages produced by the majority of the modules.

Once you have identified the trouble modules, see if their serial numbers are out of sequence (which implies they are not original) or if they are part of the original equipment modules.

 

Welp, there was one other orange part you supplied photos of, and that one is what's affectionately called the "plug to nowhere" (it actually doesn't go nowhere, it's used when the battery needs an external charger). The other orange thing you probably mean is the mechanical interlock over the connections for the cable to the rest of the car. You can learn more about the plug to nowhere by searching this forum.

Both of those orange things are just mechanical reminders that you should have pulled the service plug before you mess with them. The handle on the service plug happens to be the right shape to open those when you need to, so it works as a reminder to have the plug pulled out and in your hand.

The gooey stuff was added in a well-known service campaign "40G" that was done on Gen 1 batteries - you should be able to find the entire step by step instructions to the dealers with a little searching. However, while it did involve replacing the bus bars, it never involved removing any of the modules from the battery case, so it would not explain the serial numbers getting scrambled.

What about the serial numbers you're seeing there? Are they from one consecutive series of numbers, only not in the original order? Or do some seem to be from another sequence?

When you put the service plug back into place (careful, now), do you measure voltages increasing across the whole battery, not interrupted in the middle?

-Chap

 

This is the classic symptom of a broken sense line. On the long buss bar there are a bundle of wires that go to a connector that connects to ECU. One line is broken between pair 9 and 10.

Less likely, you might have a badly corroded connector and plug.

Bob Wilson