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2001 Battery DEAD, can a prius still run?

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Technical Discussion' started by jamerz52, Feb 8, 2008.

  1. Celtic Blue

    Celtic Blue New Member

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    Wasn't the Gen 1 warranty shorter in CA? For some reason I'm thinking the 10 yr/150K for CA is only for the Gen 2.
     
  2. bpassman

    bpassman Junior Member

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    Vehicle:
    2001 Prius
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    N/A
    When my 2001 Prius battery started going bad (175,000 miles) this odd behavior happened:
    The car drives normally until the 3 minute warmup time is passed.
    Then as soon as the computer decides that the system should generate power to the battery, it realizes there is a battery module fault and sets the P3006 code.
    Then it revvs the engine and generator, because the software is confused and as a driver, your only choice is to panic and try to get the car over to the shoulder.
    When you turn the key off then back on, it drives normally again for the next 3 minutes. I don't know why the software does not set the error code and continue to drive normally, like it did during the 3 minute warmup time.

    Anyhow, my resolution was to order the ReInVolt battery replacement and had that put in to my car today. My 90 minute drive back was flawless and I was back to 54 mpg.
    -Bill
     
  3. Redding Prius

    Redding Prius Junior Member

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    2000 Prius
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    Mine took about 3 months.
     
  4. tpfun

    tpfun New Member

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    Is that the planned replacement cycle ?


    Any word of this program ?
     
  5. uart

    uart Senior Member

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    Hi bpassman. If you don't mind me asking, what was the replacement cost for your reinvolt battery?
     
  6. seilerts

    seilerts Battery Curmudgeon

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    Santa Fe, NM
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    Don't waste your $79.99. Lots of FREE info here and elsewhere
     
  7. trumpetmike

    trumpetmike Junior Member

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    Model:
    One
     
  8. trumpetmike

    trumpetmike Junior Member

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    Vehicle:
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    One
  9. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    An AC arc has a 'dead' time as the voltage changes polarity. During this time, the electrodes where the initial arc exists can be turned off by separating them. But a DC arc has no "dead' time so the distances needed to extinguish the arc is significantly longer. It is one of the reasons why an AC circuit breaker or fuse won't work with a DC power circuit. They simply make an arc that won't go out.

    Worse, unless welding, these arcs are not planned and the cables feeding them are often just enough to handle a designed, peak load. But an arc is a very low resistance and the currents can melt the wires. If they are together, it looks like a fuse . . . a very unhappy fuse that often emits toxic, insulation gasses.

    The only safe approach is to disconnect a battery terminal and that is not always practical. But I don't want to scare you as much as suggest caution and thinking about 'what if it arc?'

    There are solid-state fuses that can not arc and work great with DC power circuits. There are also DC specific circuit breakers, another sensible approach. Think and then act sensibly. <grins>

    Bob Wilson