Sorry, I edited after you replied. Using the diagram in post 35, which post is positive? I am trying to match up with the group link I posted earlier.
Not necessarily. I could raise the voltage cut off number but then would have less recording time. Hence the need for a larger capacity battery
Meaning that after the 12V has drained down to a certain level it's supposed to shut off the dash cam. Meaning you still regularly drain the 12V down to a critical level. If you think that's proper, to each his own and best of luck. And I don't mean that sarcastically, you probably will incur more 12V replacement costs over the life of the car, as well as a risk of having a dead battery, but if you accept this as as trade off that is certainly your prerogative.
Use your dash camera in a mode that it only activates when the car is jarred. Or get one that can do this. Or discontinue use of park mode. Looking for a battery that can handle relentless drain is a fools mission.
That’s fine, but when my car gets hit at least I’ll have evidence of a hit and run. It will more then offset battery replacements, not to mention a lowered insurance rate. Most people are good drivers and leave notes behind right?
However then you miss the "preliminaries" such as the person approaching your car just before they smash a side window, or the view of the license plate of the car that is backing towards your car just before hitting it Those could be critical moments needed for identification. Absolutely. The question is whether it is necessary to put the burden on the 12V or if it's better to shift the load onto a second battery dedicated to running the dash cam. Maybe we're old fashioned around here, but because of the critical function of the 12V in operating the car many of us treat it with kid gloves and utmost respect.
the dashcam is hardwired directly into the fusebox, and has a voltage cutoff feature to prevent flats. I only need to find a higher capacity preferably closer it's just a battery, not some diety. Toyota parts are cheap anyways.
No, it's a critical component in the vehicle. Feel free however to treat it as just a battery. Again, to each his own.
I followed your ENJ-LN1 link through Google Translate. Here is what they say about the ENJ part of the model. EN is an acronym for European Norm. In other words, it is a battery conforming to the European Unified Standards. The EN battery originating from EU which is located far north of Hokkaido is the specification originally adapted to the cold district, mainly the CCA value (Cold Cranking Amperes) superiority or lower, that is, the startability of the engine under low temperature, the determinant of the battery performance It was. There are apparently 3 models - LN0 LN1 & LN2. For the OP, apparently LN2 has higher specs but charging current is higher. Here are the specs. Translated Link: Google Translate
I just found a press release. GS Yuasa Battery to Launch ECO.R ENJ Series, <br>Compatible with Toyota Motor’s New Hybrid Models<br>|News Release|GS Yuasa
that's what i figured too at a quick glance. So this morning I actually took out the battery and measured it with my fancy ruler Height 7 3/4, width 6 3/4, length 8, inches. The posts are still 5/8". One thing to remember is that the height isn't as important because the cables are flexible. So the closest is battery group 26 at 8 3/16, 6 13/16, 7 3/4
The press release implies that a special battery is needed for the Toyota HV vehicles "Model list ENJ-LN0 Sienta HV ENJ-LN1 PRIUS (W50) ENJ-LN2 NOAH HV, VOXY HV, Esquire HVALPHARD HV (H30), VELLFIRE HV (H30)" Leaving open the question of whether you can go down to your nearest auto parts store and buy an off the shelf replacement battery for the Gen 4 like you can with other cars. Seems like you should be able to, but it would be nice to know for sure.
Perhaps @Tideland Prius has some hidden information or contacts that could assist. @Prius Team (Toyota US Marketing team for Prius) could get the information, but they are not here much.
There was some mention of that here recently, someone using battery of the sort you get with battery powered drills?
You seem very sure of what you want to do, but without necessarily having checked whether it's achievable. Have you done this, or not? "Calculate how long a fully charged 45 ah battery should keep the dashcam running. If this is significantly more than the run time I was getting in practice, I would get the battery checked by an Auto Electrician. Batteries can be damaged by being allowed to go flat. If battery shows ok, I would get the car checked for a fault that may be causing a current draw while the car is not in use. 3. Calculate what size battery I would need in order to run the dashcam for the length of time I require,and check whether such a battery will fit physically in the car. N.B. Unless you do this, you risk fitting a larger battery that still does not meet your requirements!" Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
The battery needs to power the dashcam + "Prius readiness" systems such as SKS. Some of these can be disabled for less power draw, but reduced vehicle functionality.