100,000 Mile Club

I think it's funny there's even a 100k sticky here. What Jap car other than Mitsubishi and Isuzu (cars, RIP) can't pass 100k? Passing 100k is like the graduation ceremony from elementary school!
Of course, it's so we can all post up how much we enjoy the reliability and the toughness of the Prius II! 103k mi. Looking for another 150k, then we'll talk about a self-driving car (or self-driving with a coke bottle hack!).

 

My '09 is just under 102K miles now. Purchased new in November '09.

Stuff I've had to do (normal maintenance, IMHO):

• Replaced tires once at about 45,000 miles, now needing to replace the replacement tires with winter here and snow/ice starting to appear. (edit - forgot to mention, I run 44 psi front and 40-42 psi rear - normally).
• Replaced the 12V battery at around 3 years.
• Regular oil changes (80% of them done by myself)
• Just had service done on coolant (chickened out doing it myself - just didn't feel I would be able to properly bleed the air out of the engine coolant), replaced serpentine belt, changed transaxle fluid, changed oil. Got a relatively decent deal at the dealer, and had some email coupons that dropped an additional $150 off the price, and I didn't my fingers dirty, or freeze my butt on my gravel drive in 25 degree weather.
  
• I rarely rotate tires - maybe once every 20,000 miles. I've found that the wear is pretty even front/rear, and I hate the idea of constantly taking the wheels on/off. I've had issues in the past with air powered wrenches run by "wheel monkeys" with too much torque and stripping/stretching the threads. I'm sure someone will say - "do it yourself" - I live "in the county", and don't really have a good place to do it - and, as I said, I see virtually no difference in tread wear whether it's done or not. So - I simply do it only 3 or so times before I need new tires (I mostly get 60K-70K mile tires).

Things I don't like, irritants and stupid decisions by Toyota:

• I hate the front seat. I'm 6'4, and about 300lbs, and after about 2 hours, I'm ready to get out and kill someone. One of those things you don't really know doing a typical test drive. Should have rented one, but at the time I bought it - there simply weren't any around. I had to order mine in May '09, and didn't pick it up until November '09. I think in order to make it look roomier inside, they tapered the top of the seat back for driver/passenger. Problem is, the hard foam (which is still in pretty good shape), hits me RIGHT in the shoulder blades. After about 2 hours of that - it's painful. The seat bottom is pretty uncomfortable too. Feels ok for the first couple hours, after that, it just gets painful. Driving 10 hours in this vehicle just isn't possible for me. I'll jump back into a pickup, or something bigger for long trips (where I could REALLY use the Prius) simply because it's uncomfortable for longer drives.
• The entire idiotic auto-A/C is ridiculous. You get in the vehicle on a hot day, and as soon as the car is on, the fan is on at 422.78MPH (yes, I measured it) - like that's going to cool it down right after the engine is turned on. I hate the computerized A/C. Give me simple sliders so I can set it the way I want it! Just because it's 105 degrees outside, running the fan at full tilt will NOT cool the interior any quicker. OR - give the driver a way to program the auto-A/C to their taste.
• The gas GUESS "gauge" has never been very accurate, and over the last 18 months is totally unreliable. I've tried to reset it - but it just doesn't work. Shows 1 (one) bar when it's got 4-5 gallons in it - OR - it shows 1 (one) bar when it has 1.5 gallons in it. Have to go entirely by mileage. I know I can get at LEAST 440 miles per tank without issue, but at that point - better find a station - just in case.
• Trying to reset oil change/seatbelt warning/backup warning/etc/etc is nuts. Just provide a secret settings/maintenance screen on the MFD. The entire push this button, turn on, wait 2.73 seconds, turn off, push another button, contract gluteus maximus on LEFT cheek only in PASSENGER seat, and fart twice loudly (while still holding 5 buttons down with your fingers and 2 with your toes) to set/reset stuff is nuts.
• Did I mention I hate the front seats?

 

This is quite reasonable. My practice is to do the first rotation at around 10K miles and subsequent rotations at 20K miles. The concept is that after the first rotation, it will take 10K miles for the tire tread to wear back to an even depth across all four tires, then the next 10K miles is needed so that the front tires will be worn enough to justify rotating them back to the rear.

 

My 2005 is at 124,000 miles. Bought it with 121K and replaced HV battery.

Did basic maintenance stuff (oil, plugs, filters).

Replacing the 12volt as its reading a bit low (Was installed in 2011 with 90K)

 

So, today Rudy crossed the line to 159,000 miles - still, not a single issue (other than a bad mechanic/mis-diagnose, and a recall thing that wasn't a problem yet).. and, his brakes are just starting to rub. It's also time for another set of tires... this will be set THREE! anyway... so, yeah, his first brake job!

Still puttering along...

 

I'm just checking in early... 07 that I bought in sept 2012, at the time of purchase it had 53,500 miles. Now, over two years later I have 96,000 miles. I predict to hit 100k miles by April.
I have replaced nothing. Oil changes, wiper blades, and cabin air filters. Saved me a butt ton of money on gas over the suv it replaced!!

 

My 2009 Prius turned 100,000 miles on a road trip from Eugene, Oregon to Minneapolis, MN.

So happy with my car I wrote this post:


It’s not a car. It’s my Prius.

I bought my first SAAB in 1983, because it was a car ahead of its time. With front-wheel drive, McPherson struts, disc brakes, 5-speeed transmissions, and the first turbo, these quirky cars routinely went well beyond 200,000 miles. But they don’t make SAABs anymore so last year I bought a Prius.

What surprises me about owning a Prius is the reaction I get from people when I tell them. I get the raised eyebrows of surprise that scream: “you drive a what???” I guess that’s because the Prius is the bane of jokes about slow acceleration and smallness and the sexual prowess or orientation or both of its owner. I don’t get these jokes.

My Prius might be the best car I’ve ever owned. It is far and away the most Quirky. It’s easier if you don’t compare a Prius with a car. It is so different, unique, and advanced that “car” doesn’t cut it. It’s not a car. It’s a Prius.

Toyota designed the Prius to be a Partial Zero-Emissions Vehicle, or PZEV. They did that. And in the process, they built a simple, safe, reliable, low-maintenance, quiet car that gets amazing gas mileage.

It rides like a heavy car, because it is. A battery and electric motor weigh a lot and keeping that weight low creates a low center of gravity that makes it almost impossible to tip. It’s built like a racecar. The body uses spoilers just like NASCAR racers to glue the car to the road at highway speeds. Even high crosswinds on the desert are barely noticeable, and on rainy or snowy surfaces the down force really sticks the car to the road. The engine uses a timing chain like my SAABs that don’t require replacement at 100,000 miles. It’ll burn the cheapest gas you can find. It has a continuously variable transmission, so there aren’t any gears to wear out. The power steering, cruise control, and air conditioner are all electric and remarkable. The interior is bigger than a Corolla, smaller than a Camry. It’s a long, tall, thin car with a turning radius tighter than a Mini. There’s more front seat headroom and rear seat legroom than most SUVs. And it’s faster than anyone expects because the electric motor (with maximum torque at zero RPM) works with the engine when you accelerate.

The buzz on the street is that I’d better be ready to replace the battery and it’ll cost an arm and a leg. Not so. The batteries aren’t failing as the critics predicted. Replacement batteries go for under $1,000. And YouTube videos show how to replace individual cells easily.

I see no reason why my Prius can’t match the 315,000 miles that my 1989 Saab 900 convertible logged before the odometer stopped working.

 

I have a 2008 with about 130k miles, picked it up when it had about 27k miles. Notes:

1. Burns a little oil. I keep a quart in the back to top it off. I change oil every 10k miles using Mobil 1 0W-30. I'm in my early 20's but drive like a grandma, average about 50 MPG.

2. Changed spark plugs at around 120k miles. I had ZERO issues removing the stock spark plugs. Their wear was textbook "normal". The spark plug rubber plug things looked like they were brand new.

3. Changed the ICE and Inverter coolant at a 60k/30k interval, respectively. Almost made a costly mistake when I didn't realize that both coolant systems were separate. Oops.

4. Leather seat has wear, I should probably get a cover for it. Tan interior is difficult to keep clean.

5. Haven't had to replace the 12V battery yet. Had an incident where I took a nap at a rest area and left my lights on, wasn't able to start the car again. This was at 3 AM, but I was able to call the Florida Highway Patrol and a trooper with nothing better to do came out and jumped me.

6. Tiny crack in the middle of the windshield; unknown origin. Has not grown.

7. Having issues with the headlights burning out quicker than they should. Started buying cheapo ones from eBay, haven't had an issue since and they light up the road pretty well.

 

Bah! I was about to hit 100000 miles in a few months. But then my 2004 got totalled.

Prius 2004 totalled. How much is it worth? | PriusChat

 

Hit the 100k mark on my 2008 Prius II purchased on 15 March 2008 to replace a Jeep Wrangler-Rubicon. Great car! Am military, so the Prius got a “rest” a couple of times that my wife drove it while I was away. Since she doesn’t put as much miles on it, and since we generally save road trips to do together, this 100k was not spread out evenly over the years.

Routine maintenance by the manual and all recalls completed.

On 3rd set of tires. Original tires lasted 45k, and replaced with michelin energy savers which were looking like they would only last another 10k at most when hit something in the road and flattened 2 of them around 85k miles. Went ahead and bought michelin defenders.

Still on original 12 volt battery but replaced it during 100k service, just in getting ahead of anything. Also replaced the serpentine belt. Original Brake shoes/pads.

Have replaced all of the bulbs in headlights and tail lights at least once each.

In 2010 the Dealer replaced the combo meter under warranty based upon conditions listed under TSB 0172-09: Electrical System Service Bulletin 343697 NHTSA: Action Number: 10050739. "Failure of illumination in Cold Weather. This happened to me twice in Maryland. Both instances the weather had taken a sudden change to very cold and when I went out in the morning the vehicle would start, would even drive but none of the lights would come on. So I could drive, but could not see fuel gauge, speedometer or nothing that was supposed to be lit. No problems ever since they replaced this.

In 2013 I had a short in the license plate lights the dealer had to fix.

Now the radio fails to recognize the auxiliary port so I will have to get that fixed. Must be a short or a lose wire in there. Inside the center console I've always thought was a silly place for this port.

Otherwise, has held up exceptionally well. A few dings and scratches for character and a couple of places inside where the coloring has flaked away, but great car!

 

were they Energy Saver A/S (all season) or Energy Saver (summer version)?

I'm on the Energy Saver A/S and have over 10,000 miles on mine and they look to have plenty of life left.

Keep in mind you need the PSI above 38 if you want even wear. I'm running 46 front 42 rear right now, might switch it up in the summer and go 44 front 42 rear.

 

Were energy saver all season. Didn't watch close on psi but kept the sensor from being on for any longer than it took to get to air compressor.

 

Hello, Im new.

 

TPMS could be set too low. You have to use a hand held gauge or a compressor with gauge to be sure the air is high enough.

Anything below 38 front 36 rear at the coldest point in the day (after the car has been sitting at least 4 hours) will be too low to prevent excess wear on the outside edges.

 

I cheated and bought my way into a 2007 T-Spirit with 137,000 miles. It drives like new, not the slightest hint of a squeak or rattle. having spent 5 hours detailing her she now looks as flawless as she goes.

 

I do use a compressor with a gauge, but only because that's what's available at the local gas station. Not worth a long dialogue but the bottom line is that tire pressure was not the problem with my energy saver A/S....neither was the alignment as that's been done on install and checked since. They simply did not last. Either bad tires, perhaps I got the lemons, or perhaps it's the roadways I drive on--primarily Texas, Georgia and those states in between. In any case there seems to be no visible wear on the defenders in 15,000 miles of use.

I went back to Toyota today to fix auxiliary jack mentioned in original post. In short it went out again and this time I couldn't get it working again. Toyota replaced the jack for $95 and works like new. I use iPhone nearly always with auxiliary jack to listen to news, audio books or Iheart radio so the $95 is worth it - especially since my hearing is bad so at highway speeds sometimes it's difficult to hear a phone call or the book etc just through the iPhone speakers alone.

 

**oops somehow picked wrong thread on tapatalk app. and I can't delete it. Meant for 200 club****


06 with 203.7k mi. Such a great car. Only costly repair was front wheel bearings at ~160k and 198k. Rears waiting for warm dry day and motivation.
Bought Aug '11 with 113k. Dealer services till I got it. I'm 2nd owner. Gold with tan leather Nav phone, sat.. jbl paid bout 10,3 I think. In NJ. Car was immaculately clean. With chrome hubcaps.
Oh yea, and everything works. Everything. Phone Nav back up camera, just had 2 mo trial satellite radio. This just never stops working! Love it!

1) original HV battery

2) 12v is a used one bought in Craigslist for $20. Failed once in jan cold and didn't fail next 2 colder nites near 1.

3) No

4) No

5) guess at 46-52

6) castrol synthetic or
Blend. Whatever filter in sale. 7-10 k or so. Keep level up




iPhone ?

 

Patrick, Why would the iridium plugs need to be replaced at 150K vs. 120K in California?

 

Probably because the plug change interval in California was specified for regulatory reasons, not engineering reasons. Unless you think that California-formulation gasoline produces fewer spark plug deposits.

I don't know about the relative deposit-producing effect, but my experience is that CA-formula gasoline results in poorer mpg. So, assuming a larger quantity of fuel consumed for a given distance traveled, you would think that would result in more spark plug wear...

 

Thanks for your prompt reply.. I plan to change my plugs at 100K and was just curious