Professional EGR Cleaning Resources

Since I started this thread, and it's not too many pages so far, and it's EGR cleaning related, here's and EGR component removal workflow I typed up, quite a while back. It's still a little rough, may need edits. Doesn't cover intake manifold removal, which should be done too, but that's relatively straightforward:

EGR Component Removal:

1. Remove wipers, lower windshield trim, wiper motor/linkage, and underlying metal cowl. See NutzAboutBolts excellent video for details:

2. Drain 2 quarts(or liters) from radiator drain spigot, into clean container (to be reused). This will drop the coolant level below the EGR system, allow disconnection of the EGR COOLER coolant hoses without spillage.

3. Remove bottom nut from EGR COOLER bracket. This can be done first (or even days earlier) , and due to the difficulty in accessing/removing it, I'd recommend to leave it off; the cooler is quite secure without it.) If you want, back out the stud at that location too, and leave it off permanently as well. (If the doing the latter, it will not be necessary to remove the 2 studs at egr cooler to exhaust manifold connection, and the studs will help retain the gasket.)

4. Remove engine air intake snorkel and air filter box.

5. Remove EGR PIPE. There are 2 bolts at each end, and an additional bolt holding a plastic cover piece at the intake manifold end that needs to be removed first.

6. Disconnect electrical connector from EGR VALVE.

7. Disconnect coolant hoses from EGR COOLER.

8. Remove front/top nut from EGR VALVE, and associated stud.

9. Remove (2) nuts from rear flange connection of EGR COOLER, and associated studs. Be careful to catch the gasket between EGR COOLER and exhaust manifold: it will be loose once the studs are removed. Note: if the stud removal described in step 3 has been done, removal of the rear studs is not necessary.

10. Remove top/centre retaining bolt from EGR COOLER. The EGR VALVE/COOLER assembly should now be loose, able to be lifted out. Be careful not to tip it too much in this process; there's a few oz's of trapped coolant in the lower back corner. Pour this into the previously drained coolant.

11. Install is reverse of removal. Pour the drained coolant into the reservoir, with the coolant air bleed valve open, till coolant starts coming out (for model year 2010/2011). For later years the bleed valve has been deleted, but leaving a topmost coolant hose disconnected would likely serve the same purpose.

Note: not absolutely necessary, but be prepared to raise the front and remove the engine bay undercover. It "may" help with removal of EGR COOLER rear studs/nuts, or may become necessary to recover something dropped.

Note: if stud at EGR COOLER lower bracket has been removed, and studs at EGR COOLER to exhaust manifold have been left in place, it will be necessary to remove the holddown bolt of the metal tubing (gas tank vapour plumbing) that passes over the EGR components, and lift it up for clearance when extracting the EGR Cooler/Valve assembly.

 

Since this is becoming my head gasket repair dumping-ground:

For those considering a boroscope inspection, it's recommended (by the Car Care Nut for one) to pressurize the cooling system, to accelearate the head gasket's propensity to leak coolant. I've been cobbling a bit with my manual pressure/vacuum pump contraption, and tried, successfully I think, to the pressurizing.

You could do this with most anything that pumps air, say a bicycle pump for example. I used a largish fluid trransfer pump, plus a couple of check valves, and a pressure/vacuum gauge I've had since way back:

One thing I learned: you can't just tap into that little spigot on the neck of the reservoir; it has a slot running the length of it's underside, purposely, to vent air. There's also little ears on it, so you couldn't push tubing fully on, seal the slot. Anyway, I used a #4 stopper in the main opening (ID roughly 21 mm):


(I could have pressurized more, but my ancient vac/press gauge kept blowing off. Something to hold it more securely could be used, say spring clamps on all connections)


What I used:

1/4" ID surgical tubing

#4 stopper (you can get them pre-drilled; I just drilled a 1/4" hole in mine)

1/4" plastic barb splicer, pushed into above (I mod'd a T-junction, since that's what I had)

Two one-way check valves, amazon description:
Aluminum Alloy Check Valve Mechanical Industry Car One-Way Anti-Backflow Inline Filter (6mm 1/4" Aluminum Alloy)

1/4" plastic, barbed T-Junction:, amazon description:
Eldon James T0-4NN Natural Nylon Equal Barb Tee, 1/4" Hose Barb (Pack of 10)

Fluid Transfer Pump, amazon description:
ABN Automotive Fluid Transfer Hand Pump Syringe Bottle - Transmission, Brake, Steering, Differential Extractor Dispenser

 

I wonder: