just got a 2010 Prius - need advice

I have no idea, never need to access it. But I "think" someone said you can remove the
plastic wheel lining to access it.

 

Corollas from this era use a belt-drive water pump (as do gen2 Prius)

 

The water pump isn't too bad to get to. A little tricky from above, or you ca remove a wheel and fender liner and get at it from below. Maybe if you are doing the washer pump at the same time that would make sense...

 

Yes but overheating is not a problem on gen3s unless the hg leak has been going on so long there is no coolant left. Most hg fails don’t show a low reservoir and don’t overheat before the severe rattling starts.

 

As long as 'overheating' means "the coolant temperature being hot enough at the cylinder head water outlet where the sensor is to make the red dash light come on", then it doesn't happen a lot in gen 3s.

Toyota released a TSB in Europe that comes right out and says they updated the programming for water pump speeds, to avoid having a too-low flow rate in some operating conditions lead to excessive temperatures in some regions of the engine but not others (or, excessive temperature differences between engine regions). Readings we might see from the one sensor at the cylinder head outlet on a production engine aren't enough for us to show that is or isn't happening.

 

Yes. You’ll be beat though. You’re doing the coolant too? And intake manifold?

There’s prep you can do: at the least get the nut at the lower bracket of EGR cooler off, and leave it off, forever.

If you’ve got an E8 Torx socket*, and a lot patience, carefully break loose the stud there and back it out as well, and leave off, forever. Having the stud off, you’ll not need to remove the two rear studs from the cooler. Note too, with those two rear studs left on, they’ll retain the rearmost gasket, prevent it dropping.

I would also remove the nut/stud at top front, that’s holding the EGR valve to head. Clean the stud threads, apply a little anti-seize and reinstall stud and nut. Ditto for the bolt atop the EGR cooler. Reason: these can be stubborn, so having dealt with them prior to diving in, it’ll go smoother on the big day. Torque for all in pdf attachments to top link in my signature.

When doing the main job get the EGR cooler off and start the cleaning as soon as possible; it’s the one that takes time and attention. Do you have a cleaning strategy worked out. I’d highly recommend scoring a cork (EGR cooler end hole diameters in second link in my signature). if you’re going to soak it with caustic solution; much more efficient and economical than a giant bucket: just cork one end, fill with solution, prop up in corner of laundry sink. More info in top two links in my signature.

if EGR cooler build up is modest Oxi-Clean soaks, for an hour, rinse and repeat, may be sufficient. If not I’d go to lye solution. Also consider gently working a wire through, if needed.

What gaskets do you have on order btw? The pliable ones on intake manifold are worth replacing, but the steel ones on EGR are likely mint. Note with latter, their dimpled-in centres should have depressed side upstream (hopefully makes sense). Too, just note when removing.

* see top link in my signature for mandatory and optional tools.

 

If you use OVEN CLEANER, and a pressure washer, you can clean out the cooler
in an hour or so, depending on how clogged it is. Spray the oven clean in at both ends.
Let it settle in for 30 seconds or so and do it again. Wear rubber gloves!
Then let it sit for at least 30 minutes. Then pressure washer it out. It will get EVERYWHERE,
so be careful and guard your eyes....

Watch a few videos on how to remove everything. You should be able to do it in a day the first time.
I did mine, including the intake manifold in about 2.5-3 hours. But I had a spare cleaned cooler....

 

Oven cleaner, lye solution, take your pick. The latter can definitely be mixed stronger (more caustic). Use only glass and plastic/glass stir rods, funnels (no non-stainless steel, aluminum, wood). Also gloves, eye protection, long sleeved (old shirt) wouldn't go amiss..Always add the lye crystals to the water, not the other way round. With the cooler corked (with inert rubber stopper) it'll take about a cup to fill.

 

I got the same rear washer problem. Can u report back on what ur prob was?

 

It seems the rear washer motor is grounded by the switch. Could be a fuse, motor, switch, wire or clog.

 

There is no water in that battery to check.....

 

That rear diagram was for Douglas. Your front is basically the same except the fuse is 15a.

 

For 3rd gen yes.

IIRC 4th gen (battery moved from hatch to engine bay) they're regular flooded-acid. Then with 5th gen they move it back to the hatch area, but continue to use flooded-acid. That's a bit of a puzzler: maybe regulations (regarding flooded-acid battery in passenger compartment) got more lenient, and they took advantage of it??

 

Sell it now..... or look forward to 4 to 6 thousand in repairs soon....

 

Yes...