Hey, could I get a copy of the harness diagram/pinouts for the old 2018 head unit? I have a 2018 Prius Prime base that I'm going to attempt to upgrade to a different unit. Thanks!
Hey, Tallguy, I read your post where you wrote that replacing the inv pump did not clear the codes. I am having the same problem. I had P0A93 and P0c73 codes. I did not hear the pump running and did not see much turbulence in the tank. Afte replacing the pump, I was able to detect a slight vibration in the hose going to the pump, but still got the 2 codes. I think that the old pump was the same.
Pretty much everybody on here sucks except you and Mendel...... not on here anymore...... hope your doing OK.. I can't delete my account...
I am ok. If I did not still have the v I would not be here. It’s really disappointing to hear new guys buying used gen3s and then discovering issues.
I ask because I've got a couple interesting tips or hacks on how I can tell if my prius engine or battery is getting too hot. But it's for all Prius.
TMR-JWAP Selling my beloved '08 Prius.. Have an old Window laptop with dongle and some version of Techstream on it that worked fine for repairs. Can you suggest if it is possible to try to put some kind of ad somewhere on forum that would make it available to someone who might find it useful? Thanks for any suggestions.
Hi Donjaun. How is the Godspeed AK-066-D rear upper adjustable control arm kit working for you. Honestly it seemed kind of flimsy to me... so I would really like to know before I shell out the cash and the sweat.
I appreciate reading your posts in expectation of inspection and cleaning of the EGR and intact tract. Just to make sure, you are of the opinion that one can remove the two horizontal studs and not replace them after the job is done? Or just the rear one that is so difficult to get at? Thanks.
I would only remove the lower cooler stud permanently, since access is so difficult. You also do need to remove both the nut and stud at the EGR valve, temporarily, ditto for the bolt through top bracket of cooler, and the two nuts at rear, connecting to exhaust manifold. Since those two side studs are removed you don’t need to remove the studs at exhaust manifold.
3. I wish I had known about LKQ.com a year ago. I think i would have been OK with the new master cylinder if i had bench-bled it, but i was pushed in a corner [pressed for time - had to go visit Family] and had to take it to the dealer to let them bleed it for $275.00. BTW, how do U become a senior member ? After all, I'm almost 83 :-)
2. My 'booster/accu.' was good, but now i have all new. In December 2023 the local Toyota dealer quoted me $1100.00 each, but last month their price had dropped to $750, so i bought new instead of paying only $250 from a salvage yard. If i had it to do over again i would at least try the salvage yard unit - LKQ.com was good to deal with.
1. THANK You, Mr. ChapmanF, for answering my questions. My local Toyota parts man was right when he guessed that my problem was an internal leak in the Brakes Master Cylinder [picture of which you labeled brake booster assembly]. BUT, I thought i might get by cheaper changing the booster/accumulator for only $450 from Amazon. Wrong.
hi @Tombukt2, Could you please share me these techstream FW for Prius/Lexus CT gen 3? :) I would love to try on it and flash it into my car for a trial and share experience on the group too. I've recently changed these egr valve and new intake manifold but seem that I still feel the rough/shaking issue even it's better than before of the replacements. thanks again and have a wonderful night :) Riley (htcmember)
