windshield Defogger not working

I'd first give the heater a chance to say what the trouble is. Start with the ignition off and heater fan knob turned to off. Turn the ignition on and, within a short while (5 secs) press the A/C button 3 times then turn the fan knob to auto. The heater button LEDs should slow blink a few times, and then the A/C button LED blinks your trouble code(s). If it just goes to a steady fast blink then it has no code to report and you'll have to find the problem some other way, but otherwise count the blinks to make two-digit code groups (e.g. blink blink pause blink blink longer pause blink blink pause blink blink blink would be codes 22 and 23). You'll know you've written down all the codes when it cycles around and repeats them. Then just turn the key off.

If you report the codes here somebody can look them up; you can also find them yourself in volume 1 of the repair manual at techinfo.toyota.com.

-Chap

 

21 - solar sensor circuit (probably nothing wrong, just no direct sun on the sensor at the time you ran the test)

33 - air outlet damper position sensor (possible trouble areas: outlet control servomotor, wiring harness or connector between servomotor and A/C circuit board, A/C circuit board)

41 - air mix control servomotor circuit (possible trouble areas: air mix control servomotor, air mix damper position sensor, harness or connector, A/C board)

42 - air inlet control servomotor circuit (possible areas: inlet control servomotor, inlet damper position sensor, harness or connector, A/C board)

43 - air outlet control servomotor circuit (possible areas: outlet control servomotor, outlet damper position sensor, harness or connector, A/C board)

Seeing trouble codes for all the servomotors makes we wonder about a common cause. Assuming the A/C circuit board itself hasn't had the magic smoke let out, I'd guess something simple like a bad or disconnected wiring harness connection. Any work on the car lately, especially behind the dash? Audio installation maybe? All the servomotors (and the code 33, outlet damper position sensor) are wired through connector A9, the widest of the three at the back of the A/C control board (and the one at the passenger side, if I'm reading the diagram right). That connector, or some sort of damage to the wiring running out of that connector, might be where I'd look first.

If you spend the cheap subscription fee at techinfo.toyota.com you can find all the suggested steps to troubleshoot these codes (service manual volume I, diagnostics, pages DI-899 to DI-911). You'll also find the service instructions for mechanically getting down to the parts you need to look at (those are in volume II), and the electrical wiring diagram manual, which will show you everything you need to know about the circuits involved and where they run.

Cheers,
-Chap

 

Something like loose or partial reconnection of A9 strikes me as highly likely then.

Last I checked, a 2-day subscription was something like $15 - probably long enough to download as much of the service info as you think you might need.

-Chap

 

Those troubleshooting codes are for the powertrain. It is good to know that you have them, and you'll probably want to follow them up at some point, but they're not about your heater. You get the heater codes the same way you did up in post #3. If you do that again, do you get any new codes (aside from the 21, 33, 41, 42, 43 you already had in #3)? Did you ever find the issue for those codes you had before? (You don't need to worry about the 21, it only means there wasn't much light shining on the solar sensor when you did the test.)

If the car is ON/READY and you turn the blower knob all the way up, do you hear any blower noise at all? The codes you had before were only about the damper servo motors, which would leave the air blowing to the wrong places, but does your new post mean that at that time you could hear the blower operating and now you don't think it's running at all?

The main terminals to the blower are over near the right kickpanel somewhere - the wiring diagram will show you for sure. It doesn't have an old-fashioned blower resistor, but a sort of power transistor package that goes about the same place you'd expect to find a resistor, and that's driven by a signal from the control board. To do serious diagnosis of it you probably want to download the info, but as a first rough test if you found the two main motor terminals, disconnected them, and put a car battery between them, I'd certainly expect the blower to turn.

You could skim hobbit's write-up for ideas, but just remember he was working on a Gen 2, and if I remember right our circuit is not quite the same. I'd definitely download the Gen 1 info if I needed to work on it.

-Chap

 

This mean blower motor is ok.

So problem started after painting? If yes maybe someone forgot to reconnect some cables or something mechanically is blocking servos?

 

If air is coming from any vent as you said in first post blower must be fine because there is only one motor.
There are 3 servos (if remember correctly) moving flaps when vent knob is turned, it is possible they are disconnected or incorrectly reassembled if this was touched at all.

 

In the middle under the console, in my UK model I can see them from driver side

 

Start by looking under dash as that is where it is usually accessable. Should not be that hard and straight forward once you start looking at it.
TomK

 

I don't think so, air filter stopping anything that can block it, rather motor's brushes are out.

 

Try removing the glove box or something. The fan went in as I would bet the car was not built around it. Be sure to let us know asif it happens to somebody else they may find this thread.
TomK