When constantly driving 70 mph for hours the coolant leak from the coolant level

First there is no coolant level warning. That is an overheating warning. Very serious.

Second you most likely have a coolant leak into the cylinders which is then vaporized and sent out the exhaust. A relatively small one. If not that, you may have a bad water pump that works well enough in city driving but can't keep up on the freeway.

Third the fans are not needed at 70 mph. So they are out of the picture.

Get it fixed quick or your engine will be ruined.

 

Our v’s coolant temperature varies from 195 to 198 degrees F cruising at 70 mph, per OBD2.

 

How many miles on it?

 

are you looking in the overflow reservoir?

how much do you have to add?

is it hot in usa?

 

I don't think a v has an overflow reservoir.

Gen 1 and Gen 2 had that. Gen 3 (and therefore v and c also, I think) moved to the degas-bottle style of cooling system, where the plastic degas bottle is included in the normal circulation of coolant, not an overflow. Its level markings are the exact right place to look.

 

All that means is the engine is severely overheating and going into pressure relief through the reservoir cap. It is not the cause of the overheating.

 

Has the radiator/coolant pressure cap failed?

 

In other words, can you get a little more local, say Alaska vs New Mexico?

 

Sometimes new guys don't know the best way to procure free information. Maybe they prefer the $150 to $200 an hour the dealer charges for doing all the ground work.

Saib, add this information in your post about the overheating. Otherwise you will get confusing, irrelevant and conflicting information. Some will happen anyway.

1. Add your location, eg city and state in your profile. If that is beyond your technical ability right now, add it in a post in the public thread. Besides knowing if its 55f or 105f where you are, you may get some local shop recommendations to save you money.

2. Add information about the car. How many miles, how long have you had it, what other repairs has it had in the past?

3. What other problems does the car still have?

4. Is the check engine or hybrid malfunction light on?

5. If there are trouble codes, what are they? What scanner was used to get those codes?

6. Provide your mechanic or diagnostic ability and experience. Otherwise most will assume you have tools, scanners and years of experience and are ready to execute detailed repairs.

Finally, your responses will be moderated, eg checked before made public, for the first five responses. The smart thing to do is to immediately add more responses and your dialog will become faster after that.

 

You’re welcome.

 

This is probably what is happening. Mine was the headgasket being blown but from what I've read it could also be a bad coolant pump. Took me over a year to get my car finally somewhat running so good luck.

 

JUNK...... get rid of it...............engine ruined..........................

 

When the temperature icon blinks; that means your overheating.
Coolant should never boil; it's coolant.. You've got a blown head gasket and your engine is pushing hot exhaust gases into the coolant. The engine heat combined with the hot exhaust gases is what is causing it to boil out. Your radiator can't remove the heat from the coolant fast enough.
If you keep driving the car this way, the head gasket hole will get larger. If the hole gets large enough to suck in coolant; you can punch a hole into the side of your engine and or damage enough engine components to make it unrepairable.

 

Due to a hydraulic lock…

“If the hole gets large enough to suck in coolant; you can punch a hole into the side of your engine and or damage enough engine components to make it unrepairable.”

 

Which is coolant, an uncompressible liquid, in the cylinder. When the piston tries to come up it's stopped by the volume of coolant at the top, and something has to give. That could be bent piston arm, failed bearings, blown damper between engine and transaxle.