Wheel bearing hub and knuckle replacement questions.

I don't think you'll have any problems there's no magnetizing needed I don't believe I have a tone ring out right over here and I don't think it's magnetized the sensor on the other hand I believe has a nub of a magnet sticking out of it That's why it allows crap to get all over the end of it and why someone needs to clean it every so often The tone ring or the thing with the little slices in it is just breaking the magnetic hold as it goes round and round I guess. I use the TRQ brand hubs and have had no problem in about 100,000 mi so far so for the 3rd of the price or less that they are to purchase it's well worth it considering this job takes me about 45 minutes aside on a bad day usually I'm catching the strut the lower control arm ball joint and all that in one fell swoop possibly break pads and rotor too that way they're that side of the car is not getting touched again for another $200,000 miles rather than piece meal one part here and there like you say the bolts are holding the hub in unless the slop is excessive I don't think these are new assemblies you're buying from dorman they're probably used cleaned certified what they call remanufactured so when they glass bead or blast out that diameter where the original bearing would sit a slight bit of material is lost but nobody really gives a hoot because the bearing is bolting in. If you really worried about that space water getting in salt getting in you could put silicone grease in the space and let it ooze out when you squeeze it together with the bolts that'll help with any buildup The originals that I'm always undoing salt and moisture and whatnot has gotten in that space and usually you have to flip it over in between two 4x4 pieces of wood and use a dead blow hammer to knock the bearing out 6 1/2 a dozen doesn't really matter I don't think you'll have any problems with basic hand tools from Walmart remember righty tidy and lefty loosey A lot of times the way to undo a very tight bolt is to give it a half of a nudge towards the right to tighten it might make a click and then reverse your ratchet or what have you and start to remove that'll save you a lot of bolt heads nut heads whatever and good luck should be pretty straightforward these are great to work on this job is an easy one don't overthink any of this stuff Toyota already did that for you.

 

As to the Dorman knuckle - is there no chance of reusing the OEM? Sanding out some of the corrosion where the hub bolts in is better. I don't think I'd have a problem with Dorman disk brake dust covers, except the Toyota ones aren't that expensive.

The TRQ bearing? I'm not sure what is a good bearing these days. I put in Moog a few years ago, and one failed after a couple years. I put in SKF, but had trouble with their transition from being a Japanese-manufactured bearing to being a Chinese one. 2020 and the supply chain shortages really screwed us on this. I kept sending them back until I had a matching set of old stock Japanese-manufactured bearings - so this delayed my repair for about a month. Getting one from Toyota seems to be the gold standard.

I used a bit of anti-seize between the hub and bearing, which didn't make much of a difference. I used some between the hub and the disk, which made a lot of difference. The galvanic corrosion between the hub and wheel bearing definitely glues the hub in place after a bit. I also used blue Locktite on all the bolt threads. Bue can be undone and it reduces the galvanic corrosion between the bolts and the hub. Having to sand the corrosion out of the original knuckle is normal. I wouldn't worry too much about a small gap between the knuckle and the hub, as long as the bolts hold the hub in place. Don't worry, the galvanic corrosion will form before too long and glue the thing in place.

As to the magnet, The speed sensor itself is magnetized, to the point you'll need to make sure it doesn't have any metal stuck to it when you reinstall it. Other speed sensor designs use the magnets in the hub/bearing and read those with the speed sensor, but that's not this one.

Other things - I ordered new axle nuts from Toyota. Bearings and such come with new axle nuts, but they are 6-point, and I also think they may be 31 mm or 32 mm, where the original ones were 30 mm and 12-point. Axle nuts are cheap, having to buy two large sockets to do the job is more expensive.

 

The axle nuts interchange but if you want to put the six point they screw right on and if you have to remove the 12 point well you'll have to have the socket

 

You don't need to lock tight any of this business notice that you can use an allen key in the studs on the ends of the end links usually I just replace the end links the whole bar and all of it usually comes with my struts when I buy them just be careful you don't strip out the hole where the Allen key goes so you can undo the ones on the car without having to destroy anything then just tap them out with a hammer and put the new and Link assembly in

 

Speaking for myself only.

I use the BLUE Loctite (not the red, but the blue - medium) on the bolts holding the hub to the knuckle, the ones holding the caliper frames to the knuckle, and the ones holding the calipers to the frames. It doesn't hold that tight, so you can remove the bolts, and it also helps to prevent some of the galvanic corrosion that locks things together after a few months.

I use anti-seize on the splines between the axles and the bearings as well as the surface of the hub where it meets up with the inside of the disk.

If you are doing the brakes as well, watch some of the YouTube videos on what should be lubricated there as well. I like the guy from South Main Auto's YouTube channel for lubricating the brake parts.

 

Toyota repair manual "occasionally" spec's a thread-lock, or thread-sealant. With some of the bolts on the damper between transaxle and engine the spec a thread lock, and a thread sealant for the threads of the PCV valve. The latter basically to avoid chance of oil bloom. I can't recall seeing any such mention, for the front suspension or brake bolts.

See attached. Also, the last link in my signature (on a phone turn it landscape to see signatures) is the full engine section; it'll have the damper bolt thread-lock spec.