What Realistic Owner Maint can be performed.....?

It all depends on what tools you have and your level of mechanical knowledge and skill. For some, changing their own is too much to comprehend.

 

There's really not much more routinely needed other than inspections. I just turned 25K, and all I've done are oil & filter changes, cabin and engine air filter changes, and tire rotation -- all DIY. For me, Virginia's annual safety inspection will cover safety-related items. At my next state inspection I'll probably have them give non-safety items underneath a good look while they have it on the lift.

 

For most vehicles it is only oil and filter changes. It has been like this for years.

 

Add new gasoline before it runs out. The guess gauge makes it a challenge though.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(dorf @ May 24 2007, 10:44 AM) [snapback]449177[/snapback]</div>

You can forget the brakes too, other than possibly adjusting the rear brakes.

There have been some real horror stories of owners bleeding their own brakes or even changing the front pads.

This car was not made for the shade tree mechanic.

 

On the 'easy' list, I'd like to say that tire inspections and rotations are important. Look for cracks in the CV joint boots also.

You did not mention the engine air filter nor the cabin air filter, but I will. Both are very easy.

With proper lifting jacks and a bit of training, it is no bother to know the condition of the ball joints and brakes. All that closely resembles other modern front wheel drive cars.

Moving up, the coolant and transmission fluid changes are 'mid-level' DIY. Here, the technical manuals will be of some assistance.

Eventually, a brake fluid change will be required. As I understand it the Toyota THHT tool is required to do this for the new model Prius, so it may not be DIY. But tests of the brake fluid %water absorption at any competent brake shop are (or should be) routine.

When your 12 volt battery poops out, install a new one.

Basically, the DIY can do almost all unless/until a hybrid system problem presents itself. Then, a competent Toyota Prius shop will be invaluable. I visit them only rarely, but never without a bag of cookies for bribe!

Toyota tech manuals are also available from their 'techinfo' web site, subscription $10/day. Or, if copyright piracy does not weigh heavily on your mind, look for them all together on a CD from eBay for about $20.

 

how does one determine if the car needs a brake fluid change? I picked up the car with lots of miles so its hard to determine what was done on the car... i guess i'll leave toyota to do this one for me... although my brakes are squeaking at light contact... (i can't replicate the squeaking unless i'm in D... but if i'm in N i can't make them squeak Wth?)

bleh sucks to have a car and not know what's has been done or what's been done... its almost like i have to blow money to do it all at once!

oh when does spark plugs need changing? how can I tell by looking at the spark plug if i need to change them? man its like 90 dollars for a single plug and changing all four is like... wow! imagine that labor pooled in :S

 

Brake fluid water content is measured with an AC conductivity meter, water-sensitive test strips, or (indirectly) with copper-sensitive test strips. As water % increases, copper begins to corrode away from some internal metal surfaces.

Your competent brake shops will have at least one of those types on hand.

The correct iridium spark plugs can be found for $10 each or a bit less. They have been changed by brave DIYs here at Prius Chat, but mine are still original at 105 k miles.

I guess that strictly speaking, in Calif. plugs are supposed to be changed at 60k. At my 60k service in Calif, they just removed and inspected the plugs and put 'em back in. Works for me.

Removing the plugs at about that time and putting some 'anti-sieze' on the threads may make it much easier when replacement time does roll around.

We should also be replacing our PCV valves sooner or later, but I have been scared to dig down that far. An easy one that I forgot to mention before is cleaning soot off the throttle butterfly, and wiping oil out of the intake manifold underneath.

Phil, if your brakes squeal in D but not N, that means their anti-squeal shims are not doing their job completely. Increased pad pressure in N quiets them down. You could live with it, or do a Hobbit-style preventative maint.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(tochatihu @ May 25 2007, 07:19 AM) [snapback]449750[/snapback]</div>

good info, my prius "taxi" is approaching 170,000km I had no idea the prius had the anti-squeal shims because my reasoning was when in D and when braking like suddenly (emergency) the friction brake would slightly rub agaist the brakes making that sound, when increasing pressure a combination of regen and friction kicks in so the noise dissapears, but its usually apparent when making sudden braking motions... but when braking for regen the problem is not apparent... but at first I thought " oh no my friction brakes are running out!" but I've never heard of the warning sound before (you know the sound that its time to change ur brakes?) so I don't know what to expect.

oh boy PCV valve i better call toyota and get some price estimates... boo! and i guess the rest are doable by DIY... its just I don't want to pay for manuals! So I snoop around web sites like hobbit and bob wilsons for the best in info! Other people's experiences just work good enough for me so share more often! hehe