What part is needed for “reseal timing cover”

Use the search forums link up top and search for timing cover leak
In the proper Gen 3 forum.

I think it uses Fipg sealant. Form In Place Gasket.

 

The timing chain cover is a large aluminum panel that runs down the passenger side end of the engine (aka the "front" of the engine).

I would first look for yourself, see how much it's leaking, just looking down from above with a light. For a better view: removing the front/right wheel and a few of the fasteners on the plastic panel at back of that wheel well, you can see near the bottom how things look.

The "part" that seals is a tube of sealant. If it's leaking extensively, the repair involves removal of the panel, cleaning and reapplying sealant. It's not trivial: the (beltless) pulley on the end of the crankshaft needs to be removed, and it's fastened by a high-torqued bolt. The engine mount also needs to come off.

This video is shows head gasket replacement, but does show removal/install of the timing chain cover in the process:

Toyota spec's a sealant for this, and if you research there are a few more readily available sealants that'll work.

 

The only parts needed are a couple of O rings, a replacement crankshaft seal, and a tube of FIPG to apply around the edges of the timing cover. So simple, in theory.

There are very strict specifications on how to apply the FIPG, the surfaces (both the timing cover and the front of the engine) have to be squeaky clean and oil free, and you have a stopwatch going from your first squeeze on the FIPG tube to the cover being secured correctly in place 3 minutes later. Mendel attached those instructions a few years ago.

The robots that do that in the factory are probably really fun to watch.

If you're trying to do it yourself in cramped conditions without the engine pulled from the car, you're taking a gamble that it won't leak worse after you're done than it did when you started. You can't bump the engine or the cover with the blob of grease on your wrist while sneaking your arm down where you can't see, or you have to clean it all off and start over. If you don't have the cover correctly positioned and secured, without false starts or sliding, in the right number of minutes, from when you start squeezing the tube ... you clean it all off and start over.

It's a pricey job for the labor, and every penny is earned.

 

Yeah the clock running on Toyota's FIPG (Form-In-Place-Gasket) is a little insane. The attachment also indicates all bolts on the cover should torqued by T+15 (min's). Also, oil filter and engine mount brackets installed by T+10.

Any thoughts on an alternative FIPG, with a more leisurely cure time?

 

i would make sure something else isn't leaking first.

personally, i would put a pan on the ground where i park, and watch the oil consumption between changes

 

At 165k miles I would only buy a quality oil sealant like AT-205. I used it on my 2016 Mazda 3 on exactly the same oil leak on the timing cover and it worked fine. Dealer was asking $1500 to reseal it.

 

These are the parts you will need:



Note:
96721-24015, qty 2
96723-24020, qty 3

I will be re-doing the job on my 2011 this week. Pay very close attention to the T-Joints; if you do not run enough extra RTV in those spots, it will leak again, and sometimes, it takes 40-50k for it to happen. Don't ask me how I know.

 

What are the "T-Joints"? Those horizontal split-line locations?

 

Yes, and you need to run a bead across the entire length of each joint. There are 6 total. This is in addition to adding extra on the timing cover side.

 

ocr'd the pic in your post #9:


1625837010 ENGINE VALVE COVER GROMMET

0029500103 FIPG OIL PAN

9021006013 ENGINE VALVE COVER GROMMET

1121337041 GASKET CYLINDER HEAD

135520T020 GASKET CHAIN TENSIONER

1627137020 GASKET WATER PUMP

9672324020 O-RING

1115937010 GASKET CAMSHAFT BEA

90430A0001 GASKET

1632637020 GASKET WATER INLET

90311A0018 SEAL, TYPE T OIL

9672124015 O-RING

 

Autozone is overpriced. Rockauto is a better option.

However...

The picture appears to have the w/p gasket, various o-rings for the block, two oil filter housing o-rings, crank seal, timing chain tensioner gasket and the tiny o-ring seal for the skinny bolt that gets torqued to 7 ft-lbs.

But you will still need a valve cover gasket kit and RTV. Right Stuff Black from Permatex should work if you want to avoid the dealer.

 

That looks correct for the valve cover gasket. There is an "8" shaped gasket that is needed, not sure if your valve cover kit includes it?

 

Got started on my reseal tonight. About 30-40 min in.

 

Made some progress on mine tonight. Got the timing cover, cam housing and head cleaned. Still need to clean the block and holes, then I will take the parts to the parts washer.

OP, how’s yours coming along?

 

Is cam housing off necessary for resealing the timing cover, or did you just want to?

 

Just wanted to. When I resealed in during the head gasket job, it was a bit sloppy in a few spots.

 

It is also easier to clean with the chain removed.

Currently waiting for o-rings and gaskets to arrive so that I can start reassembly.