What do you suggest to do next?

Hello,

I am not mechanically inclined, yet coming from working on both computers and musical instruments, I can confidently assure every screw went back to the exact same hole as I replaced the ABS/Actuator on my Prius 2007 Gen 2. Every connector was connected properly, and all the way in.

Part of the errors here may be due to having drained the coolant, and the system may need to actually run in order to self diagnose itself and calibrate again, at least, that much I understand.

My main concern here is the U0129 code, which incidentally was present BEFORE I even got started with this process. I thought it would be simple enough, but doesn't seem the case, at least at this moment. The "Lost Communication with The Brake Control Module", was there before I removed the first screw. I also found some fuses had blown, lost track of those before even using TechStream to start diagnosis.

The ABS actuator was going already, had been making the much too regular noise on a consistent basis, and it now purrs like a nursing kitten instead, once it warns me with a long beep when I even get in the car of course. One thing I have noticed now is the module, which is located next to the 12 volts battery makes on click when trying to turn the vehicle on. No lights on dash, no nothing. I get the now soft running sound from the ABS pump, and nothing more.

I noticed the U0129 comes both from the Hybrid Control, and the Cruise Control, which makes me suspect a bad wire, or a bad/faulty module.

If I find fuse(s) blown again, will this give me an indication of what exactly to do next? If I don't find any blown fuses, what should I do next?

I'm all ears and running against my self imposed time, on Saturday I will take it to Toyota and pay through the nose for whatever this may be.

And I must confess I feel like replacing the Brake Control Module first, that black box next to the 12 volts battery.

The hybrid battery is charged with certainty, I also took this opportunity to install a Prolong charger/conditioner.

 

Thanks,

indeed there were a few blown fuses as I stated, but I am not sure which ones they were. I can check again to see if they blew again after replacing them, hoping that will lead somewhere. Here's the background details you asked for. The vehicle was being parked away from home and I noticed it showing almost empty fuel as I turned it off, that was not possible given I had just filled it, so I turned back on and off while verifying the reading was still "full", and it was (this was possible the first indication of something going bad). I skated the night away at the rink, and when I came back to turn it on and head home, it didn't. We tried jumping it that night but it seems the battery the guy with a tow had was no good. Anyway, I left the car in that parking lot, and my wife picked me up. The next day we went and disconnected the 12 volts battery, then went to a nearby IKEA for a few hours, then came back and it started when jumping it. I drove straight home and parked it inside the garage as it was night time thinking I would be able to jump it again the next day. The next day it didn't jump, it didn't start, and later I discovered the 12 volts battery was bad (bough a charger that diagnosed it as such), so I bought another 12 volts battery from Toyota, put it in, and nothing. The ABS was making awful noises already, so I decided to replace the ABS accumulator myself. Found TechStream and got only the U0129 code before even getting started, did the replacement, and now I have the other codes too.
When you replace the ABS actuator you have to remove the Synergy Drive component, which has all kinds of connections to engine coolant.

One interesting observation is that when trying to jump it the last time it sparked off my marine jumper (which has a protection circuit) even though the connections were correct, I can still see the spark mark on the terminals, and it was connected correctly. I suspected a hybrid battery malfunction (inverter indeed) bleeding into the 12 volts, but I have no way to diagnose this. As it is now, the Hybrid battery is good (bought the prolong charger and tested it), the 12 volts is good, and I got chargers for both. If the inverter failed, the hybrid battery was not badly discharged even after a couple of months either, but the mileage had gone South big time for that last ride at about 40 mpg.

Thanks for the TIS suggestion, I may choose to do that as a brief subscription indeed, and hey, you can always print to PDF and save the documentation instead of using paper. Not difficult to find how on your own, there are a myriad of ways.
Thanks again!!!