What do I need at 100k? 2008 Prius

HI! Sounds like you've done very well so far with maintenance. I would get the cabin air filter changed (especially with a new baby) you can buy on amazon for cheap! I'd also replace engine air filter, or at least inspect it. Those two are easy!

The Prius calls for new spark plugs at 100,000 maybe 120,000 miles. so you might want to go ahead and replace them.. up to you!
my 2005 has 240,000 miles and all it needs is oil changes and little things like i suggested above.

 

no. the service packages are a dealer scam. one thing you may want to consider is changing the tranny fluid. toyota calls it lifetime, but experts here, who have had their fluid tested say there is a lot of damaging debris suspended. it should cost $100. - $150. at the dealer, don't let them talk you out of it.

if the car seems to be handling fine, and you're not getting unusual tyre wear, your shocks and struts are fine and you can wait until you're having problems.

there should be a maintenance section of your owners manual. if you can't find it, try toyotaowners.com they may have a pdf. all the best with your new baby!

 

i have no idea what passport could mean. I also would say around 100,000 is a good time to get your coolant changed. i know a lot about cars, but coolant is the one thing i don't really know much about. Maybe someone could chime in?

Oh! just thought of something for you to get done. Change the transmission fluid! (actually the prius doesn't really have a transmission, its a power slip device.. its what drives you car, having two electric motors in it!) Toyota actually doesn't recommend getting it changed, and they say its a lifetime fluid. DONT BELEVE THEM, its not. Your prius uses 4 qts of Toyota WS transmission fluid. you can buy a 4 pack on amazon for like 40 bucks.

Most cars have 8-12 qts of transmission fluid, but since it has a transmission not like conventional cars it only uses 4, which makes it quicker for that fluid to get dirty and break down. All the more reason to change it. You can get your service department to change it, you could bring them the fluid you bought on amazon. If you buy the fluid there it will be more expensive.

 

never heard of anything called passport either.

 

This might be what you're looking for:

2008 Prius Maintenance Schedule

 

Good work Yakoma!

 

Yeah, I think the "passport" is just an extra little booklet that you can get marked each time your Prius gets serviced so you have a record of it. Like Yakoma just posted

 

Welcome, and enjoy motherhood.

Sign-up for Amazon-mom (essentially Amazon Prime) and Target Red Card. Diapers have always been cheapest from Amazon via the Subscribe-and-Save option, until Amazon started collecting taxes in California. Don't be afraid to buy a "used/open box" diaper off Amazon; the outside box got a little banged up and is no longer pristine, it may have been a return (baby outgrew the size), etc., but the diapers are still in the original plastic sealed bag, so you are safe. Target Red Card to save 5% off nearly everything in Target and at Target.com. FREE ground shipping at Target.com when using your RedCard; NO minimum purchase required! Red Card functions as a debit tied to your checking account or you can opt for a credit card version.

Wow, new car every 50,000 miles.

child voice: "Mommy stop wasting money. Keep the car a lot longer and put the savings into my College 529 savings plan. Its not about you anymore, its all about me. Thanks!"​

Toyota.com and Internet serach engines (Yahoo, Bing, Google) are your friends.
Toyota Online Owners Manuals and Warranty
2008 Scheduled Maintenance Guide (SMG; or as you call it "Pasport") is attached for your convenience.

Tell dad, all front struts and rear shocks need to be replaced! Push test is one way to judge, but its not very accurate.
Both of you should read:

my post #48 (Hints Regarding Replacement of 2G Front Struts | Page 3 | PriusChat)
my post #3 (Replaced Rear Shocks | PriusChat)​

After this experience, I'm a firm believer in the strut manufactures claim of 5yr/50,000mile replacement interval (to maintain OPTIMUM suspension characteristics).
Post #6 for parts/prices and dealer labor rates (2007-2009 Touring,Is steering and handling better than standard prius? | PriusChat)
Struts/shocks keeps the tire on the road. Poor/failed strut/shock = poor braking performace, poor traction. Not good.
Inspect the other suspension components too: tie rods, ball joints, bushings, etc.

Spark plugs change at 120,000 miles. Use the recommended Iridium plugs from NGK or Nippon Desno.

Coolant - change at 100,000 miles/12years, then every 50,000 miles/5years. DRAIN and FILL only. NO FLUSHING!
There are two cooling loops: 1) Engine. 2) Inverter/Transaxle.
Art's Automotive makes a compelling point to drain/fill every 2-3years (~ 36,000 miles; assuming 12,000 miles/year). Source Link: Prius 30k Service
As some have stated here, Toyota's maintenance schedule is a MINIMUM, and many of us here believe they are leaving out some key maintenance items.

Transaxle (think transmission) - Drain/Fill no later than 60,000miles. You are overdue. Use 4 quarts Toyota ATF-WS (~$8-$10/quart); stick w/ genuine Toyota ATF-WS.
Toyota says its a lifetime fluid. No lubricant lasts forever; nothing that gest used lasts forever. As someone stated it best: Toyota's idea of lifetime (say 150,000 miles) is very different than a consumer's idea of lifetime. One needs to sell cars, the other wants to hang onto their money.
My transaxle started to die at 99,100miles; ATF-WS fluid had never been changed. I got lucky as it was replaced under CARB warranty. After this experience, I learned this fluid needs to be changed!
Consider getting a magnetic drain plug for the transaxle. Prius Member "Rude person's" makes these too.
Read my post #473 (http://priuschat.com/threads/atf-fluid-changes-are-required.119530/page-24#axzz3P9DvVV3R). A lot of good info and contains a study link of used ATF-WS oil analysis by Bob Wilson and Professor Eddenberg.

Brakes
Front disc brakes - inspect, clean pads/rotor w/ brake cleaner, scuff the pads w/ sand paper (say 100 grit), RELUBE the front caliper pin! Many service people/DIY folks forget about this, resulting in front brakes wearing out faster. Important this gets checked and relubed as needed.
Rear brake shoes - inspect, clean shoes/drum w/ brake cleaner, scuff the shoes and rotor w/ sand paper (say 100 grit), re-grease the rear shoe contact points.

Brake Fluid
Good idea to have the entire system flushed out, by 100,000miles. If you don't have Techstream software and miniVCI cable, you will have to go to the dealer (I recall someone saying $100-$150). This item is not even mentioned at all by Toyota. Supposedly the new models now have complete brake fluid flush listed at a specific interval. If you read the link for Art's Automotive above, he makes a compelling reason to flush regularly.

Engine Air Filter
Replace as needed: "Remove the filter and hold it up to a bright light (not direct sunlight, but indirect sunlight). If the filter is very dark and transmits little light, it is dirty and needs to be replaced." (Source Link) You can always change it more frequently if wanted.

Cabin Air Filter
Change as needed. Easy to get to, too. You will likely be changing this more frequently than the engine air filter.

Throttle Body/Plate
Clean every so often. Many articles written on how to do this and lots of You Tube videos; some are better than others.

Tire Pressure.
Factory door jamb of 35 PSI front/33 PSI rear, is too low. From what I have read here, most seem to go 40/38 or 42/40. NEVER EXCEED the sidewall maximum PSI listing. Get a good quality digital pressure gauge. Tire pressure should always be measured cold. If you measure after a long drive, you will get a false high reading, due to heat. Perhaps measure in morning while still cold/cool, and tires haven't been exposed to sun too long. Or measure after car has sat for some period of time and tires have cooled.

CHECK Oil Level regularly
Many people don't check their oil level, and come here panicking b/c they saw the "low oil" light, which is actually a low/no oil pressure light. Essentially what happened is the oil level was low to begin with. Braking hard or taking a turn hard made the oil shift in the oil pan, causing the level to drop below the pick-up tube, to where no oil was being delivered to the engine. If you check it regularly (weekly/monthly), you notice when your car beings to burn oil and how much; the more frequently you check, the better. Check the oil on a flat level surface with the engine having been off, for hours (ideally before you drive it off in the morning). This ensures that nearly all of the oil is in the oil pan to give you as accurate reading as possible.

Bisco has it right regarding the "service package." Dealership scam to take as much money away from you.
Price the traditional oil & filter change w/ tire rotation. Then ask them how much for these services and is there a AAA discount, multi service discount, new mom discount, etc.:

• Transaxle drain/fill ($100 likely)
• PCV valve replacement (maybe $75-$100)
• Engine and Inverter coolant drain/fill (maybe $100-$150)
• Complete brake fluid flush. ($100 likely)
• Brake inspection/cleaning/adjustment/relube (maybe $50)

Member Galaxee has a very good article on what services you need.
What services you need and what you don't | PriusChat

Since you are in Phoenix, maybe message Patrick Wong to see if he would want to earn some DIY money? Its insane how much he knows.

 

I'd much prefer to have Patrick work on my Prius before any of the dealers. I don't live in Arizona and I don't know if he'd take side jobs.

 

just thinking, if your car had the inverter pump recall, and they changed the fluid, do you still need new fluid at 100k, or 100k since the recall?

 

Thanks exstudent! You post very helpful.

 

Technically yes, the service technician is supposed to drain the coolant, then replace the pump, as this is listed procedure for an inverter pump replacement in the Toyota service manual. However, reality says otherwise. Short cuts exist, saving the tech time = get to more jobs faster = more money for him. The dealership gets more money by using considerably less coolant, as Toyota reimburses them for one gallon of SLLC, for each warranty procedure. Dollars add up fast for tech and dealer.

The likely reality is clamp the hoses, loose a few ounces of SLLC, replenish the system w/ the lost ounces of SLLC, bleed the system.
Notice the clamps at 1:06. Great time lapsed video. This tech makes it look super easy. Most importantly he bleed the system.

Wish the dealers would state the coolant was NOT replaced, just topped off. I'm sure most people have picked-up their Prius assuming the coolant was replaced when the inverter pump was replaced.

 

My 2005 has 377K on it. It will never go back to the dealer. I bought all three official manuals from Lexology my mechanic I was referred to him by a Lexus Field mechanic Kevin Foyt. I explained I wanted an honesty in a mechanic one that knew I wanted someone I could trust to do stuff I couldn't / shouldn't do. So far that has been the replacement of serpentine belt and the high voltage battery.
I recommend Castrol "use your dipstick" synthetic oil every 10,000 a Bosch oil filter though if the oil doesn't look clean I'd change the oil filter sooner. I replace the cabin air filter at the same time. Though I drive in central CA and pollen in spring makes me change it often. I had the blower fail once on vacation so won't let it ever get filthy again. The short answer is a knowledgable mechanic committed to saving you money on maintenance over the next 200,000 miles you'll need a great deal on a battery someday and you don't know when, just be ready and that paperwork stating the battery was from the dealer installed correctly is worth $3,000


iPhone ?

 

Congrats on the fantastic longevity of your Prius.

If you don't mind me asking, what did the cost of the manuals run you, Paul?