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Warning lights :(

Discussion in 'Generation 1 Prius Discussion' started by Mjolinor, Nov 13, 2009.

  1. Mjolinor

    Mjolinor New Member

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    Bit desperate. It must be a sign of the quality of these things that I haven't been posting for a while but I now have a problem.

    I bought a 2002 a year ago and all has been well. This car was for my dad in the UK, I am in Greece working and it has developed this problem. I am trying to diagnose through my sister. She has taken these two pictures. I can call on friends to assist and if required I can get the cell voltage read outs off the main battery, I already got a friend to charge the small battery but he is very nervous about this particular car having no experience at all with hybrids. The car does very little miles, average maybe 2 miles a day.

    Before I do call on people to test specific things I would appreciate some input so that I can hopefully not take too much of their time and minimise any risk because obviously things need to be approached differently. I've searched some on here and other places but am struggling to find specific tests that can be defined.

    Car has done 90,000 miles and is in pretty good order generally.

    All input gratefully accepted.
     

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  2. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    OK, if the 12V auxiliary battery is in good condition, then it is likely that you have a serious problem: could be the traction battery, transaxle, inverter, or hybrid vehicle ECU.

    The very low usage of 2 miles per day is not helpful and may have contributed to the demise of the traction battery (if in fact that has failed.)

    Suggest you have your dad take the car to the local Toyota dealer if they are trained on Classic Prius, for diagnosis and a repair quote.
     
  3. Mjolinor

    Mjolinor New Member

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    Hmm, local Toyota response last time I called there in it they came out of the workshop to look having never seen one. Doesn't fill me with confidence :)

    What I seem to have gleaned from what I have read is that if the starter battery is not good then charging or replacing it will sort out the problem (depending how knackered it is) but the warning lights may not go off for a few starts stops and so on. Trouble is that I am very reticent to ask my sister to take the car anywhere with it in this state. Will it be OK? She can choose to go uphill from the house rather than downhill. If it was flat on the starter battery then will starting it without moving it reset the lights if all is now OK? Is any damage likely to happen by either driving it or starting it.
     
  4. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    I doubt that a bad 12V battery would be the cause for the hybrid vehicle warning icon to appear in the MFD.

    If you wish to reset whatever DTC had previously been logged, it is only necessary to disconnect the negative terminal of the 12V battery for five minutes, then reconnect.

    In any event, if the car can be driven, then your sister should try driving it on surface streets to see what happens. This won't make the problem worse.

    She should be alert for driveability symptoms: unusual noise, lack of power, gasoline engine failing to shut off when normal, etc. and then report those to you.
     
  5. Mjolinor

    Mjolinor New Member

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    OK, first report battery cell voltages OK at 16.14,.16.15, etc all within 0.02 of each other.

    Fautl code is P3000, car runs OK start fine seems to behave properly.

    Fault code returns immediately if cleared.

    On phone to UK (expensive call)

    Will report more as I get it.

    Anyone anything to suggest?
     
  6. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    DTC P3000 - HV Battery Malfunction. This DTC is reported by the hybrid vehicle ECU. If the battery voltages are indeed even, then it is possible that the traction battery ECU within the battery case is bad.

    If the voltages are being measured when the car is at a standstill, then it is possible that a bad module exists which manifests itself only when the battery is under load.

    What tool is being used to read the DTC and the battery cell voltages, and who is doing all of this work?

    Will the MFD display the traction battery SOC gauge? If yes, then what reading does that gauge show?
     
  7. Mjolinor

    Mjolinor New Member

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    Launch X431 is being used to read it.

    Access to the display is not possible, it is possible to get the display that shows MPG / regenerated power but not the power flow diagram showing hte engine / wheels / generator.

    It is being done by a friend in the UK. Convoluted really, sister driving, friend in passenger seat who is a lecturer in electronics and another friend with a garage and all the gear needed.
     
  8. Mjolinor

    Mjolinor New Member

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    I am back in the UK at the beginning of December and will be there until middle / end January. So really at that time I can rip the thing apart and investigate properly. Of immediate concern is whether the car will be OK to use for the next two weeks given that my parents are 90 years old they get stressed easily and I know my dad will be worrying to death over this problem which, let's face it, is hardly an important thing :)

    SO should I advise them to leave it on the driveway or that it will be OK to nip to the shops and back?

    Is it fairly certain that the fault is either the main battery or the main battery ECU. If so then I will start googling for bits. New are certainly not an option, the car isn't worth it

    I did wonder if it hasn't had the HV battery leak fix and that is the problem then is it possible that Toyota will do something about it?

    As you can tell, I have a head full of what ifs and maybes. :)

    Seems best option for main battery is to find a later one a cobble it together for the gen 1. That sounds like a fun project to be doing over Christmas if I can find a couple of battery packs.

    Bit more info.

    It seems that about a week before this happened the beeper on the reversing sensors went a lot quieter than normal. No idea if that is related or not.
     
  9. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    If the car can be driven, then I suggest that it should be taken on a long drive by your sister or an able-bodied friend who can assess its driveability and reliability for your parents. This routine of driving the car 2 miles at a time is not good for the battery.

    If this were my car I would feel comfortable looking for and installing a salvage battery (which normally would include the battery ECU.) If you can determine that the battery ECU is OK, then the option of buying two 2G batteries is even better since that should be cheaper (due to supply) and a better long-term solution (due to the younger age of the modules.)

    If the problem was due to an electrolyte leak, then DTC P3009 should be logged. The traction battery ECU would report this code.
     
  10. Mjolinor

    Mjolinor New Member

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    Sister and friend are out in it as we speak. Have rung everywhere they may be and typically, sister left her mobile in her handbag at parents house :)

    For sure they have driven it 25 miles right now, 8 from home to friend with garage, 15 to another friend where I know they were going but they had left when I rang and they haven't arrived home yet, tahts another 10 miles.

    Fingers crossed.
     
  11. Mjolinor

    Mjolinor New Member

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    Hmm, 10 phone calls later and much questioning they decided to tell me that the starter battery voltage was 11.3 this morning going up to just over 13 when running. (Groan)

    Sent them out for a new one.

    The car is 91k miles and 7.5 years old. Is the HV battery still under warranty?

    I have only had this car for a year and the service book is some what sketchy for the first 7 years of it's life. How will Toyota view this lack of stamps?
     
  12. Mjolinor

    Mjolinor New Member

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    It seems that the car is under warranty according to the local toyota garage it is 8 years or 100k miles. First registration is 7.5 years, if they use manufacture then it is out but I am sure the warranty will start on first registration.
     
  13. tochatihu

    tochatihu Senior Member

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    In the US, warranty clocks start at the first in-service date which closely coincides with registration date. Unsure if this is the global/international convention.

    Have we not seen in the past some P3000s from leaky cabling? That component ought to be available from salvage dismantlers.
     
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  14. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Lack of timely maintenance should not affect the traction battery. If your engine was burning oil, and you wanted to claim service under the powertrain warranty (which has expired by now, anyway) then you would have a problem.

    Looks like you've hit the hybrid jackpot then, as you should get a new traction battery (or maybe battery ECU) at Toyota's expense.
     
  15. Mjolinor

    Mjolinor New Member

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    Update

    Replaced the small battery with a new one, took a week as no one had one.

    Much Launch reading and testing later.

    Car turned off the small battery voltage is still reading 11.3 with the launch but reads close to 12 with a fluke, it goes up to 14 when the car is running. Seems like a few quid down the pan there :(

    Traction battery cell voltages are all even at around 16 when the battery is off load. On load, both driving hard uphill and stalled in reverse (brakes on, throttle down) all cells drop to 14 volts but remain closely matched.

    The 3000 error code is sitll there and comes back as soon as it is cleared.

    So, no failed cell but 14 volts seems low to me. Need some input on that.

    Input please :)

    I wil get an email with the actual voltage later today I hope.
     
  16. Mjolinor

    Mjolinor New Member

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    OK so, no voltages.

    The extremely specific diagnosis has the results:-

    "The voltages are OK"
    and
    "It's 16 volts ish"

    The paper with the numbers on is nowhere that anyone will own up to, sister / friend both say the other has it.

    I do wonder why they thought I asked for it to be printed out if I didn't actually need it but hey, who am I to question people's reasoning. :confused:
     
  17. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    I assume that the car is at the Toyota dealer now. If DTC P3000 is still being logged and if they can't find a bad battery module pair, then it sounds like the traction battery ECU should be replaced.
     
  18. Mjolinor

    Mjolinor New Member

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    Nope, not at Toyota yet. It will not go there till I go back to the UK on the 9th Dec and find out exactly what is wrong with it.

    Concern now is whether it's OK for my dad to drive and do you think 14 volts, all even is OK for the traction battery under load.

    When I go back on the 9th I will get actual voltages but can my dad use it from now to then?

    Do you think that the ECU reporting 11.3 while the Fluke reads 12 is a point worth noting? To me it says a bad connection between the small battery and it's measuring device (Traction ECU?) but I do not know how accurate these things are expected to be. Certainly I would expect that 11.3 volts being supplied to something electronic that should be 12 to14 would normally leave it not working correctly. Does anyone have an actual ECU reported voltage for this reading from their own car?
     
  19. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    With the NHW11 (2003) parked and staying in "P," I measured using my Graham miniscanner the minimum and maximum module pair voltages with just the ignition on, not a running engine:
    15.57 - minimum (#5 or #7 module pairs were lowest)
    15.72 - maximum (#17 highest)
    Again, leaving the car in "P," I measured by Graham scanner:
    11.7 - Aux battery with ignition on but car not ready
    13.8 - Aux battery within a second after starting car

    My car is using a different battery:
    [​IMG]

    Bob Wilson
     
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  20. Mjolinor

    Mjolinor New Member

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